The Western Cape and Winelands Restaurants

The dining scene ranges from fine South African cuisine complete with silver service to local, laid-back, country-style cooking. Franschhoek restaurants attract some of the country's most innovative chefs, who aren't afraid to experiment with unusual ingredients or food-and-wine combinations, and offer up a very sophisticated dining experience in a gorgeous setting. West Coast fare is not as urban as what you find in the Cape Winelands, and coastal towns usually concentrate on seafood, often served in open-air restaurants. Farther inland the cuisine tends to be less trendy and the portions more generous. Be sure to try some Cape Malay cuisine, characterized by mild, slightly sweet curries and aromatic spices. The only places you're likely to be disappointed in the food are in smaller agricultural towns in the Overberg or up the West Coast, where overcooked veggies and an uninspiring and indistinguishable roast are still the norm. But this is changing from month to month as weary city slickers head out of town to open lovely restaurants serving high-quality food.

Country restaurants tend to serve lunch from noon and dinner from 6, and do not cater to late diners except on weekends. Because these areas rely heavily on tourists and local day-trippers, most restaurants in the Cape Winelands and seaside towns are open on weekends, especially for leisurely Sunday lunches, but may catch their breath on Sunday evenings or quieter Mondays. Dress codes vary as much as the dining experiences. Casual wear is acceptable during the day and at most restaurants in the evening. On the coast people pull shorts and T-shirts over their swimsuits before tucking into a plate of calamari and chips (fries), but some Winelands restaurants like their patrons to look as good as the cuisine they deliver. Even so, a nice pair of jeans or pants and a good shirt are usually enough; jackets and ties are rarely expected. If there's someplace you really want to eat, reserve ahead. In December and January, popular restaurants book up quickly, and reservations are advised at least a day or two in advance.

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  • 1. Muisbosskerm

    $$$$

    For the true flavor of West Coast life, come to this open-air seafood restaurant on the beach south of Lambert's Bay. You'll watch fish cooked over blazing fires, snoek smoked in an old drum covered with burlap, and bread baked in a clay oven. Prepare to eat as much as you can of the fixed-price meal, using your hands or mussel shells as spoons. Be sure to try some of the local specialties like bokkoms (pungent dried fish) and waterblommetjiebredie (water-flower stew). Crayfish cost extra, but don't order them unless you have an enormous appetite. The restaurant consists of nothing more than a circular boma (enclosure) of packed muisbos (a local shrub whose name means "mouse bush") and haphazardly arranged benches and tables.

    Elands Bay Rd., Elands Bay, Western Cape, 8130, South Africa
    027-432–1017

    Known For

    • Fish sizzles on grills and in giant pots
    • You won't find a more laid-back setting
    • It's all-you-can-eat
  • 2. Boschendal Restaurant

    $$$$ | South African

    Reserve well in advance for the buffet lunch here at one of the Cape's most beautiful and historic wineries. A wide selection of soups, quiches, and pâtés prefaces a bewildering array of cold and hot main dishes, including pickled fish, roasts, and imaginative salads; traditional Cape dishes are well prepared. End with an excellent sampling of South African cheeses and preserves or a quintessentially Cape dessert such as malva pudding. Unobtrusive, professional, but friendly service complements the bounty, priced at R260 a head.

    R310, between Franschhoek and Stellenbosch, Groot Drakenstein, Mpumalanga, 7690, South Africa
    021-870–4272

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 3. Geelbek Restaurant

    $$

    In an old homestead dating back to 1761, this is the spot for traditional Cape dishes like fragrant Malay chicken curry, hearty bobotie, and denningsvleis, a Cape Malay lamb stew flavored with tamarind. This is also a great place for tea. The lemon-meringue pie stands a mile high, and the chocolate cake is delicious. You can sit in the garden or on the verandah and watch the weaver birds go crazy in the nearby trees.

