Fodor's Expert Review Mosque and Madrasa of Sultan Hassan

Constructed between 1356 and 1363 by the Mamluk ruler Sultan Hassan, this is one of the world's largest Islamic religious buildings. Some historians believe it was partially built with stone from the Pyramids of Giza. Regardless, creating it nearly emptied the vast Mamluk treasury.

You enter the complex at an angle through a tall portal that is itself a work of art. The carving on both sides culminates in a series of stalactites above. A dark and relatively low-ceilinged passageway to the left of the entrance leads to the brightly lit main area—a standard cruciform-plan open court.

Unique to this mosque is a madrasa between each of the four liwans (halls), one for each of the four Sunni schools of jurisprudence, complete with its own courtyard and four stories of rooms for students and teachers. Also unique is the location of the mausoleum behind the qibla wall (wall in the direction of Mecca) which, in effect, forces people who are praying to bow before the tomb of the dead sultan—a fairly heretical idea to devout Muslims. Nevertheless, the mausoleum, which faces Salah al-Din Square, is quite beautiful, particularly in the morning when the rising sun filters through grilled windows.

Of the two tall minarets, only the one to the left of the qibla liwan is structurally sound. Have the custodian take you up to get a view of the city, including the Citadel. In fact, this roof was used by several armies, Bonaparte's expedition included, to shell the mountain fortress.