Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid
May 4th, 2024, 02:45 AM
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ekscrunchy,
During our escapade to Sacramenia with lunch at the butcher shop, we stayed in tiny Sebúlcor so that we could explore this gorgeous Las Hoces del Duratón gorge, make the hike down to the Ermita de San Frutos, with its fabulous setting atop the gorge, and also to make the pilgrimage to the other lamb temples in Sepúlveda, where at late Tinín the owner (died in 2022 at the age of 84) thought I was a relative of a locally famous bullfighter (same last name). There we called ahead for reservations, and Tinín told us what time to arrive (we didn't choose), as he staggered his roasting, and we arrived when our lamb was ready. Very basic but delicious meal---roast lamb, typical Castilian bread (pan de pueblo) and a huge platter of lettuce and tomato salad.
Sepúlveda is slightly closer to Sacramenia, but neither town has any really noteworthy lodging choices, nothing, of course, like the magnificent Abadía Retuerta.
You´ll find delicious roast baby lamb in Navarra (their own breed of cordero lechal) and in La Rioja.
During our escapade to Sacramenia with lunch at the butcher shop, we stayed in tiny Sebúlcor so that we could explore this gorgeous Las Hoces del Duratón gorge, make the hike down to the Ermita de San Frutos, with its fabulous setting atop the gorge, and also to make the pilgrimage to the other lamb temples in Sepúlveda, where at late Tinín the owner (died in 2022 at the age of 84) thought I was a relative of a locally famous bullfighter (same last name). There we called ahead for reservations, and Tinín told us what time to arrive (we didn't choose), as he staggered his roasting, and we arrived when our lamb was ready. Very basic but delicious meal---roast lamb, typical Castilian bread (pan de pueblo) and a huge platter of lettuce and tomato salad.
Sepúlveda is slightly closer to Sacramenia, but neither town has any really noteworthy lodging choices, nothing, of course, like the magnificent Abadía Retuerta.
You´ll find delicious roast baby lamb in Navarra (their own breed of cordero lechal) and in La Rioja.
May 4th, 2024, 04:34 AM
#482
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About Córdoba in the month of May,
This is the first weekend of the patio festival and in the first 2 days of this year's festival the patios have received 145,000 visitors.
63 patios are open (52 are part of the yearly contest, the rest, not private dwellings) in 6 different routes.
It runs this year from May 2-12.
The patios are open from 11 am-2 pm, then in the afternoon, from 6-10 (may be a better time to visit when it’s a bit cooler and less jammed).
It’s 26C in the city today, but on the last day it’s projected to warm up to 30C.
The crowds in the San Basilio quarter have been huge.
During the patio festival, the home and atelier of native son, portrait painter Julio Romero de Torres, will be open, in addition to the museum, to celebrate the 150th anniversary of his birth. One of his most acclaimed portraits, La Chiquita Piconera, will be displayed in Madrid at the Thyssen in room 45 starting Monday and until July 28.
This is the first weekend of the patio festival and in the first 2 days of this year's festival the patios have received 145,000 visitors.
63 patios are open (52 are part of the yearly contest, the rest, not private dwellings) in 6 different routes.
It runs this year from May 2-12.
The patios are open from 11 am-2 pm, then in the afternoon, from 6-10 (may be a better time to visit when it’s a bit cooler and less jammed).
It’s 26C in the city today, but on the last day it’s projected to warm up to 30C.
The crowds in the San Basilio quarter have been huge.
During the patio festival, the home and atelier of native son, portrait painter Julio Romero de Torres, will be open, in addition to the museum, to celebrate the 150th anniversary of his birth. One of his most acclaimed portraits, La Chiquita Piconera, will be displayed in Madrid at the Thyssen in room 45 starting Monday and until July 28.
May 4th, 2024, 05:51 AM
#483
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Maribel you have just solved a mystery that has been plaguing me!
I first "got to know you" here when I read about Pedraza prior to a trip there. And I remember your comments about eating lamb in a butcher shop!!! I was overjoyed to read about that experience, and from then on I probably never missed a word you wrote here and elsewhere.
I kept going back in my mind to where that butcher shop could have been and I tried to search for it with no luck...so know I have my answer:
ASADOR MARIBEL!!!!
I do remember that we went into a hotel in Sepulveda just to take a peek into the lobby and it seemed pretty nice.....but I guess we are going so far off the topic here. My next trip to Spain will be next week, as you know, and then hopefully Valancia/Denia near Thanksgiving.
