Getting Oriented in Cairo

Cairo is a large, sprawling city of some 15 million people. The oldest parts of the city are the Coptic quarter (Mari Girgis), the Islamic quarter, and the Citadel. The Downtown area along the river dates from the mid-19th century. Newer-planned areas such as Heliopolis and Mohandiseen are more European in feel and scope. Giza is really a relatively new development, having been built between the pyramids and modern-day Cairo, so that there is scarcely a gap now.

• Islamic Cairo North. The Khan al-Khalili bazaar is the heart of this district, surrounded by exceptional Islamic architecture.
• Islamic Cairo South. Historic mosques, madrasas, and mansions lie in this tightly knit district, where the Museum of Islamic Arts has an excellent collection reflecting Islamic traditions.
• The Citadel. For several centuries Egypt was ruled from this fortress on a rocky boss overlooking the city. Several important mosques lie within or around its sturdy walls.
• Mari Girgis. The Christian heartbeat of the city emanates from the Coptic churches and monasteries here. The Coptic Museum reveals the long history of Christianity in Egypt.
• Downtown Cairo and Bulaq. The epicenter of the city, with major hotels, shopping malls, and the not-to-be-missed Egyptian Antiquities Museum.
• Rodah Island and Garden City. Home to a thriving expat community in the 19th and early 20th centuries, these districts now have period mansions and a selection of upmarket hotels.
• Zamalek and Gezira. Occupying the Nile's largest island, these two districts are relatively quiet enclaves in the heart of the city, home to elegant apartment blocks, independent boutiques, and neighborhood restaurants.
• Mohandiseen. This modern commercial district is buzzing with offices, shops, and eateries for every budget.
• Ma'adi. A preplanned district laid out in the early 20th century, this is the least densely populated part of Cairo.
• Giza. Location of the Pyramids and the Sphinx, the Giza plateau was once isolated from Cairo but is now caught in the embrace of its growing suburbs.
• Heliopolis. A planned expansion northeast of the city center has modern shopping malls and hotels as well as the airport.