Agdz, at the junction of the Drâa and Tamsift rivers, marks the beginning of the Drâa palmery. A sleepy market town and administrative center, Agdz (pronounced ah-ga-dez) has little to offer at first glance other than the 5,022-foot peak Djebel Kissane and the Kasbah Dar el-Glaoui. But in the palm groves at the edge of town you’ll discover some gorgeous boutique hotels and mini-kasbahs; these make an ideal base for a day or two of hiking and exploring. This is an ideal place to wander through the palmery and get to understand a little about how agriculture works in an oasis. There is also a center specializing in building from natural materials such as clay. From Agdz south to M'hamid, the P31/N9 road follows the river closely except for a 30-km (19-mile) section between the Tinfou Dunes and Tagounite.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.
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