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Bhutan Travel Guide

This Country Is Not Nearly as Conservative as You Think It Is

If you assume Bhutan is a conservative country, you’re not alone. But you’re also not entirely correct.

The kingdom of Bhutan’s resistance to foreign influences, combined with its Buddhist culture and remote location in the eastern Himalayas, earned it a reputation for being isolated and ultra-conservative. Buddhist beliefs and practices are deeply engrained in daily life here, tourists were not permitted until the 1970s, and Bhutan was the last country to legalize the internet. But dig a bit deeper, and you’ll also find innovative policies—plastic bags have been banned since 1999, the law requires at least 60% of the country to be covered in forest, and sustainable tourism is the established standard, not a new trend—that many other nations are only now implementing.

Despite its small size and reserved reputation, Bhutan welcomes guests with warm hospitality and a big, playful personality. And yes, a whole lot of penis imagery.

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Here are some other things you might not know about Bhutan.

You Can Cross the Country on Foot

Given Bhutan’s mountainous terrain, you might assume a 4WD vehicle is required to cross the country. But on the Trans-Bhutan Trail (TBT), it’s now possible to hike all the way from Haa, near the western border with Tibet, to Trashigang, near the eastern border with India. It’s certainly not a walk in the park—you can expect challenging elevation changes, fickle weather, and possible wildlife encounters—but it’s well worth the effort. The 250-mile trail affords access to extraordinary views, historical sites, cultural experiences, and dozens of cities and villages. And the slower pace of traveling on foot means you can savor the experience: stop for lunch in a local home, meditate on a mountaintop, and chat with villagers you meet along the way.

Sunny Fitzgerald

The Trans-Bhutan Trail follows a network of ancient footpaths that was Bhutan’s only communication and trade route—credited with the unification and birth of Bhutan and frequented by traders, monks, soldiers, and messengers—up until the 1960s when the national highway was built. The ease and convenience of paved roads led to the abandonment of the trail. Bridges and stairs collapsed, and the forest reclaimed the path. For nearly 60 years, the once vital route was largely ignored. In 2018, the Bhutan Canada Foundation, the Tourism Council of Bhutan, and His Majesty, the Fifth King of Bhutan, committed to restoring it. With the help of volunteers, scouts, residents, and workers furloughed during the pandemic, they achieved their goal and officially opened the trail to visitors in September 2022.

INSIDER TIPForeigners must be accompanied by a guide. Book a private trek directly with the Trans-Bhutan Trail, or join a small group tour with G Adventures (perfect for solo travelers looking for other adventurous hikers to share the trail with), the official small group partner of the TBT.

A Phallus Here, a Phallus There

In Bhutan, phallus imagery is everywhere—dangling from rearview mirrors, handpainted on homes, shops, and temples—often carefully crafted in great detail, some with hair, wrinkles, and even eyeballs.

In your country, it may be considered distasteful, childish, or even illegal to paint or display this type of imagery. But in Bhutan, it is an expression of Buddhist faith and an effort to ward off evil.

Cannabis Grows Like a Weed

Before foreign influences entered Bhutanese homes with the legalization of television, cannabis was regarded as a weed: harvested in the wild, fed to livestock (yes, a sleepy pig with the munchies means fatty pork for the farmer), and used to make twine and fibers for clothing and archery, the national sport. It’s not uncommon to stumble upon the plant in plain sight—growing in the wild and even popping up along city sidewalks. But its prevalence is not an invitation to partake; although the cannabis plant naturally thrives here, it’s still illegal to consume…unless you’re a farm animal.

A Distinct Identity

Given the proximity to India, China, and Tibet, you might expect to find a lot of similarities in food and culture. Yet, Bhutan has retained much of its unique identity, flavors, and pace of life. Unlike India, for example, where people tend to drive aggressively and traffic can be intense, driving in Bhutan is much more relaxed, and there is not a single traffic light in the whole country. Thimphu is the only capital in the world without a traffic light; instead, police officers are posted up at some intersections to direct oncoming cars.

Chef, founder of Chuniding Food Enterprises, and retired Lieutenant Colonel Kesang Choedon attributes Bhutan’s distinct cultural and culinary identity partly to the combination of natural resources and environmental conditions backed by sound policies and leadership. “Although we are in the same Himalayan belt and there are some similar cuisines and traditions in the region, since ancient times, Bhutan has been renowned for its flora, earning recognition as the “lhojong menjong, land of medicinal plants,” she says. Bhutanese cuisine utilizes local ingredients—some of which have healing properties—that set it apart.

INSIDER TIPChilis are commonly used in Bhutanese dishes. Yet, you may be served food with no spice at all, as some hotels and restaurants dial down the heat for visitors. Let your guide or restaurant staff know if you want to try undiluted Bhutanese flavors.

Bhutan Tourism Council

Viagra From a Caterpillar-Eating Fungus

“Himalayan viagra” is highly sought after. It comes from cordyceps, a fungus that infects the ghost moth caterpillar, and, in a scene worthy of sci-fi, the fungus overtakes and essentially mummifies the caterpillar’s body. These tiny mummies make for some big business; cordyceps are believed to have medicinal properties (including improving sexual virility), command a high price, and have even caused turf wars.

