Hong Kong

They say the only way to get to know a place is to do what the locals do. When in Rome, scoot around on a Vespa and drink espresso. When in Hong Kong, shop. For most people in this city, shopping is a leisure activity, whether that means picking out a four-figure party dress, rifling through bins at an outlet, upgrading a cell phone, or choosing the freshest fish for dinner.

Shopping is so sacred that sales periods are calendar events, and most stores close on just three days a year—Christmas Day and the first two days of Chinese New Year. Imagine that: 362 days of unbridled purchasing. Opening hours are equally conducive to whiling your life away browsing the racks: all shops are open until 7 or 8 pm; many don't close their doors until midnight.

It's true that the days when everything in Hong Kong was mind-bogglingly cheap are over. It is still a tax-free port, so you can get some good deals. But it isn't just about the savings. Sharp contrasts and the sheer variety of experiences available make shopping here very different from back home.

You might find a bargain or two elbowing your way through a chaotic open-air market filled with haggling vendors selling designer knockoffs, the air reeking of the chou tofu ("stinky" tofu) bubbling at a nearby food stand. But then you could find a designer number going for half the usual price in a hushed marble-floor mall, the air scented by the designer fragrances of your fellow shoppers. What's more, in Hong Kong the two extremes are often within spitting distance of each other.

Needless to say, thanks to travelers like you running out of space in their suitcases, Hong Kong does a roaring trade in luggage. No need to feel guilty, though—shopping here is practically cultural research. All you're doing is seeing what local life is really like.

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  • 1. Chinese Arts & Crafts

    Central

    Visit this long-established mainland company to blitz through that tiresome list of presents in one fell swoop. It stocks a huge variety of well-priced clothing, porcelain, and giftware. In direct contrast to the thrill of digging through dusty piles at the open-air Jade Market, Chinese Arts & Crafts provides a clean, air-conditioned environment in which to shop for classic jade jewelry—and the prices aren't too outrageous. Other affordable, easily packable items include appliqué tablecloths and cushion covers or silk dressing gowns. There are four branches in Hong Kong, including this spacious shop in Pacific Place.

    88 Queensway, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2523–3933
  • 2. City'super

    Causeway Bay

    Wherever you're from and whatever you're looking for—whether it's fresh oysters from France or quirky products like bottled water for pets—this gourmet supermarket and variety-store chain is the place to begin your search. In addition to edibles, it carries gadgets, inexpensive jewelry, accessories, and cosmetics. The Times Square location often has international-theme food festivals. Be sure to check out the Japanese imported sweets like Royce's unusual chocolate-covered potato chips.

    1 Matheson St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2506–2888
  • 3. Lane Crawford

    Central

    This prestigious western-style department store has been the favorite of local label lovers for years—not bad for a brand that started out as a makeshift provisions shop back in 1850. The massive flagship store in the IFC Mall (one of Hong Kong's four Lane Crawford locations) feels like a monument to fashion's biggest names, with exquisitely designed acres divided up into small gallery-like spaces for each designer. In addition to contemporary clothing, the phenomenal brand list covers everything from beauty to home ware.

    8 Finance St., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2118–3388
  • 4. Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium

    Yau Ma Tei

    This popular purveyor of Chinese goods has 14 stores across Hong Kong, and the flagship one features seven floors laden with everything from clothing and housewares to traditional medicine. The logic behind its layout is hard to fathom, so go with time to rifle around. As well as the predictable tablecloths, silk pajamas, and chopsticks, there are cheap and colorful porcelain sets and offbeat local favorites like mini-massage chairs. The fifth floor has a selection of tea—you can pick up a HK$50 packet of leaves or an antique Yixing teapot stretching into the thousands.

    301–309 Nathan Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    3511–2222
  • 5. Harvey Nichols

    Central

    When this legendary British retailer announced its Hong Kong opening, locals were skeptical, saying nothing would ever live up to the original London store. But Harvey Nicks quickly had them eating their (Philip Treacy) hats with the sheer volume of hypercool labels the store stocks. The menswear section has been a particularly big hit with local celebs, while local tai-tais (ladies who lunch) have declared the fourth-floor restaurant the place for mid-shopping-spree coffee breaks. The flagship store covers 83,000 glorious square feet; and there is a second sprawling location in Admiralty's Pacific Place.

    15 Queen's Rd. Central, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    3695–3388
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  • 6. LCX

    Tsim Sha Tsui

    This spacious store combines local and international fashion, beauty products, and dining under one roof. Clothing brands like American Eagle, French Connection, Jack Wills, and Initial all have their own areas here, as do TonyMoly, Dr.Ci:Labo, Lush, and other cosmetics lines. LCX also has a handful of restaurants, including Gyu-Kaku Japanese and Mou Mou Club.

    2–27 Canton Rd., Kowloon, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2890–5200
  • 7. Marks & Spencer

    Eastern

    Classic, good-quality clothing is what this British retailer has built an empire on—its underwear, in particular, is viewed as a national treasure. Although basics are on the staid side, the newer Per Una, Autograph, and Limited collections are decidedly trendier. Marks & Spencer is also one of the few stores in town to stock a full range of sizes, which includes women's shoes up to a US size 10 and men's up to US size 12. There are branches in many of Hong Kong's malls, the biggest of which is in Cityplaza; most have a British specialty food section, too, with a good range of wines.

    1111 Kings Rd., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2922–7234
  • 8. Sincere

    Western

    Run by the same family for more than a century, this eclectic department store has several local claims to fame: it was the first store in Hong Kong to give paid days off to employees, the first to hire women in sales positions (beginning with the founder's wife and sister-in-law), and the first to establish a fixed-price policy backed up by the regionally novel idea of issuing receipts. Although you probably won't have heard of its clothing or electronics brands, you might come across a bargain in one of its five locations throughout Hong Kong.

    189 Des Voeux Rd. Central, Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2544–2688
  • 9. Sogo

    Causeway Bay

    A lynchpin of the Causeway Bay shopping scene, Japanese brand Sogo's main branch has 16 floors of clothing, housewares, and personal-care items. The selection of street wear, makeup, and accessories is particularly strong, with a dazzling variety of Asian and international labels represented. A vast basement-level grocery store keeps the Japanese expat community happily fed.

    555 Hennessy Rd., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2833–8338
  • 10. Wing On

    Western

    Great values on household appliances, kitchenware, and crockery have made Wing On a favorite with locals on a budget since it opened in 1907. It also stocks clothes, cosmetics, and sportswear—just don't expect to find big brands (or even brands you know). Though prices have risen over time, you can count on rock-bottom clearance deals and an off-the-tourist-trail experience. The main store is in Sheung Wan, but you can also hunt for bargains at Wing On’s four other Hong Kong locations.

    211 Des Voeux Rd., Hong Kong, n/a Hong Kong, Hong Kong
    2852–1888

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