High Atlas
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1. Goundafi Kasbahs
Most of the massive Goundafi Kasbahs, strongholds of the Aït Lahcen family that governed the region until independence in 1956, have long since crumbled away. But just past the small village of Talat-n-Yacoub, look up. A great hulking red kasbah sits at the top of the hill, amid a scene that is today eerily peaceful, with hawks nesting among the scraps of ornately carved plaster and woodwork still clinging to the massive walls. Built as a counterpart to the original Goundafi redoubt in Tagoundaft, the kasbah is a compelling testament to the concentration of power in an era said to be governed "tribally." Locals say the hands of slack workers were sealed into the kasbah's walls during construction. There's usually not a tourist in sight. It's a rocky, although fairly easy, walk up to it. From the kasbah you can see the Tinmel Mosque to the south, across the juncture of the Nfis and Tasaft Rivers. Just southeast are the mines of Tasaft. The Ouanoukrim Massif (the group of big mountains at the center of the High Atlas Mountains) dominates the view to the north.
Marrakesh-Safi, Morocco -
2. Tinmel Mosque
One of only two mosques in the country that non-Muslims may enter (the other is Casablanca's enormous Hassan II mosque), Tinmel sits proudly in the hills and is well worth a visit. Built by Ibn Tumart, the first Almohad, its austere walls in the obscure valley of the Nfis formed the cradle of a formidable superstate and was the birthplace and spiritual capital of the 12th-century Almohad empire. Today the original walls stand firm, enclosing a serene area with row after row of pale brick arches, on a huge scale built to impress. Admission to the mosque is free, but tip the guardian anything between 5 DH and 20 DH and he'll show you around and explain a little of the history.
Tinmel, Marrakesh-Safi, Morocco -
3. Tizi-n-Test
The Tizi-n-Test pass climbs up to a staggering 6,889 feet and provides extraordinary views to the north toward the mountain peaks and south toward the Souss valleys. It's a hair-raising road trip calling for low gears and snail-like speeds, but the views are worth every second.
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