Fodor's Expert Review Dar Kamal Chaoui

Kamal and Bea Chaoui have turned their family home in the tranquil troglodyte village of Bhalil into a delightful B&B with five rooms thoughtfully decorated with local touches—perhaps a donkey pannier or an intricately painted wooden door as a headboard—all with handwoven blankets across the beds. The roof terrace is the perfect spot for breakfast in summer, but the dar stays cozy in cooler months thanks to Kamal’s inventive heating system. Part of Bhalil’s allure is its location in the foothills of Jebel Kandar, and Kamal leads full-day hikes through the mountains from 4-km (2½-mile) walks to serious 28-km (17½-mile) hikes, stopping to eat with locals along the way. You can order a delicious three-course Moroccan dinner at the B&B for 200 DH.