jgarvey

Rather than writing a lengthy and extensive trip report, just posting to invite questions and advice about living on a boat and cruising (bareboating) with DH, friends, and family around the BVI for two weeks.

We own a catamaran which has permanent anchorage in Road Town on Tortola. I have been on boat and land down there for the past four years many times and would be happy to answer any questions or offer my experience in any way that would be helpful to other travelers with this particular interest.

Living on a sailboat for two weeks is a totally different experience from staying in a villa or resort, so if this is the area of your interest perhaps I can be of some assistance. Please ask your questions. Four years ago I was a total novice to this way of life. Now I feel that I have accumulated enough experience to be a resource to others.

I have received so much assistance from this forum on my upcoming trip to Rome, I would just like to give something back. Please feel free to ask me anything about living on a boat in the BVI. jg

MIM04

jg- I think that chartering in the BVI was one of my best trips. It is really hard to compare. I loved it, sleeping on the boat, waking up early sitting on deck drinking coffee and watching the sun come up. You are right its a totally different vacation from a villa or resort. I loved being able to go somewhere new everyday, but on your own schedule. We snorkeled at Norman Island which was a magical day, something I will never forget! Glad it was good.

When do you go to Rome (or have you gone already) We go to Italy in June and have received a lot of help from the Europe fodors board as well.

jgarvey

MIM, thanks for confirming what I already know and that few have experienced. I must confess that I am a bit of a Woos (sp?) who loves my creature comforts, doesn't like water all that much, and used to prefer posh resorts. Now I am a convert, but I must confess it did take a while to learn to love this life style. Each time I go I like it more and more, for all of the reasons that you described in your message. Plus--it's very good for my marriage to learn to love the same things that make my DH so happy.

Norman Island is my favorite anchorage, and my now we have been to them all. It was the first anchorage that we ever stopped at several years ago when these adventures started. We also like Pirates Bar and Restaurant, which you may recall used to be Billy Bones. When we first started going down there, we got to know the woman who was the grand daughter of the original owner of the island, which I believe he bought for about 125 pounds. Now she has sold it for millions to some new developers. I just hope that they don't turn the island into some mega all-inclusive and spoil the natural beauty. Ah, this is the way it always goes. "Pave Paradise, put up another glam resort."

Good to talk to you about a mutual interest. It was very hard to return to Chicago this week and face the snow and single-digit weather, after two weeks on the boat in the Caribbean.

My DH keeps trying to seduce me into spending more and more time down there on the boat and maybe even get involved in some serious cruising down island for months at a time. But I am not quite ready for that kind of commitment, plus I am really worthless as first mate.

Let's chat again and share with others our love for the BVI.

MIM04

jg - I know what you mean, about the creature comforts. I was not sure about the whole thing myself, but once you get "into" it I think it all works out and you don't mind certain things. Being able to jump off the boat into the water anytime you want was heaven for me. I am so glad you found something you and DH both can enjoy. It would be amazing to live on a boat for several months, but I understand it being an adjustment.
We also chartered in St Martin, but that was not as enjoyable as the BVI. Plus the seas were rougher and it made for some queazy days. But being able to take the dinghy ashore for dinner and making reservations over the VHF for dinner, and having our trash picked up at various locations, just so cool I thought. Plus going to dinner places that you really cannot get to, (or cannot get to easily) except by boat. Its an amazing experience. I hope to do it again once my DD is a little bit older.
Nice to "chat" with you. I hope you have a wonderful (next) trip BVI or Italy...

jgarvey

Dear MIM, thanks for the feedback. You are so right-on about all of the positives about bareboating and living free in the BVI, if you have a good captain and crew who know what they are doing to make you feel safe and secure. Since my captain is also my DH, and a very experienced sailor, all is fine in this department.

