Side Trips from Delhi
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1. Agra Fort
A succession of Mughal emperors lived within the red sandstone walls of this World Heritage site, and it was from here that they governed the country. As with similar Mughal facilities in Delhi and Lahore, the word "fort" is misleading: the complex is really a fortified palace, containing royal apartments, mosques, assembly halls, a dungeon, and the largest state treasury and mint—the entire cityscape of an imperial capital. A massive wall 2½ km (1½ miles) long and 69 feet high surrounds the fort's roughly triangular shape. With the Yamuna River running at its base, the fort was also protected by a moat and another wall, presenting a daunting barrier to anyone hoping to access the treasures within. The structure was originally a brick fort, and Ibrahim Lodi held it for nine years until he was defeated and killed in the battle of Panipat in 1526. The Mughals captured the fort along with masses of treasure, which included one of the most famous gems in the world, the Koh-i-Noor diamond. The emperor Babur stayed in the fort in the palace of Ibrahim, while Humayun was crowned here in 1530. Emperor Akbar decided to make it his capital when he arrived in Agra in 1558. He rebuilt it with red sandstone from the Barauli area in Rajasthan, and the whole process took eight years. The architecture of the current fort reflects the collective creative brilliance of Akbar, his son Jahangir, and grandson Shah Jahan. The fort's entrance is accessible through the Amar Singh Gate (also called the Lahore Gate, for the city in modern-day Pakistan that it faces). It was named for Amar Singh Rathore, a legendary general who served the Mughals. North of this entrance sits the fort's largest private residence, the Jahangiri Mahal, built by Jahangir as a harem, mainly for his Rajput wives. (Akbar's own palace, closer to the entrance, is in ruins.) Measuring 250 feet by 300 feet, the Jahangiri Mahal juxtaposes jarokhas (balconies) and other elements of Hindu architecture with pointed arches and other Central Asian influences imported by the Mughals. The palace's central court is lined with two-story facades bearing remnants of the rich, gilded decoration that once covered much of the structure. After Jahangir's death in 1628, Shah Jahan assumed the throne and started his own buildings inside the fort, often tearing down those built by his father and grandfather and adding marble decorations (it is said that he was partial to the material). The Anguri Bagh (Grape Arbor) shows the outlines of a geometric garden built around delicate water channels and chutes. The 1637 Khas Mahal (Private Palace) is an early masterpiece of Shah Jahan's craftsmen. The central pavilion, made of white marble, follows the classic Mughal pattern: three arches on each side, five in front, and two turrets rising out of the roof. Of the two flanking pavilions where Shah Jahan's two daughters resided, one is of white marble and was supposedly decorated with gold leaf; the other is made of red stone. The arched roofs of all three pavilions are stone interpretations of the bamboo architecture of Bengal. In one part of the Khas Mahal a staircase leads down to the palace's "air-conditioned" quarters—cool underground rooms that were used in summer. It's famous for its paintings on marble. The octagonal tower of the Mussaman Burj has fine inlay work and a splendid view down the river to the Taj Mahal. This is where Shah Jahan is said to have spent the last seven years of his life, imprisoned by his son Aurangzeb but still able to look out on his greatest monument, the Taj Mahal. He may have built the tower for his wife Mumtaz Mahal (for whom he also built the Taj Mahal). On the northeastern end of the Khas Mahal courtyard stands the Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors), built in 1637 as a bath for the private palace and dressing room for the harem. Each of the two chambers contained a bathing tank fed by marble channels. The emperor received foreign ambassadors and other dignitaries in the Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience), built by Shah Jahan in 1636–37. Outside, the marble throne terrace holds a pair of black and white thrones. The black throne, carved from a single block of marble, overlooks the Yamuna and, according to the inscription, was used by Shah Jahan; the white throne is made of several marble blocks and was his father's seat of power. Both thrones face the Machhi Bhavan, an enclosure of fountains and shallow pools, and a number of imperial offices. To the empire's citizens and to the European emissaries who came to see these powerful monarchs, the most impressive part of the fort was the Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience), set within a large quadrangle. This huge, low structure rests on a 4-foot platform, its nine cusped Mughal arches held up by rows of slender supporting pillars. Here the emperor sat and dispensed justice to his subjects, sitting on the legendary Peacock Throne, now lost. Northeast of the Diwan-i-Khas is the Nagina Masjid, a private mosque raised by Shah Jahan for the women of his harem. Made of white marble and walled in on three sides, it has typical cusped arches, a marble courtyard, and three graceful domes. While in the Nagina Masjid, royal ladies could buy beautiful items from tradesmen who set up a temporary bazaar for them in front of its balcony. Nearby is the lovely Moti Masjid, a perfectly proportioned pearl mosque (moti means pearl) built in white marble by Shah Jahan.