    Northern Entrance Rd., Langebaan, Western Cape, 7357, South Africa
    084-406–7434

    Known For

    • Historic setting
    • Traditional cuisine
    • Fish and seafood dishes

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 4. Harvest

    $$ | South African

    La Borie Wine Estate is nestled in the Paarl valley, with Paarl rock as its backdrop. Harvest, the on-site restaurant, offers elegant, relaxed dining for the whole family. You know you're in luck when you go to a restaurant headed up by Matthew Gordon, a fine chef who knows the business inside out. Enjoy an eclectic mix of South African cuisine on the oak-shaded terrace. Ingredients are sourced locally or grown in the restaurant's own garden. Look for free-range organic lamb, mussels, and fresh line fish. The menu also features scrumptious vegetarian options such as grilled large black mushrooms with a parsley crust and brown herb butter. The wine list includes wines from La Borie's own cellars and from KWV Wine Estate. Harvest is the winner of a Klink Award for best restaurant on a wine farm and has been voted among the top-10 most child-friendly restaurants, with a fabulous kids' menu that manages to avoid the tedious and overprocessed options so many other restaurants dish up.

    La Borie Wine Estate, Taillefert St., Paarl North, Paarl, Western Cape, 7646, South Africa
    021-807–3095
  • 5. Oep ve Koep

    $$

    Don't be fooled by the appearance of this tiny rustic bistro with retro garden area. The sensational and ever-changing blackboard menu is the ultimate in fresh, local fare. It features just-caught seafood, foraged plants such as wild spinach, and, occasionally, game meat. Oep ve Koep offers a limited menu, so fussy eaters beware. There is also an on-site bakery where you can pick up fresh bread and delicious South African pastries like koeksisters and milk tart. Reservations recommended.

    St. Augustine Rd., Paternoster, Western Cape, 7381, South Africa
    072-741–3709

    Known For

    • Foraged ingredients
    • Daily menu
    • Fresh fish

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
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  • 6. Olive Terrace Bistro & Lounge Bar

    $$

    At the Tulbagh Hotel, the Olive Terrace Bistro serves local wines and tasty food on a pretty terrace shaded by white karee tree on summer days. In winter there's a cozy indoor dining area with a roaring fire and a view of the snow-covered mountains. The à la carte menu features South African dishes made with locally sourced produce and homemade breads, jams, and chutneys. The menu is fairly broad and has a decent selection for vegetarians and vegans. 

    22 Van der Stel St., Tulbagh, Western Cape, 6820, South Africa
    023-230–0071

    Known For

    • Al fresco dining in warm weather
    • Hearty breakfasts
    • Cozy atmosphere
  • 7. Spek & Bone

    $$$$

    Hidden in the center of town, Spek and Bone is a cozy restaurant with a lush courtyard whose tables and chairs are set under a canopy of vines. The menu focuses on what they call tapas, although they have an international flair rather than a strong Spanish influence. The set menu consists of seven dishes. There is an excellent wine menu to accompany the hearty dishes, featuring award-winners produced at nearby vineyards. This is one of six restaurants from South African celebrity chef and pioneering foodie, Bertus Basson, lovingly named after his two beloved pets.

    84 Dorp St., Stellenbosch, Western Cape, 7600, South Africa
    082-569–8958

    Known For

    • One of South Africa's best-known chefs
    • Asian influences
    • Great wine list

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. and Mon.
  • 8. Waverley Hills Estate

    $$$$ | South African

    If you're looking for a day trip, Waverley Hills Estate is a 20-minute drive from Tulbagh. This 320-acre estate is known for its organic wines with robust fynbos characteristics. As you drive onto the farm, keep a lookout for the ducks that do "snail patrol" through the vineyards. Waverley Hills also produces a range of organic olive products, which can be sampled in the tasting room. The restaurant, with panoramic views of the valley, serves South African–inspired cuisine such as smoked snoek pâte, olive tapenade, black mussels, and pork belly with sweet chili jam. They also offer chicken, hot dogs, and pizza for the little ones. A five-course organic food-and-wine pairing experience costs about R300 per person for either lunch or dinner (reservations essential). The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (twice a week), and picnic baskets can be ordered in advance. Given the dining options on site, this makes for a great day.

    Off the R46, between Tulbagh and Ceres, Wolseley, Western Cape, 6830, South Africa
    023-231–0002

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sat.–Tues. and Thurs.

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