Hong Kong

They say the only way to get to know a place is to do what the locals do. When in Rome, scoot around on a Vespa and drink espresso. When in Hong Kong, shop. For most people in this city, shopping is a leisure activity, whether that means picking out a four-figure party dress, rifling through bins at an outlet, upgrading a cell phone, or choosing the freshest fish for dinner.

Shopping is so sacred that sales periods are calendar events, and most stores close on just three days a year—Christmas Day and the first two days of Chinese New Year. Imagine that: 362 days of unbridled purchasing. Opening hours are equally conducive to whiling your life away browsing the racks: all shops are open until 7 or 8 pm; many don't close their doors until midnight.

It's true that the days when everything in Hong Kong was mind-bogglingly cheap are over. It is still a tax-free port, so you can get some good deals. But it isn't just about the savings. Sharp contrasts and the sheer variety of experiences available make shopping here very different from back home.

You might find a bargain or two elbowing your way through a chaotic open-air market filled with haggling vendors selling designer knockoffs, the air reeking of the chou tofu ("stinky" tofu) bubbling at a nearby food stand. But then you could find a designer number going for half the usual price in a hushed marble-floor mall, the air scented by the designer fragrances of your fellow shoppers. What's more, in Hong Kong the two extremes are often within spitting distance of each other.

Needless to say, thanks to travelers like you running out of space in their suitcases, Hong Kong does a roaring trade in luggage. No need to feel guilty, though—shopping here is practically cultural research. All you're doing is seeing what local life is really like.

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  • 1. LockCha Tea Shop

    Western

    Beloved by connoisseurs, LockCha Tea House is a peaceful little enclave in the Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware. LockCha has a reputation for brewing high-quality fair-trade teas sourced directly from farmers; happily, it also has a charming retail shop in Sheung Wan, where you can purchase these plus beautiful teapots.

    290B Queen’s Rd. Central, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2805–1360

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Daily 11–7
  • 2. Select 18 and Mido Eyeglasses

    Western

    Across from the sprawling Oolaa restaurant, two of Hong Kong's best vintage hangouts are in one convenient store. Select 18 has everything from typewriters to 1970s Hermès blouses. If you can tear yourself from the heaps of jewelry and handbags, a treasure trove awaits. Tucked in back, you'll find literally thousands of retro-styled specs from Mido Eyeglasses, priced from a couple of hundred to several thousand Hong Kong dollars. The big question: tortoise-shell cat eyes or classic wayfarers?

    18 Bridges St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2858–8803
  • 3. Squarestreet

    Western

    You might stumble upon this local gem while wandering around Sheung Wan's evolving Po Hing Fong neighborhood. Founded and designed by Stockholm native Alexis Holm and watch collector William Cheung, the low-key boutique features slick Scandinavian watches, eyewear, and accessories.

    15 Square St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2362–1086
  • 4. Asia Art Archive

    Western

    The AAA saw it before the rest of us: contemporary Asian art is big. In 2000, the Asian Art Archive set out to address the lack of information on the emerging field and to record its growth. It provides comprehensive research resources through its website, library, and reading facilities, which are open to the public.

    233 Hollywood Rd., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2815–1112

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 5. Chateau Zoobeetle

    Sheung Wan

    As the only international outpost from French leather goods maison Zoobeetle Paris, this stylish Sheung Wan address combines a few of the best things in life: wine, cheese, charcuterie . . . and accessories. Stop in for a glass of Burgundy, then shop for gleaming leather weekenders, ready-to-wear clothes, jewelery, books, wallets, and colorful clutches.

    38 Sai St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    5331–5126
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  • 6. Eu Yan Sang

    Western

    The Sheung Wan area is a quaint and pungent place to shop for traditional Chinese herbs and medicines, but this reliable Asia-wide chain—in operation since 1879—is a more straightforward and sanitized option. There are branches all over Hong Kong, including one past immigration in the airport's Terminal One.

    200 Connaught Rd. Central, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2914–4882
  • 7. Gaffer Ltd

    Western

    The city's first gallery specializing in studio glass has a bilevel backdrop of modern glass sculptures by artists from Southeast Asia, Australia, and the United States. It has also branched out to include a variety of paintings from primarily Chinese-Australian artists—expect everything from watercolors to abstract, pop works to traditional oils. By appointment only.

    13 Western St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2521–1770
  • 8. Grana

    Sheung Wan

    Founded by Pieter Paul Wittgen and Luke Grana, this online-offline fashion company is known for must-have basics made with quality fabrics, such as Peruvian pima cotton, Japanese denim, French linen, and Mongolian cashmere. Head over to The Fitting Room in Central to try on products first-hand, before placing an order online. Grana delivers internationally—a perfect solution for travelers who are fretting over suitcase space. That said, if you want to take home pieces instantly, make your way down to the warehouse in Wong Chuk Hang.

    Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    6013–2118
  • 9. Lee Fung China Ware Co., Ltd.

    Western

    Friendly service and a decent selection of Chinese and western-style dinnerware make this a good one-stop shop. It also carries vases and antique reproductions.

