Fodor's Expert Review O:h Cha

Thai can be hard to find in Mumbai, and that makes this restaurant, inside the suddenly bustling Mathuradas Mills Compound in Lower Parel, between Café Zoe and The Barking Deer Brew Pub, such a rare treat. The interior may be a tad on the drab side, since it's buried on the ground of an old factory and office and feels something like a postmodern war bunker, but Thai chef Pipat Niyomsin's food, which pulses with spice, is anything but. The kang kaew waan, a loud Thai green curry, is superb, as is the pad pak si sa hi (a wholesome combination of asparagus, broccoli, and shiitake and chewy snow-ear mushrooms, tossed in soy sauce), and the pla kow nong ma nao (steamed grouper in a blisteringly hot chili–garlic sauce). Reservations are helpful for weekends and Friday meals, and there's a light but tasty prix fixe lunch menu on tap for the office crowd, with Kingfisher beer included.