For the benefit of other readers here, I will reiterate the positives:
--A total sense of freedom in how you use your time and choose your destination every day.
--Short sails from island to island. You anchor, jump immediately into the beautiful water to cool off, pour the rum punches and just chill and chill and chill.
--Use the radio, as you suggested, make a reservation at a lovely dinner restaurant on "your beach", enjoy a light lunch on the boat.
--Swim and snorkel some more, return to boat, shower off on the back of the boat, have another rum punch, retreat to cabin or trampoline with a good book or your sweetie, take a nap.
--Take another dip in the beautiful water if you like, shower off again, have another drink and get ready for dinner.
--Get into dinghy and putter ashore to lovely restaurant for great dinnder of conch fritters and mahi-mahi.
--Dinghy back to boat, have another cocktail, go to cabin early (you will be tired) and sleep as you have never slept before--lulled by the gentle (most of the time) rocking of the boat and the lapping of gentle waters (most of the time).
--Wake up close to dawn, make a great pot of coffee, watch the sunrise, greet your fellow sailors as they arise and come top deck to discuss the plans for the day.
--Pull on swimsuit and go for a morning swim around the boat.
--Rinse off salt water on the back of the boat.
--Enjoy a light and easy breakfast of granola, fruit, and yogurt, PBJ sandwich on wheat, or scrambled eggs if someone feels ambitious (not me).
--Lean back and say, "Thank God! Life is beautiful!"

OK, enough of that. Later post will add the details of the harsh realities of life on a boat, that you will begin to gladly accept in exchange for all of the above.

Hope you enjoyed this summary and that it reflects your own feelings. I hope other readers will be inspired. jg

--Wake up early

owa

jgarvey, I just posted a request for suggestions for our family of ten in August. Is it possible to have a boat with A/C, and a crew that does the cooking? Thanks, Owa

MIM04

jg - yes you are right on. I think it is the freedom that people enjoy so much being on a boat. It is such a great feeling just being out there on the sea. And such a different experience than being on land
I cannot wait until my DD is a little older that I feel comfortable taking her. I was on boats from a very very young age, but with my own DD I think it will have to wait. BUT I am really anxious to do it again. I hope you are able to again soon!

MIM04

OWA - I am sure that jg will respond with great advice about this , but in the meantime yes all of this is possible and it is a wonderful trip! Impossible to compare it to anything else. One co. we have chartered from a few times is the Moorings out of Tortola. We have also used Sunsail out of SXM.

jgarvey

Dear owa, sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings, but there is no way that 10 people can fit comfortably for daily living on a sailboat--even if it is a catamaran like ours, especially if you also have a live-aboard captain and/or crew who does the sailing and cooking for you. First off, there are only four cabins on a catamaran, each of which sleeps only two people comfortably. At the max, that is only eight people if you do all of your own sailing and cooking and cleaning up afterwards. If there is a captain and/or cook aboard living as well--he (they, maybe husband and wife) will need their own cabin as well; then this leaves sleeping room for only 6 other people. Maybe (only a maybe) 3 very small children could be in one cabin together, but I don't recommend this for peace and harmony of all involved.

As for air conditioning on this sort of sail, fagettaboutit! I have been there in August, and you really don't need AC on the boat even then. Each cabin will have at least two hatches, and a "breeze booster" added on will add more than enough lovely air to blow through the cabins at night. Occasionally a gentle rain may necessitate the closing of the hatches, but in the BVI those generally last only for a few minutes. I almost always sleep with a top sheet and have occasionally had to pull up the blanket. On my first trip to the BVI several years ago, we rented a luxury motor boat (only two cabins, though) with A/C and never turned it on even once. Nothing feels or sounds better at night than the whisper of real breezes from the Caribbean Sea and gentle waters lapping at the sides of the boat.

Since I have experience only with our catamaran, I really don't know what to suggest for your group/family of 10 people. Perhaps you could look at some of the Windjammer-type of cruisers that give you a taste of the genuine sailing experience but also provide the room for your group and the type of catering that would be such a nice touch.

Good luck with your choices. If I can help some more by telling you specific details about the islands, especially about Tortola and Cane Garden Bay, please write again.

If you do choose to sail with your family, I promise that it will transform your life. jg

marbleheadguy

A family of 10 on a sailboat--OK Owa...I assume you can afford

These folks can handle you:

http://www.swainsailing.com/family_charters.asp

owa

Thanks, MIM04 and jgarvey for your replies. My husband and I will be on Tortola for 4 nights in May before going to VG for a week. Jgarvey, does your husband do day trips from Tortola? Thanks, Owa

jgarvey

Owa, sorry to say that my husband and I use our boat only for personal and family excursions. The rest of the time the boat is with a charter base for private rentals. He has been down there for 7 weeks (returning on Wednesday), and I was down there for two weeks with him from Jan. 10-24th. The best sail of my life so far, since I am now retired from teaching and was able to escape the Chicago winter for those glorious two weeks. It is the first time I just absolutely did not want to come back. As I said before, this way of life has taken some time to grow on me.

