Cairo

Cairo is big: just how big you'll see on the drive in from the airport, which sometimes takes so long you'll think you're driving to Aswan. And what you see on the way into town, amazingly, is only half of it—Cairo's west-bank sister city, Giza, stretches to the Pyramids, miles from Downtown. But if you are the sort of person who instinctively navigates by compass points, exploring Cairo will be a breeze because the Nile works like a giant north–south needle running through the center of the city. If not, you might find the city bewildering at first.

Taxi drivers generally know only major streets and landmarks, and often pedestrians are unsure of the name of the street they stand on—when they do know, it's as often by the old names as the postindependence ones—but they'll gladly steer you in the wrong direction in an effort to be helpful. Just go with the flow and try to think of every wrong turn as a chance for discovery.

Thankfully, too, you don't have to conquer all of Cairo to get the most out of it. Much of the city was built in the 1960s, and the new areas hold relatively little historical or cultural interest. The older districts, with the exception of Giza's pyramids, are all on the east bank and easily accessible by taxi or Metro. These districts become relatively straightforward targets for a day's exploration on foot.

Old Cairo, on the east bank a couple miles south of most of current-day Cairo, was the city's first district. Just north of it is Fustat, the site of the 7th-century Arab settlement. East of that is the Citadel. North of the Citadel is the medieval walled district of al-Qahira that gave the city its name. It is better known as Islamic Cairo. West of that is the colonial district. Known as Downtown, it is one of several—including Ma'adi, Garden City, Heliopolis, and Zamalek—laid out by Europeans in the 19th and 20th centuries. (The west-bank districts of Mohandiseen and Doqqi, by comparison, have only sprouted up since the revolution in 1952.) The most interesting sights are in the older districts; the newer ones have the highest concentrations of hotels, restaurants, and shops.

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  • 1. Giza Plateau

    Giza

    You've seen Giza's iconic superstructures in books or films, but nothing prepares you for the breathtaking, in-real-life magnetism of the pyramids. The 4th-Dynasty tombs of three Old Kingdom (2687–2181 BC) rulers that dominate the skyline of the desert plateau to the southwest of Cairo simultaneously inspire humility and awe. The largest and most perfect of them is that of King Khufu (Greek name: Cheops), referred to as the Great Pyramid, followed by those of Khafre (Greek name: Chephren) and Menkaure (Greek name: Mycerinus), his son and grandson respectively. There is more than meets the eye at the Giza Plateau: each pyramid was built within a complex consisting of causeways, temples, a subsidiary queen’s pyramid, and a smaller, more symbolic "satellite" pyramid for the king. You can also visit some of the smaller pyramids belonging to female dependents, as well as the mastabas (large trapezoidal tombs) of the kings’ lesser relatives and courtiers—just ask for details when buying your ticket. Preparation is key to visiting the Giza Plateau. The walks are long, and the sun is strong year-round, so wear comfortable shoes, a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Be prepared for numerous encounters with souvenir sellers and animal tenders, some of whom overcharge for their products and services—to them, a firm and repetitive "la shukran" ("no, thank you") will get the message across. Exploring the interior of one of the pyramids should also be part of your once-in-a-lifetime experience, but brace yourself for a bent back and for tackling some very narrow and sloped corridors. There's a general admission ticket to the area as well as individual fees for entering the structures that are open to the public and for accessing the Great Sphinx. The evening Great Sphinx and Pyramids sound-and-light show is on the pricey side, and some say it's not worth the money. Still, seeing the monuments lit up at night would be yet another once-in-a-lifetime experience.

    Giza Plateau, Cairo, Cairo, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: General site admission: LE200. Great Pyramid: LE400. Khafre\'s Pyramid: LE100. Menkaure\'s Pyramid: LE100. Sound-and-light show: LE375.
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  • 2. Great Sphinx Of Giza

    Giza

    Carved from an outcropping of limestone bedrock on the Giza Plateau during the 4th Dynasty, this colossal statue of a recumbent Sphinx—a mythological creature generally having the body of a lion and the face of a human—wears a nemes (traditional headdress of the pharaoh). It also once had the so-called beard of divinity, as can be seen in royal statues in museums, although that has broken off, as has the Sphinx's nose. Egyptologists suggest that its facial features are those of Khafre’s disguised as Ra-Harakhty, a manifestation of the Sun God. Between the Great Sphinx's paws is the Dream Stele erected by the New Kingdom ruler Thutmose IV. It narrates the story of a young Thutmose, who dreamed about an exchange with the Sphinx whereby, in return for the throne of Egypt, he was asked to clear the sand surrounding the statue. Thutmose happily obliged and became a successful ruler of the 18th Dynasty. The interior of the Great Sphinx, which consists of small corridors, is off-limits to visitors. Nevertheless, it's hard to resist the opportunity to examine this enigmatic guardian of the necropolis up close—as well as to snap a selfie with it in the background. Note that although there is an evening Sphinx and Pyramids sound-and-light show, it's on the pricey side and some have reported that, for the money, it's underwhelming. Still, if you want a night-time experience at the monuments, it's something to consider.