“Cordyceps are expensive because they are rare, have a very high medicinal value, and are in high demand,” Dorji Dhradhul, the Director General of the Department of Tourism, says. Hidden amongst grasses in the remote highlands and only available a few weeks per year, they’re also difficult to harvest. But don’t even think about heading for the hills to search for cordyceps yourself. “Only licensed highland inhabitants can collect and sell them,” Dhradhul says.

Polyandry and Polygamy Are Permitted

In remote areas with difficult living conditions and scarce resources, marrying multiple spouses serves a practical purpose: there are more hands to help with household and animal husbandry duties. And, particularly in the case of fraternal polyandry (marrying multiple brothers), keeping it in the family means keeping property and livestock in the family, too.

As new economic opportunities in remote regions of Bhutan have emerged, including tourism and the harvesting of cordyceps, and people are increasingly moving to larger villages and cities seeking education and work, the need for—and availability of—multiple spouses has declined. The practice has faded but has not completely disappeared; our local G Adventures guide, Dorji Bidha, says you may still find people in extremely remote areas, such as Laya, that continue this custom.

Tech Effects

In 1999, Bhutan became the last country to legalize the internet, and cell phones were not introduced until 2003. But the later adoption of technology did have some advantages—no systems in place meant skipping costly updates (such as copper to fiber). The country is now considered one of the “most wired” in the world, with nearly 100 percent of the population connected by cell phones. You’ll find a tech-enhanced experience on the Trans Bhutan Trail through the app and signposts with QR codes along the route. And, as our guide pointed out, the availability of digital Buddhist prayers and scripts accessible on mobile devices means some monks in Bhutan can be seen studying on their cell phones rather than carting around heavy hard-copy texts.

Ken Spence Photography

Meat on the Menu

You might assume that this Buddhist country is primarily vegetarian. Slaughterhouses are indeed illegal in Bhutan, but meat has made its way onto the menu. Chef Choedon says this is the result of a combination of factors, including the challenging conditions, the presence of livestock for dairy, and the availability of imported meat.

“Although Buddhism promotes vegetarianism, many Bhutanese got into the practice of consuming meat due to the harsh weather, heavy manual work, and difficulty of growing vegetables in winter,” Chef Choedon says. Livestock has long been part of daily life here. “For many years, the Bhutanese have reared domestic animals primarily for cheese, milk, and fieldwork—not for slaughter purposes.”

Historically, meat was only available for consumption when cattle died from accidents or natural deaths or on rare occasions for ceremonial purposes, such as celebrating a bountiful harvest. “On such occasions, the animal would be slaughtered with prayers for its swift rebirth to a higher realm,” Chef Choedon says, “The head of the house, who is usually the mother, would carefully ration out the leftover meat to feed the family until the next bounty was available. It was a traditional practice that was mindfully carried out.”

These days, the availability of imported meat has led to increased consumption, and it’s common to find it served at most meals.

Altars of Alcohol

Bhutan Tourism Council

Although alcohol may be off limits for many practicing Buddhists, in Bhutan, it is widely available—served with meals, infused in desserts, and used for religious practices. “Alcohol has been an important element of the Bhutanese culture. It is accepted for use on important occasions and for spiritual purposes, in addition to being consumed,” Chef Choedon says. Imbibing is also a daily ritual for some. “In the village, the consumption of alcohol after a hard day’s work is a popular choice for a good rest.”

Ask Your Astrologer

In Bhutan, it’s common to consult a trained Buddhist astrologer before making a decision. They use a traditional book of astrology and your personal details, such as name and birthdate, to determine your element, lucky number, which day of the week is best for decision-making, what you were in your previous life, and what you will be in your next life. Travelers can experience this bit of Bhutanese culture with an astrology reading (included on some of G Adventures‘ itineraries) at Pangri Zampa Lhakhang College of Astrology, located a few minutes north of Thimphu.

Something Old, Even When It’s New

In some countries, traditional architecture may be limited to rural areas, historic buildings, and heritage sites. But in Bhutan, even new buildings in the capital city are constructed with respect to tradition. “The government must approve all structures to ensure they meet the basic architectural requirements,” Dhradhul says. “This is to ensure that Bhutan’s rich and beautiful architecture is protected and preserved.”

Ken Spence Photography

HBD to You …and You …and Everyone

Traditionally, individual birthdays were not celebrated; January 1st was when everyone in the country turned a year older. Although the custom of recording and celebrating individual birthdays is common now, there are still many people in Bhutan who consider January 1st as their birthday. “January 1st is the birthday for some or most who are Generation X or born before that,” Dhradhul says. “This could be because there was no proper system of birthday recording before this time.”

You Might Not Need to Pack a Parka

If you’re headed to the Himalayas, you may be tempted to cram a full winter wardrobe into your suitcase. While there are absolutely areas and times of the year when cold-weather clothing is necessary, keep in mind that Bhutan has four seasons, and the climate varies from semitropical to alpine, depending on the altitude. Check the weather forecast for the locations you’ll visit, and plan accordingly.

2 Comments
S
suzQssf January 25, 2023

I was fortunate to teach in Bhutan in 2012.  A little book came out of it - stories of my students' childhood.  The country is changing so very fast.  Please take a look at their work:  Samu-Shamu: The Sonam Stories, Narratives of Childhood in Bhutan.  Charming, interesting, culturally enlightening.

K
kengallaher2240 January 24, 2023

They also teach honest science in the schools.  No global warming denial here.