View Tours and ActivitiesYamuna Kinara Rd., Agra, Uttar Pradesh, 282003, IndiaSight Details
Rate Includes: Rs. 550, Daily sunrise–sunset -
2. Boat ride on the Ganges
The quintessential Varanasi experience is a boat ride along the Ganges. The most popular place to hire a boat is at Dashashvamedh Ghat—essentially in the middle of Varanasi, and convenient if you're staying near the water—or at Assi Ghat, the southernmost end of the ghats. It's a good idea to arrange your boat trip the afternoon before, then get up and meet your boatmen early the next morning so that you can be out on the water as the sun comes up. Rates are negotiable, but it should cost about Rs. 125 per person for an hour, or Rs. 500 for a private boat. If you are traveling to Varanasi between July and September, check with the Ministry of Tourism Office first, as boat rides are sometimes prohibited during monsoons for safety reasons. Probably the most popular routes are any that take you past Manikarnika, the main "burning" ghat, though the people and their rituals might be more sightworthy than the ghats themselves. These are some of the landmarks that you'll see along the way. Panchganga Ghat. Down below Aurangzeb's Mosque, this is an important bathing point. It's the mythical meeting place of the five sacred rivers, and images of the river goddesses are displayed here. Aurangzeb's Mosque. The Alamgir Mosque, known as Aurangzeb's Mosque, was built by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb over the remains of the Hindu temple that had previously stood here—when he conquered Banaras, he had ordered the destruction of all temples. The mosque's dramatic vantage point overlooking the Ganges gives it a prominent place on the skyline. The mosque is closed to non-Muslims. Manikarnika Ghat. This is Varanasi's main burning ghat. At the top of Manikarnika's steps is a small, deep pool, or kund, said to have been dug by Vishnu at the dawn of creation and thus to be the first tirtha—literally, "ford," and figuratively a place of sacred bathing. Shiva is said to have lost a jeweled earring (manikarnika) as he trembled in awe before this place, one of the holiest sites in Varanasi. Kashi Vishvanath Temple (Golden Temple). This temple, with its gold-plated spire, is easy to spot on the skyline. It's the most sacred shrine in Varanasi. Chausath Yogini Temple. Just north of Dashashvamedh Ghat, Chausath Yogini is at the top of a particularly steep set of steps by the ghat of the same name. Originally devoted to a Tantric cult that is also associated with an important ruined temple at Khajuraho, it's now dedicated to Kali (the goddess most popular with Bengalis), known here simply as "Ma"—Mother. The worshippers are mainly white-sari-clad widows from Varanasi's Bengali quarter; in the early morning you'll see them coming for the darshan (vision) of Kali after bathing in the Ganges. Dashashvamedh Ghat. This is one of the busiest ghats, and a good starting place for a boat ride. Every evening at sunset the Ganga Arti prayer ceremony is performed here, with the steps filling with priests and people praying. Dhobi Ghat. At this ghat south of Dashashvamedh, dhobis (washer men and women) do early morning laundry by beating it against stones in the river. Durga Temple (aka Monkey Temple). Inland and a short walk from Assi Ghat, it's recognizable by its multitiered spire. On the eastern side of the river you can see the Ramnagar Fort and Palace. Assi Ghat. The southernmost ghat, marking the place where the Assi River and the Ganges meet, has a pipal tree with a lingam.
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India -
3. Dashashvamedh Ghat
At roughly the midway point of Varanasi's ghats, this is a convenient and popular spot, always busy with hawkers and pilgrims, and a good place to hire a boat. It's one of the holiest ghats, the site of ancient sacrificial rite: the name literally means "10-horse sacrifice." Ganga Arti is an arti (prayer ceremony) performed at Dashashvamedh Ghat every night at sunset. Priests clad in saffron and white robes blow conch shells and perform a synchronized ritual with diyas (lamps), flowers, and incense. The steps fill with people singing Vedic hymns, lighting lamps, and praying along with the priests; if you're out on a boat at this time, you can take in the whole scene without having to deal with the crush on the ghat itself.
