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The heart of East Jerusalem runs through Salah A-Din Street, lined with hummus joints, colorful vegetable shops, fresh juice stands, and a few modest coffee spots. Palestinian students and foreign journalists and aid workers gravitate toward the more upscale eateries.
This upscale hotel is an elegant 19th-century limestone building with cane furniture, Armenian ceramic tiles, and a delightful courtyard. The Mediterranean menu is very good, with twists on local favorites such as avocado-stuffed kubbeh or an Oriental mazza of local salads, as well as tourist-friendly fare that includes the hotel burger and Wiener schnitzel, harkening back to the hotel's German roots. There's nothing quite as delightful as a light lunch or afternoon tea in the cool lobby lounge, at the poolside restaurant, or on the patio under the trees, making for a well-earned break.
On a quiet alley off the main East Jerusalem thoroughfare, this white-tablecloth restaurant in a hotel by the same name has long been popular with journalists, NGO workers, and local families, who flock here for pizzas from the olive-wood-burning brick oven and Palestinian favorites. High wooden ceilings, stone walls, and a simple outdoor garden create a lovely setting perfect for groups of any size. Enjoy a glass of wine or local beer along with the tasty mansaf, a regional lamb dish cooked in yogurt; or the mulukhiya, an earthy vegetarian stew served over rice. Save a little room for the complimentary Arabic sweets and hot tea served at the end of the meal by friendly waiters.
Mo Tahhan opened this cheery café in the space that was once his father's travel agency with the vision of creating a gathering spot as comfy and as fun as your living room at home. Staff often joins patrons for a chat on the bright blue couches and encourages them to add or take from the in-house library stocked with a selection of English-language books. Changing daily specials include maqloubeh, a Palestinian rice and chicken dish, or the bright orange knaffeh, the traditional cheese pastry soaked in syrup, for dessert. Excellent coffee, pastries, Wi-Fi, and in-house printers create a kind of coworking vibe during the day, but the wine list and excellent pastas also attract more serious diners later on.
At this East Jerusalem bistro, the stone walls are hung with local art and antique musical instruments. In summer, you can enjoy your meal on a lovely patio. The menu emphasizes salads—the tabbouleh is a refreshing mix of parsley and cracked wheat—simple pastas, and heavy-hitting meat dishes. The service is efficient and unpretentious, and the well-stocked bar includes local Palestinian Taybeh beer and wine from Bethlehem, along with European imports. Most Thursdays feature live music.
Part coffee shop, part bookstore, this spot has an endless trove of literature exploring the Arab-Israeli conflict from a Palestinian perspective. Take a volume upstairs and peruse it over a lunch of a savory manaqeesh bread topped with thyme and olive oil, freshly made labaneh cheese, or salmon sandwiches. Turkish coffee is brewed fresh on an orange camping stove. Ask about upcoming lectures and movie screenings.
Steps from the Old City, this East Jerusalem landmark has been in business for decades—a thank-you note from President Jimmy Carter proves it. Traditional fare like stuffed carrots and onions, or musakhan chicken cooked in sumac and onions, show Palestinian home cooking at its finest. Starters like the hummus or the eggplant spread are reliably executed. If owner Zuheir Izhiman is around, ask him to share his years of local lore.
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