But of course I am overjoyed about returning to Andalucia in March, with someplace else before...Jaen, lechazo??? I will start a thread on that after I write the Galicia/Lanzarote report.
I first "got to know you" here when I read about Pedraza prior to a trip there. And I remember your comments about eating lamb in a butcher shop!!! I was overjoyed to read about that experience, and from then on I probably never missed a word you wrote here and elsewhere.
I kept going back in my mind to where that butcher shop could have been and I tried to search for it with no luck...so know I have my answer:
ASADOR MARIBEL!!!!
I do remember that we went into a hotel in Sepulveda just to take a peek into the lobby and it seemed pretty nice.....but I guess we are going so far off the topic here. My next trip to Spain will be next week, as you know, and then hopefully Valancia/Denia near Thanksgiving.
But of course I am overjoyed about returning to Andalucia in March, with someplace else before...Jaen, lechazo??? I will start a thread on that after I write the Galicia/Lanzarote report.
May 4th, 2024, 06:11 AM
#484
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Yipes! Your trip to Galicia and Lanzarote is coming up sooooo soon! I wish you beautiful weather!
In Sebúlcor we stayed at the Hotel Las Hoces del Duratón, which had an interesting rustic-chic décor, but it gets some "so so" reviews these days.
The provincial hotels in that area of Segovia are very inexpensive.
The "chic" lodging / restaurant these days in Pedraza is run by the famous caterer and judge of Master Chef, Samantha Vallejo Nágera, who took the old bar of Don Mariano on the Plaza Mayor and turned in into a rustic chic whole house rental, Casa Taberna with restaurant that attracts well heeled madrileño families on the weekends.
The Hospedería de Santo Domingo there is still a lovely retreat. I remember you stayed there.
In Sebúlcor we stayed at the Hotel Las Hoces del Duratón, which had an interesting rustic-chic décor, but it gets some "so so" reviews these days.
The provincial hotels in that area of Segovia are very inexpensive.
The "chic" lodging / restaurant these days in Pedraza is run by the famous caterer and judge of Master Chef, Samantha Vallejo Nágera, who took the old bar of Don Mariano on the Plaza Mayor and turned in into a rustic chic whole house rental, Casa Taberna with restaurant that attracts well heeled madrileño families on the weekends.
The Hospedería de Santo Domingo there is still a lovely retreat. I remember you stayed there.
Last edited by Maribel; May 4th, 2024 at 06:32 AM.
May 4th, 2024, 06:38 AM
#485
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Yes, we stayed there because you recommended it and we loved it, with the views of the huge storks outside the window!
And at the end of the trip (those days we could only take 7 nights) we drove right to the airport to fly back to the USA. It's an easy drive and a good place to know about for anyone looking for a last night in Spain.
The hotel we looked at Sepulveda seemed nice, HOSTARIA DE LOS TEMPLARIOS.
Is Sepulveda still considered a lechazo mecca where one can find lamb on the level of Mannix, even if the dinings room are plain?
When we dined at Tinin I thought it was one of the best, most enjoyable eating experiences...
And at the end of the trip (those days we could only take 7 nights) we drove right to the airport to fly back to the USA. It's an easy drive and a good place to know about for anyone looking for a last night in Spain.
The hotel we looked at Sepulveda seemed nice, HOSTARIA DE LOS TEMPLARIOS.
Is Sepulveda still considered a lechazo mecca where one can find lamb on the level of Mannix, even if the dinings room are plain?
When we dined at Tinin I thought it was one of the best, most enjoyable eating experiences...
Last edited by ekscrunchy; May 4th, 2024 at 06:40 AM.
May 4th, 2024, 06:43 AM
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Yes, we saw it as well and it would be a better bet than our place in Sebúlcor.
We stayed at the Hospedería as well for our friends´ last night in Spain and drove them to the airport the next morning for their flight home to PHL. If one has a late morning or early afternoon flight, it's only about an hour 15 min drive from T4. And Suite 33 is THE room.
And the storks! Ours have arrived on our town hall chimney.
We stayed at the Hospedería as well for our friends´ last night in Spain and drove them to the airport the next morning for their flight home to PHL. If one has a late morning or early afternoon flight, it's only about an hour 15 min drive from T4. And Suite 33 is THE room.
And the storks! Ours have arrived on our town hall chimney.
Last edited by Maribel; May 4th, 2024 at 06:46 AM.
