10 Best Sights in Rajasthan, India

Jaisalmer's dazzling 12th-century fort, often likened to an oversized sandcastle, is unquestionably the most charming aspect of an already very charming city. Some 250 feet above the town, on Trikuta Hill, the fort has been inhabited for centuries and is a little town of its own; it's protected by a 30-foot-high wall and has 99 bastions, and several great pols (gateways) jut outward from the battlements. Built of sandstone and extremely brittle, the fort is rumored to be an architectural time bomb, destined to collapse in the face of a particularly aggressive sandstorm---though it's withstood eight centuries. So lovely is this structure that the poet Rabindranath Tagore (1861–1941) was inspired to write the poem Sonar Kila after seeing it; this, in turn, inspired another creative Bengali—Satyajit Ray made a famous film by the same name.

Inside the web of tiny lanes are Jain and Hindu temples, palaces, restaurants, shops, and charming havelis. The fort is very clean and has a sleepy, time-has-stood-still vibe to it. The seven-story Juna Mahal (Old Palace), built around 1500, towers over the other buildings and is now home to the Jaisalmer Fort Palace Museum and Heritage Centre. A visit to the museum is worth the time: enter via the Satiyon ka Pagthiya (Steps of the Satis), where the royal ladies committed sati, self-immolation, when their husbands were slain.

Cars and larger vehicles are not allowed in the fort so you most hire an autorickshaw (Rs. 50--Rs. 100) to take you. The walk up is also pleasant in cool weather.

Outside Jaisalmer proper, on the Ramgarh road, and on the shore of a small artificial lake, this site is home to a collection of picturesque yellowstone cenotaphs (memorial temples) of Jaisalmer's Rajput rulers. There are royal cenotaphs in the overgrown and dusty gardens as well, with canopies under which members of the royal family are buried. Take your shoes off before climbing up to enter a cenotaph. Notice the beautifully carved ceilings and equestrian statues of the former rulers. This is a half-hour excursion and only worth a look if you have time to spare. Make sure you, or the driver of the vehicle you take, knows the way; incorrect signage on this road can lead to unnecessary detours.

Near Gadsisar Lake, this small museum has a collection of artifacts detailing the history of music, culture, and life in the desert, including camel decorations and an interesting opium-mixing box. They host nightly puppet shows during peak season.

Built in the 12th century, this freshwater lake surrounded by numerous golden-hue shrines is frequented by a spectacular and diverse avian community. Entry is through the impressive two-story Tilon ki Ol Gateway. Plan for a picnic and perhaps a short paddleboat excursion on a cool afternoon when the town is not overrun with local tourists including families and children, and bring some bread to feed the catfish.

Within the fort, the Jain temple complex library contains more than 1,000 old manuscripts—some from the 12th century, written on palm leaf, with painted wooden covers—and a collection of Jain, pre-Mughal, and Rajput paintings. Typically open from 8 or 9 am to noon, but, especially in low season, it may be closed even during those hours.

Make sure to visit the seven intricately decorated Jain temples within the fort. They were built from the 12th to 16th centuries, and house thousands of carved deities and dancing figures in mythological settings. The carvings of both the exteriors and the interiors are notable. There are a few rules to observe: photographing some sculptures is not allowed; you'll have to leave any leather items at the gate; food, shoes, and cell phones are not allowed; and menstruating women are asked not to enter the temple. Open 8 am to noon.

Also called Luderwa, Lodarva was once the capital of the state in western Rajasthan ruled by the Bhatti Rajputs. The founder of "new" Jaisalmer, Rawal Jaisal, also of the Bhatti Rajput clan, lived here before shifting his capital to Jaisalmer fort on Trikuta Hill in the 12th century because Lodurva's location on a trade route through the Thar desert made it vulnerable to attack. Lodurva was attacked by both famous Afghan conquerors: Mahmud Ghazni, and later, Muhammad Ghori. The ruins of the former city are of interest to history buffs. The Jain temple complex is known for its nag devta (snake god), a live snake that appears on auspicious days and nights. The snake is worshipped because, as legend goes, it has been protecting this temple for thousands of years. The temples are famous for their graceful architecture and detailed carving. They, too, were ransacked by Ghori and were rebuilt in the 1970s.

Near the Patwon-ki Havelis, this 19th-century haveli was carved by two brothers, each working independently on his own half; the design is remarkably harmonious, though you can spot small differences. You can stop to admire the facade, but the family still lives inside. A good photo-op.

Outside the fort, about 1½ km (1 mile) from the Gopa Chowk entrance, are the Patwon-ki Havelis—literally "five mansions"—a string of connected grand, ornately carved homes built by the Patwa brothers in the 1800s. The Patwas were highly influential Jain merchants who dealt in brocade (although it was rumored that they actually made their money on opium) back when Jaisalmer was an independent principality. The Patwa brothers forbade the repetition of any motifs or designs between their mansions, so each is distinctive. The first of these is arguably the most elaborate and magnificent of all—in addition to exquisitely carved pillars and expansive corridors, one of the apartments in this five-story mansion is painted with beautiful murals.

No trip to Jaisalmer is complete without a visit to this photographer's feast. Although the dunes have become somewhat touristy in recent years, with hawkers of all sorts dotting the sand, their wind-carved ripples still create fantastic mirages, and it's still a magical place to be. Many famous Hindi films were shot here. Expect some amount of heckling from persistent camel owners and girls offering to dance or sing for you, but don't let it put you off staying for the sunset, which is often spectacular.

A peculiar sort of peace descends on the dunes in the late evening, when the icy cold desert wind begins to blow, and this is the most enjoyable part of the dunes experience. Note there are no hotels here, but there are a few permanent camps, for which you need to book in advance; otherwise you must return to Jaisalmer at night. In summer or monsoon the going can be tough---heat, rain, sandstorms---but still try and take in the dunes.