About your 4 days on Tortola: Have you made any plans yet for that time or are you still seeking advice. As I said, I am a fountainhead about info on Tortola. What sort of experience are you seeking (luxury or authentic rustic, pricey or budget?) and what activities are you looking for while there? Let me know if you would like to have some suggestions about where to stay, where to eat, and what to do while on Tortola. Also, will you be renting a car or not? I can also tell you a LOT about what that is like if you want some real hair-raising, Disney-ride type of adventures.

I know you are in for the time of your lives in the BVI. If this is your first visit, you will never be the same. jg

jgarvey

MIM--how old is your daughter now? Perhaps this is really not something you have to put off for too long. We have had friends who have bareboated with an infant and toddlers. You have to be fairly experienced and know what you are doing, but it is possible. jg

Callaloo

Owa, there may very well be a boat that can accomodate your group of 10, but it won't be a "conventional" charter boat. The standard options typically fit 8 guests and 2 crew at most. For your needs, I would suggest using a charter broker who represents independent boats. Reputable brokers (who do their work at no charge to you) include Sherry Yates (www.yatesyachts.com) and Ed Hamilton (www.ed-hamilton.com). A quick look at Sherry Yates' site shows a number of crewed options that accomodate 10 or more guests.

There's nothing quite like a sailing vacation -- I've got my next one coming up in a matter of days (aboard a 72 foot racing machine in St. Martin)...

owa

Thanks Callaloo, Do you know anything about Promenade sail/dive cruises? They look wonderful on their web site. I want a crew that does everything. Do you think it would get to long for the teens? Owa

MIM04

jg - She is 2 and I know for many people that is OK. I was on boats much younger thant that. However, for me I just cannot see doing it until she is a little bit older. She is one who would get up in the middle of the night and sneak out of the cabin! :0

Callaloo

Owa, I'm not familiar with Promenade. (It sure does look alluring, though...). Posting your query on the BVI Board at www.traveltalkonline.com is your best bet for getting a response.

cris2

Hi jg - I just have a few questions.

We're going to the BVI's in about 2 weeks - my in-laws are chartering a sailboat and taking my husband, myself and my sister-in-law and her boyfriend. We've sailed and stayed on their boat in Annapolis many times (although not for an entire week), so I'm familiar with some of the less glamourous aspects of sailboat living1

One question I have is how rough the water gets -I rarely get seasick, but if the water gets really choppy, I do feel pretty queasy. Just wondering!

Do you have any especially memorable anchorages to recommend?

Also, not necessarily sailboat related, but do you have any suggestions for romantic restaurants? My husband and I are taking a night on our own and would like to have a romantic dinner somewhere on the beach or water. I've found a few, but thought I'd see if anyone had any specific recommendations. Any island would be fine, as we're not sure of our itinerary yet.

Thank you so much!

Crista

jgarvey

Dear Crista, you are going to have a wonderful time, especially if this is your first time in the BVI. It is, afterall, known as the "Sailor's Paradise." It will be a sailing experience like no other you have ever had, I promise.

Before I continue with my tips for anchorages, restaurants, etc., I need to get more info from you in order to better answer your questions. First, what type of sailboat is it, how large? Will you be bareboating or will there be crew aboard? Does the captain (your Dad?) have any previous experience sailing in the waters of the BVI? Will you be snorkling and or doing any scuba diving? How long will you be sailing, and will you also be staying any nights in accommodations on land?

Just provide a little more info about your trip, and I will get back to you ASAP.

I was down there for 2 weeks (Jan 10--24) and my DH gets back tonight from his 7-week adventure. Each time I go I learn more about how to adapt to life at sea and learn to love it more and more. Back to you soon. jg

cris2

Hi jg,

We are chartering from Moorings, a 44 foot boat (Darfour 44, I think?). There are 3 staterooms and 2 heads. We are, indeed, bareboating it - my father-in-law has been sailing for over 20 years, and the rest of us have been his "crew" many times! My husband and I go down several weekends during the summer to race with them in Annapolis. Racing's great fun, at least when you have wind!

In-laws were sailing in the BVI's about 10 years ago with friends for a race week, and they simply loved it.

I hope to do some snorkeling, although I've never done it before! I'd also like to try horseback riding. Not sure about scuba diving, at least for me.

We'll be gone a week, and we will only be staying on land the first night, when we arrive.

I am really looking forward to the trip, as it's been a pretty rough year for both our families, and it will great to just relax!

Thank you again for your suggestions!
Crista