    279 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2524–0630
  • 10. Lee Kung Man Knitting Factory

    Western

    This hole-in-the-wall shop has a surprisingly long history: it dates back to the early 1920s in Guangzhou, where the brand got its start before moving to Hong Kong. Lee Kung Man uses 1950's-era machines to make simple cotton tees and tanks, but the underwear is what brings shoppers flocking in. Despite a loyal hipster following, the store has kept prices relatively affordable, running between about HK$90 and HK$350 per top. Look for the signature cicada logo or the prancing deer at one of the four shops around town.

    111 Wing Lok St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2543–8579
  • 11. PMQ

    Western

    Formerly the Hollywood Road Police Married Quarters, this renovated heritage building now plays host to more than 100 of Hong Kong’s most celebrated indie designers and artists. Weekend night markets—complete with food, drinks, and live music—are one reason to come. You’ll also want to head here for one-of-a-kind items like feminine frocks from Aly & Rachelle, eco-friendly bamboo home ware from Bamboa, edgy clutches and jewelry from Cecilia Ma, quirky Hong Kong–themed accessories from Mail852, and smart menswear from Harrison Wong. Don’t worry if you work up an appetite: there are also excellent restaurants on the premises, including Michelin-starred-chef Jason Atherton’s newest venture, Aberdeen Street Social, which has earned rave reviews for its welcoming two-story space and British-fusion food.

    35 Aberdeen St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2870–2335
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  • 12. Sambag

    Western

    Aussie boutique Sambag touched down in Hong Kong in 2013, bringing its quality leather kicks and colorful summer accessories with it. Find strappy sandals and quality ballet flats in every hue (they’re priced at around HK$1,000 per pair), along with beachy cover-ups, floppy hats, and totes of all sizes.

    6 Po Yan St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2968–1285
  • 13. Sang Woo Loong

    Western

    Born in 1915, Mr. Leung Yau Kam is Hong Kong's oldest lantern maker, and he has refused to move his workshop across the border like all the others. These intricate, handmade works in paper take fantastical forms such as bright-orange goldfish. Their role has changed over his long career from functional to purely decorative, but lanterns are still important in Chinese society. This is especially true during the Mid-Autumn Festival, when children carry their special lanterns outdoors to view the full moon. If you can speak Cantonese—or have mastered charades—ask for one that can pack flat.

    28 Western St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2540–1369
  • 14. Sin Sin Atelier

    Western

    Everything Sin Sin does is dynamic, exciting, and unique. Her conceptual, minimalist clothing, jewelry, and accessories retain a Hong Kong character, while drawing from other influences—especially Indonesian. Garments are inspired by international fashion, and her silver jewelry features beautiful geometric designs that she calls "artsy yet wearable." The multitalented Sin Sin has a fine-art gallery across the street and also performs Cantonese opera in venues such as City Hall.

    52 Sai St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2521–0308

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 15. Sin Sin Fine Art

    Western

    Works by diverse emerging and established artists from Indonesia, Thailand, mainland China, Hong Kong, and other Asian and European countries reveal the aesthetic tastes of lively Hong Kong designer and entrepreneur Sin Sin Man. There are also regular exhibitions and artist talks.

    53–54 Sai St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2858–5072

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 16. Sincere

    Western

    Run by the same family for more than a century, this eclectic department store has several local claims to fame: it was the first store in Hong Kong to give paid days off to employees, the first to hire women in sales positions (beginning with the founder's wife and sister-in-law), and the first to establish a fixed-price policy backed up by the regionally novel idea of issuing receipts. Although you probably won't have heard of its clothing or electronics brands, you might come across a bargain in one of its five locations throughout Hong Kong.

    189 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2544–2688
  • 17. Tào Gallery

    Western

    Unusual old and new objects from around the globe are sold at the Tào Gallery. Look for black-and-white photography and contemporary or rustic art, as well as furniture that conveys an eclectic Asian spirit. Find them near the steps below Man Mo Temple, just off of Hollywood Road.

    13 Circular Pathway, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2805–1112
  • 18. Vivienne Tam

    Western

    You know it when you walk into a Vivienne Tam boutique—the strong Asian-motif prints and modern updates of traditional women's clothing are truly distinct. But don't let the bold, ready-to-wear collections distract you from the very pretty accessories, which include leather handbags and other items with artistic embellishments. Tam, who has seven shops here, is one of the best-known designers in Hong Kong—and, even though she's now based in New York, the city still claims her as its own.

    35 Aberdeen St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2721–1818
  • 19. W.O.A.W.

    Western

    Quirky travel gear, handsome leather goods, hipster accessories: W.O.A.W. (World of Amazing Wonders) stocks an array of smart and stylish items. Started by serial entrepreneur, clothing designer, and all-around cool guy Kevin Poon, this lifestyle concept store promises to surprise you with up-and-coming brands like Native Union (a techy design brand pumping out funky and functional gadgets), plus some staple international picks like Hershel bags and Karen Walker shades.

    11 Gough St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2253–1313
  • 20. Wah Tung China Arts

    Western

    This reliable manufacturer and retailer of predominantly handcrafted ceramics has been in operation since the early days of trade with the West (1863). There are more than 15,000 items on display in the main showroom, and the overwhelmingly large product line includes antique replicas, vases, dinnerware, figurines, and more—all in classic Chinese motifs. You can also visit the shop in the Lee Roy Commercial Building on Hollywood Road.

    7–9 Hill Rd., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2873–2272

    Shop Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.

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