May 4th, 2024, 09:22 AM
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The storks have arrived in Madrid??
We still often speak about them (we call them "storkies," and I remember that they were also nesting at ABADIA DE LA RETUERTA.
We had, I think, a 4pm Iberia flight MAD-JFL and that worked out so well; with such a late flight, there are so many options outside the city of Madrid, that some people might prefer. But I don't know if there is still flight leaving Madrid at that time. Four pm is a great time to depart...the entire morning. I remember being annoyed, though, that we did not have time for lunch at an Asadores that w spotted in Pedraza. Speaking of that, El Yantar, which gave us such a memorable lunch, seems to be closed.
You've gotten me very curious about the SANTO MAURO. Their online rates (I looked only briefly) seem to be about double what I paid at the ORFILIA. But I did get a discount as a "friend" of the Orfilia, and never actually looked at their published rates to. As is my usual, I write directly to the hotel to inquire about rooms and prices, rather than use the online booking systems. (This is for more for "important" hotel stays--either expensive hotels or stays more than a night or two)... Strange but I almost feel as if I would be two-timing by staying anywhere else!!! Maybe a night at SANTA MAURO (depending on the rate I can find) as a first night to relax after arriving in Spain sometime.... For instance, stay there a night to rest up before heading on to Cuenca as the first stop before Valencia and Denia and, probably Alicante. But I'm not eager to pay $800 for a night, so it might not be an option for us.....again, I will do some investigation on their rates. And location of SM vs Orfilia? Not so important for a night but in general, it's further from Mercado de la Paz, etc,, and closer to (???? what)).... I should always have such tough decisions in my life! We are very fortunate.
Just checked for sample date, Monday December 2. Lowest rate at SANTO MAURO for two people in least expensive room, including breakfast, taxes and fees=979 euro!!!!!!! Not an option for me.
We still often speak about them (we call them "storkies," and I remember that they were also nesting at ABADIA DE LA RETUERTA.
We had, I think, a 4pm Iberia flight MAD-JFL and that worked out so well; with such a late flight, there are so many options outside the city of Madrid, that some people might prefer. But I don't know if there is still flight leaving Madrid at that time. Four pm is a great time to depart...the entire morning. I remember being annoyed, though, that we did not have time for lunch at an Asadores that w spotted in Pedraza. Speaking of that, El Yantar, which gave us such a memorable lunch, seems to be closed.
You've gotten me very curious about the SANTO MAURO. Their online rates (I looked only briefly) seem to be about double what I paid at the ORFILIA. But I did get a discount as a "friend" of the Orfilia, and never actually looked at their published rates to. As is my usual, I write directly to the hotel to inquire about rooms and prices, rather than use the online booking systems. (This is for more for "important" hotel stays--either expensive hotels or stays more than a night or two)... Strange but I almost feel as if I would be two-timing by staying anywhere else!!! Maybe a night at SANTA MAURO (depending on the rate I can find) as a first night to relax after arriving in Spain sometime.... For instance, stay there a night to rest up before heading on to Cuenca as the first stop before Valencia and Denia and, probably Alicante. But I'm not eager to pay $800 for a night, so it might not be an option for us.....again, I will do some investigation on their rates. And location of SM vs Orfilia? Not so important for a night but in general, it's further from Mercado de la Paz, etc,, and closer to (???? what)).... I should always have such tough decisions in my life! We are very fortunate.
Just checked for sample date, Monday December 2. Lowest rate at SANTO MAURO for two people in least expensive room, including breakfast, taxes and fees=979 euro!!!!!!! Not an option for me.
Last edited by ekscrunchy; May 4th, 2024 at 09:33 AM.
May 4th, 2024, 09:44 AM
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Yes, el Yantar, also a favorite of ours, is closed.
The storks are in our suburb. If you want to see a gazillion storkies, (I love them), go someday to Alcalá de Henares or to Alfaro, Rioja, where there are hundreds.
Ok, about the Santo Mauro, the location (across from our apartment) is actually slightly longer to the Mercado de la Paz, a 15-minute walk, opposed to the 11-minute walk from the Orfila. But stay at the Orfila and go to the Santo Mauro for dinner. The restaurant is catered by chef Rafael Peña of Gresca of Barcelona, or go just for a" bikini" (grilled ham and cheese) and wine at the bar, as we did. Elegant service, gorgeous décor.
Unfortunately, the Santo Mauro is one of the very most expensive hotels in Madrid, catering to an extremely deep-pocketed clientele.