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India -
4. Itimad-ud-Daulah's Tomb
The empress Nur Jahan (Jahangir's favorite wife) built this small, gorgeous tomb for her father, Mirza Ghiyas Beg (pronounced Baig), a Persian nobleman who became Jahangir's chief minister. Beg was also the grandfather of Mumtaz Mahal, the wife of the emperor Shah Jahan. The monument, one of Agra's loveliest, was supposedly built by workers from Persia. The tomb incorporates a great deal of brown and yellow Persian marble and marks the first use of Persian-style marble inlay in India—both features that would later characterize the style of Shah Jahan. Particularly in its use of intricate marble inlay, this building was a precursor of, and very likely an inspiration for, the Taj Mahal (for this reason it has earned the somewhat goofy nickname of the "Baby Taj"). The roof is arched in the style of Bengali terra-cotta temples, and the minarets are octagonal, much broader than the slender cylinders of the Taj Mahal—in its fine proportions this mausoleum almost equals that masterpiece. Inside, where the elegant decoration continues, the central chamber holds the tombs of Itimad-ud-Daulah and his wife; other relations are buried in adjacent rooms. Most travelers to Agra never see this place, but its beauty and tranquillity are extraordinary, and its well-maintained gardens make it a wonderful place to pause and reflect.
Agra, Uttar Pradesh, IndiaSight Details
Rate Includes: Rs. 210, Daily sunrise–sunset -
5. Kandariya Mahadev
This temple, which lies west of the Lakshmana, is the tallest and most evolved temple in Khajuraho in terms of the blending of architecture and sculpture, and one of the finest in India. Probably built around 1025–50 by King Vidyahara (the greatest of the Chandela kings), it follows the five-shrine design. Its central spire, which towers 102 feet above the platform, is actually made up of 84 subsidiary towers built up in increments. The feeling of ascent is repeated inside, where each succeeding portico rises a step above the previous one, and the inner sanctum is higher still; dedicated to Shiva (Mahadev is another name for Shiva), this inner sanctum houses a marble lingam with a 4-foot circumference. Even the figures on this temple are taller and slimmer than those elsewhere. The rich interior carving includes two beautiful toranas (arched doorways). Outside, three bands of sculpture around the sanctum and transept bring to life a whole galaxy of Hindu gods and goddesses, mithunas, celestial handmaidens, and lions.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
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6. Taj Mahal
The tale of love and loss that supposedly sparked the existence of the Taj Mahal (literally, the "Crown Palace") sometimes seems as incredible as the monument's beauty. It is said that Shah Jahan fell in love with his favorite wife, Arjuman Banu, at first sight, and went on to revere her for her generosity, intelligence, and the 14 children she bore. She became his Mumtaz Mahal (the Exalted of the Palace), and her love for him was apparently just as great—on her deathbed, or so the legend goes, she begged the king to build a monument so beautiful that the world would never forget their love. Five months later, a huge procession brought Mumtaz Mahal's body to Agra, where Shah Jahan began the process of honoring her request. Indeed, it's difficult to imagine a grander gesture throughout history, but the design, execution, and end result is what truly makes the Taj Mahal a must-see. It took 20,000 laborers 17 years (starting in 1632) to complete the vast tomb of white marble on the banks of the Yamuna River, making it the most stunning example of the elaborate aesthetic world that the Mughals created in India. The Taj Mahal stands at the end of a large, four-quartered garden, or charbagh, symbolizing paradise, extending about 1,000 feet in each direction from a small central pool. You enter the grounds through a huge sandstone gateway emblazoned with an inlaid Koranic inscription. Ahead, facing the long reflecting pool, the Taj Mahal stands on two bases, one of sandstone and, above it, a marble platform measuring 313 square feet and worked into a chessboard design. A slender marble minaret stands at each corner of the platform, blending so well into the general composition that it's hard to believe each one is 137 feet tall. The minarets were built at a slight tilt away from the tomb so that, in case of an earthquake, they'd fall away from the building. Facing the Taj Mahal from beneath its platform are two majestic sandstone buildings, a mosque on the left and its mirror image (built purely for symmetry) on the right. Behind the tomb, the Yamuna winds along its broad, sandy bed. The tomb's central archway is deeply recessed, as are the smaller pairs of companion archways along the sides and the beveled corners of the 190-square-foot structure. The Taj Mahal's most extraordinary feature is its onion dome, crowned by a brass finial mounted in a scalloped ornament, which is an inverted Hindu motif of the lotus. The dome uses the Central Asian technique of placing a central inner dome, in this case 81 feet high, inside an outer shell to attain the extraordinary exterior height of 200 feet; between the two is an area nearly the size of the interior hall itself. Raising the dome above the minarets was the builders' great stroke of genius. Large chattras (umbrellalike domes), another feature borrowed from Hindu design, balance the dome. Inside the mausoleum, the changing light creeps softly in through marble screens that have been chiseled like silver filigree. Look closely at the tiny flowers drawn in inlaid semiprecious stones and the detailed stonework on each petal and leaf. The work is so fine that not even a magnifying glass reveals the tiny breaks between stones, yet a single 1-inch flower on the queen's tomb has 60 pieces. Directly under the marble dome lie the tombs of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan, surrounded by a jali (latticed) screen carved from a single block of marble, with a design as intricate as lace. In the center of the enclosure, diminishing rectangles lead up to what looks like a coffin; in fact, both Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan are buried in a crypt below these tombs in deference to the Islamic tradition that no one should walk upon their graves. After his death, Shah Jahan was buried next to his wife by his son Aurangzeb, upsetting the perfect symmetry, most likely a cost-cutting measure that forms an ironic postscript to the munificence of Shah Jahan. But it's fitting that the emperor lies in perpetuity next to his favorite wife. In early morning, the pale rays of the sun give the marble of the Taj Mahal a soft pink luster; at sunset the west side of the monument turns lemon yellow, then pumpkin orange. Once the sun goes down, the marble is pure white against a black sky. The small Taj Mahal Museum stands near the mosque to the left of the Taj. It holds Mughal memorabilia and provides some historical background to the Taj, as well as paintings of the famous couple, manuscripts, letters, and a display of precious stones used in the construction of the Taj.
