A look at the artisans behind a rich cultural heritage and a coveted international good.
The textile craft of Kashmir, the disputed region that hugs India and Pakistan, is woven deep into the valley’s cultural heritage–a rich legacy of tapestry that was imported from Persia in the latter half of the 15th century. Over the centuries, Kashmir carpets and shawls have borne testimonies of extraordinary artistry, with their meticulous geometric and calligraphic designs. The beauty lies in the detailed needlework, a skill handed down by generations of weavers.
The art flourished during the Mughal period that lasted into the 18th century. The tradition continued even during the troubles that followed under the rule of the Afghans and Sikhs. The British arrived in the early part of the 19th century and commercialized the woven products. And soon Kashmiri carpets and shawls became known across the globe.
But sadly, this art is dying a slow death. Problems began in 1989 when the valley was embroiled with insurgency operations, and a long-drawn-out conflict between the Indian armed forces and militant outfits has continued ever since, with brief interludes of peace. As a result, many artisans fled from the valley. The industry has been plagued with other social and economic problems: the cost of quality wool has become prohibitively expensive, the market is flooded with counterfeit products churned out of power looms, and the younger generation of the valley has been generally uninterested in pursuing a career in weaving due to its low pay.
Despite all of this, Kashmir exported roughly $125 million worth of handicrafts since 2019. But the pandemic has once again jeopardized the future of this ancient craft. In an effort to boost spending, state-run councils have been assisting local artisans with participation in virtual fairs and trade shows.