Agdz, at the junction of the Drâa and Tamsift rivers, marks the beginning of the Drâa palmery. A sleepy market town and administrative center, Agdz (pronounced ah-ga-dez) has little to offer at first glance other than the 5,022-foot peak Djebel Kissane and the Kasbah Dar el-Glaoui. But in the palm groves at the edge of town you’ll discover some gorgeous boutique hotels and mini-kasbahs; these make an ideal base for a day or two of hiking and exploring. This is an ideal place to wander through the palmery and get to understand a little about how agriculture works in an oasis. There is also a center specializing in building from natural materials such as clay. From Agdz south to M'hamid, the P31/N9 road follows the river closely except for a 30-km (19-mile) section between the Tinfou Dunes and Tagounite.
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When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.
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