View Tours and ActivitiesTaj Rd., Agra, Uttar Pradesh, 282001, India562-233–0498Sight Details
Rate Includes: Rs. 1000, Closed Fri. -
7. Adinath Temple
The late-11th-century Adinath Temple, a minor shrine, is set in a small walled compound southeast of the Ghantai temple. Its porch and the statue of the Tirthankara (literally, Ford-Maker, a figure who leads others to liberation) Adinatha are modern additions. Built at the beginning of the Chandelas' decline, this temple is relatively small, but the spire and base are richly carved.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
8. Akbar's Tomb
Akbar's resting place, in what's now the small town of Sikandra, was begun by the emperor himself in 1602 and completed after his death by Jahangir. Topped with white marble and flanked by graceful minarets, this mausoleum of rough red sandstone sits in a typical Mughal garden called a charbagh—four quadrants separated by waterways. The garden, however, is not well tended, and Jat raiders (who invaded Agra after the fall of the Mughal empire) destroyed much of the gold work that once adorned the tomb, though the British partially restored it. In a domed chamber three stories high, the crypt is inscribed with the 99 names of Allah, plus the phrases Allah-o-Akbar (God is great) at the head and Jalla Jalalahu (Great is His glory) at the foot. It's a charming spot to visit; you'll spot many langurs (long-tailed monkeys) and deer in the gardens. Akbar had originally meant this to be the official resting place for the Mughals, but it didn't turn out that way: only two of his daughters are buried here. You can actually see the tomb's enormous gateway, topped with bright tilework, from the train from Delhi—look out the left window 10 or 15 minutes before the train is due to reach Agra.
Sikandra, Uttar Pradesh, 282007, IndiaSight Details
Rate Includes: Rs. 210, Daily sunrise–sunset -
9. Archaeological Museum
Across the street from Matangesvara Temple, this museum displays exquisite carvings and sculptures that archaeologists have recovered from the temple sites. The three galleries attempt to put the works into context, according to the deities they represent.
Main Rd., Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India768-627–2320Sight Details
Rate Includes: Rs. 5, Closed Fri. -
10. Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum
No one interested in Indian art should miss this museum on the campus of Banaras Hindu University. The permanent collection includes brocade textiles, excellent Hindu and Buddhist sculptures, and miniature paintings from the courts of the Mughals and the Hindu princes of the Punjab hills. One sculpture with particular power is a 4th-century Gupta-dynasty frieze depicting Krishna (an incarnation of Vishnu) holding up Mt. Govardhan to protect his pastoral comrades from the rain. Have your car or rickshaw wait for you, as transportation can be hard to find on the university's sprawling campus. It's a good idea to go with a guide, since the upkeep of the museum is a bit haphazard and you might need someone who knows his way around and can turn the lights on.
Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, 221005, India542-230–7621Sight Details
Rate Includes: Rs. 250, Closed Sun. -
11. Bijamandala Temple
As part of continuing explorations since 1999, the largest temple yet—4 meters longer than the Kandariya Mahadeva—has been partially unearthed. On the Bijamandala you can see multiple tiers of beautifully carved moldings and a Shiva lingam placed on a marble pedestal. Images of Vishnu and Brahma have been found as well, and it also houses a lovely image of Saraswati. Archaeologists surmise that the temple, begun in the late 10th or early 11th century and between the Duladeo and the Chaturbhuj, may never have been completed, judging by the remains and unfinished statues found on the site.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
12. Brahma Temple
This granite-and-sandstone temple, one of the earliest here (circa 900), is probably misnamed. Although Brahma is a member of the triad of Hinduism's great gods, along with Shiva and Vishnu, he rarely gets a temple to himself. (The only other famous Brahma Temple is at Pushkar, in Rajasthan.) It differs in design from most of the other temples here, particularly in the combination of materials and the shape of its spire. Nearby is Ninora Tal, one of the largest tanks in Khajuraho.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
13. Chaturbhuj Temple
This small 12th-century temple, nearly 3 km (2 miles) south of Duladeo, is often ignored given its distance from the main complex. It has an attractive colonnade entrance and a feeling of verticality thanks to its single spire. Inside, its impressive four-armed image of Vishnu in a sunken sanctum, may be the single most striking piece of sculpture in Khajuraho. The exterior sculpture here is not nearly as impressive as other examples in the area, but the temple is definitely the best place in Khajuraho to watch the sun set. In the north corner there is a rare image of the goddess Narsimhi, who has a lion's face and a human body.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
14. Chaukhandi Stupa
The first monument you come to in Sarnath, on the left-hand side of Ashoka Marg on the way to the park, is this Buddhist shrine that is believed to have originally been a terraced temple during the Gupta period (the 4th to 6th century). Govardhan, the son of Raja Todarmal (who later became a governor under Akbar's rule), built an octagonal tower to commemorate the visit of Emperor Humayun, the father of Emperor Akbar. The event is recorded in Arabic in a stone tablet above the doorway on the north side.
Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh, India -
15. Chausath Yogini Temple
The oldest temple at Khajuraho is set on a granite outcrop southwest of the Shivsagar Tank, a small artificial lake. It may have been built as early as AD 820. It's dedicated to Kali (a form of the goddess Durga, Slayer of Demons), and its name refers to the 64 (chausath) female ascetics (yogini) who serve this fierce goddess in the Hindu pantheon. A little more than half that number have survived. Unlike its counterparts, which are made of pale, warm-hued sandstone, this temple is made of granite.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
16. Chitragupta Temple
This temple that's just north of the Devi Jagdamba also resembles it in construction. In honor of the presiding deity, the sun god Surya, the temple faces east, and its cell contains a 5-foot-tall image of Surya complete with the chariot and seven horses that carry him across the sky. Surya also appears above the doorway. In the central niche south of the sanctum is an image of Vishnu with 11 heads; his own face is in the center, and the other heads represent his 10 main incarnations. Sculptural scenes of animal combat, royal processions, masons at work, and joyous dances depict the lavish country life of the Chandelas. It also has an ancient three-story stepped tank (water reservoir).
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
17. Dance Festival
In late February or early March, Khajuraho holds an annual, weeklong dance festival, set in part against the backdrop of the temples. This superb event attracts some of the country's best performers. Contact the tourist office for more information.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, India -
18. Devi Jagdamba Temple
This temple was originally dedicated to Vishnu, as indicated by a prominent sculpture over the sanctum's doorway. It now honors Parvati, Shiva's consort, but because her image is black—a color associated with Kali—it's also known as the Kali Temple. From the inside, its three-shrine design makes the temple appear to be shaped like a cross. The third band of sculpture has a series of erotic mithunas, considered some of the finest sculpture of this type in all of Khajuraho. The ceilings are similar to those in the Kandariya Mahadev, and the three-headed, eight-armed statue of Shiva is one of the best cult images in Khajuraho.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India -
19. Dhamekh Stupa
Dappled with geometric and floral ornamentation, the stone-and-brick Dhamekh Stupa is the largest surviving monument in Sarnath, at 143 feet in height and 92 feet in diameter at the base. Built around 500 AD, Dhamekh is thought to mark the place where the Buddha delivered his sermon, though excavations have unearthed the remains of an even earlier stupa of Mauryan bricks of the Gupta period (200 BC). An Ashoka pillar with an edict engraved on it stands near the stupa.
Sarnath, Uttar Pradesh, India -
20. Duladeo Temple
Though built in the customary five-shrine style, this 12th-century temple looks flatter and more massive than most Khajuraho shrines. About 900 yards south of the Eastern Group's Ghantai, it stands near the Khudar rivulet. Probably the last temple built in Khajuraho, the Duladeo lacks the usual ambulatory passage and crowning lotus-shaped finials. Here, too, in this temple dedicated to Shiva, eroticism works its way in, though the amorous figures are discreetly placed.
Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, 471606, India
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