    Giza Plateau, Cairo, Cairo, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: General site admission: LE200. Sphinx admission: LE100. Sound-and-light show: LE375.
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  • 3. Workers' Town and Cemetery

    Giza

    In the 1980s, the discovery of the workers' town and cemetery in the southeastern area of the Giza Plateau confirmed that construction of the pyramids was very much an earthly endeavor—requiring the labor of thousands of human beings—and not, as some conspiracy theorists maintain, the result of intervention by otherworldly aliens. The site consists of the Lower Cemetery of the Workers, containing the remains of laborers, bakers, brewers, draftsmen, and the like; the Upper Cemetery, where high-ranking supervisors and their families were interred; and the so-called Lost City of the Pyramid Builders (Heit el-Ghurab). Findings in both the cemeteries and the city—an organized grid of streets with dwellings, storage facilities, and administrative structures—have revealed much about the builders. For instance, archaeologists have determined that although skeletal remains show signs of a life of hard labor, injuries like bone breaks had healed properly, indicating that workers received good medical care. Other findings suggest that workers also had access to both cattle and fish, important sources of protein, and that bread was manufactured on an industrial scale in several large bakeries.

    Giza Plateau, Cairo, Cairo, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: General site admission: LE200. Workers\' Town and Cemetery: LE400.
  • 4. Abu Sir Necropolis

    The first constructed and northernmost of the pyramids in the Abu Sir region, Sahure's Pyramid covers 24 square meters (257 square feet) and is 47 meters (154 feet) tall. It and its surrounding structures comprise a fine example of a 5th-Dynasty royal funerary complex. Alas, this pyramid's poor-quality core masonry collapsed after the Tura limestone casing stones were removed, so it's in rough shape. Its mortuary temple, however, retains some ancient grandeur, with granite pillars, stairs leading to a now nonexistent second floor, and fine basalt pavement. The causeway linking the pyramid and the valley temple was once decorated with finely carved scenes (now removed from the site) showing archery and fighting. There is much less left of the valley temple itself: a pavement, some doorways, and a scattering of fallen blocks. At 32 square meters (344 square feet) and an original height of 70 meters (229 feet), Neferirkare's Pyramid is the site's largest. The complex in which it's set was meant to be larger than that of Sahure, but Neferirkare (2477–2467 BC) died prior to its completion, leaving him with only the pyramid and a mortuary temple that was posthumously finished using mud brick rather than limestone or granite. The causeway and valley temple were usurped, completed, and appended to the 25-square-meter (265-square-foot) Nyuserre's Pyramid belonging to Neferirkare's son, who was pharaoh for 30 years. Although it once stood 52 meters (169 feet) tall, not much is left of this pyramid, as its casing stones were removed, and some of its limestone core was used to create lime in the 19th century. Between the Sahure and Nyuserre pyramids lies the large family Mastaba of Ptahshepses, a vizier and son-in-law of Nyuserre. Although recently closed to the public, check on its status, and visit it if you can. The structure's walls are richly carved with scenes of the vizier's supervisory activities and cargo boats carrying funerary equipment. To the southwest of it is a double room that might have held wooden funerary boats, which were not usually found in tombs of private citizens.

    Abu Sir, Giza, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE80
  • 5. Karanis

    Despite the remains of bathrooms, cooking facilities, and houses, some of which are decorated with frescoes, it's hard to believe that Karanis was once populated by thousands. This Greco-Roman town 25 km (15 miles) north of the city of Fayyum was founded by Ptolemy II's mercenaries in the 3rd century BC. Today, its main attraction is a temple dating from the 1st century BC and dedicated to two crocodile gods, Petesuchs and Pnepheros. At its east entrance, a large square depression is all that's left of the pool that would have been reserved for the sacred creatures. Inside, niches where mummified crocs would have been interred are still visible, as are some wall inscriptions. A small >museum at the entrance to the site displays two of the famed Fayyum portraits—painted funerary masks laid over the faces of linen-covered mummies. The collection also includes statuary, relief fragments, and a few everyday objects, as well as Coptic and Islamic textiles and ceramics. Some items were unearthed here, others were found elsewhere in the Fayyum and Egypt.

    Fayyum Desert Rd., Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE60 for both the site and the museum
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  • 6. Medinet Madi

    Little is known of the town that was originally named Dja and is situated 35 km (22 miles) southwest of the city of Fayyoum. It was founded during the reign of Amenemhat III and Amenemhat IV (1855–1799 BC) and remained extant during the New Kingdom (1550–1077 BC) era, after which it was abandoned. Revived during the Ptolemaic Dynasty and renamed Narmouthis, the town grew and was occupied even after the Muslim conquest of Egypt, before being abandoned once and for all. Because Medinet Madi, the so-called City of the Past, is somewhat is isolated it provides an unmatched intimate experience. You can wander its Middle Kingdom temples, some of them remarkably well preserved, dating from the 12th Dynasty and adorned with hieroglyphic inscriptions.

    Mady Historic City Rd., Fayyum Desert, Faiyum, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE50
  • 7. Memphis Museum

    Set up like a sculpture garden, this predominately open-air museum has a scattered assortment of statuary, coffins, and architectural fragments recovered from the area of Memphis. Highlights include a large Egyptian alabaster sphinx; a sarcophagus that was, curiously, carved upside down; columns with interesting motifs; and several statues of Ramses II (aka, Ramses the Great, 1279–1213 BC), including a colossal limestone version of him inside the museum building. You can view it from ground level and from a balcony that runs above, where you can better see finely carved details like the elaborate dagger at the pharaoh's waist. Stalls selling souvenir replicas of Egyptian artifacts are set up on one side of the garden. Quality varies, but on the whole, you can find some attractive items here.

    Mit Rahineh Rd., Mit Rahineh, Giza, Egypt

    Sight Details

    Rate Includes: LE80

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