The storks are in our suburb. If you want to see a gazillion storkies, (I love them), go someday to Alcalá de Henares or to Alfaro, Rioja, where there are hundreds.
Ok, about the Santo Mauro, the location (across from our apartment) is actually slightly longer to the Mercado de la Paz, a 15-minute walk, opposed to the 11-minute walk from the Orfila. But stay at the Orfila and go to the Santo Mauro for dinner. The restaurant is catered by chef Rafael Peña of Gresca of Barcelona, or go just for a" bikini" (grilled ham and cheese) and wine at the bar, as we did. Elegant service, gorgeous décor.
Unfortunately, the Santo Mauro is one of the very most expensive hotels in Madrid, catering to an extremely deep-pocketed clientele.
Last edited by Maribel; May 4th, 2024 at 09:53 AM.
May 4th, 2024, 11:20 AM
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Zahara de los Atunes (the best village in the south of Spain…keep that a 🤫
always had a huge Tuna festival in May and then a Retinto beef festival in September. All the local restaurants would compete with their version of a similar based tapa. The crowds were crazy and overwhelmed the little village. Tapa would be around 4 euro with incredible displays. Every restaurant in town competed. Last year we left on October 10th and the Retinto festival was just starting. Little ease on the town. It’s every year…best tuna in May, best beef in September
always had a huge Tuna festival in May and then a Retinto beef festival in September. All the local restaurants would compete with their version of a similar based tapa. The crowds were crazy and overwhelmed the little village. Tapa would be around 4 euro with incredible displays. Every restaurant in town competed. Last year we left on October 10th and the Retinto festival was just starting. Little ease on the town. It’s every year…best tuna in May, best beef in September
May 5th, 2024, 12:00 AM
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Back to Córdoba dining,
On my list for my next trip in addition to Casa el Pisto, of course, are a few new places serving more contemporary cuisine along with some of the Cordoban classics.
1. El Pórtico de San Lorenzo next to the church of the same name, For most all the recipes, the Montilla-Moriles fortified wines (generosos) are an ingredient---clams with fino, beef filet with oloroso, ox tail with palo cortado, almond mazamorra with Pedro Jiménez. And their croquettes are croquetas de pringá. No web page yet.
2. Sojo en Rama, a new tavern, is the brainchild of Michelin-starred Celia Jiménez, whose eponymous restaurant sits outside of town, close to Medina Azahara. It´s more of a tapas place for a picoteo with bar stools and high top tables only and a constantly changing, market-driven chalkboard menu. Here she serves 5J jamón ibérico.
On my list for my next trip in addition to Casa el Pisto, of course, are a few new places serving more contemporary cuisine along with some of the Cordoban classics.
1. El Pórtico de San Lorenzo next to the church of the same name, For most all the recipes, the Montilla-Moriles fortified wines (generosos) are an ingredient---clams with fino, beef filet with oloroso, ox tail with palo cortado, almond mazamorra with Pedro Jiménez. And their croquettes are croquetas de pringá. No web page yet.
2. Sojo en Rama, a new tavern, is the brainchild of Michelin-starred Celia Jiménez, whose eponymous restaurant sits outside of town, close to Medina Azahara. It´s more of a tapas place for a picoteo with bar stools and high top tables only and a constantly changing, market-driven chalkboard menu. Here she serves 5J jamón ibérico.
May 5th, 2024, 03:09 AM
#492
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Oh, dear, I was up till 3am looking at a plan to include Jane/Ubeda/Baeza before Vejer!
And now Cordoba again?
Mike, you really swim comfortably in the sea near Zahara into late September? But you are from Boston.. so maybe 75F is ok for you (??). I need at least 80F, I think....(huge baby)
And now Cordoba again?
Mike, you really swim comfortably in the sea near Zahara into late September? But you are from Boston.. so maybe 75F is ok for you (??). I need at least 80F, I think....(huge baby)
May 5th, 2024, 05:15 AM
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Ubeda and Baeza are two sister towns that are very close to each other (about 10 km). They have a large set of monuments and are declared a World Heritage site. Plus, at the popular, unpretentious bars in these two towns a free tapa comes with every drink you buy.
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/522/
https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/522/
May 5th, 2024, 08:00 AM
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I see the Zahara de los Atunes Ruta Del Atun is slated for May 14th-19th. All restaurants will compete for the best tuna based tapa. They are all different and very creative. The winning restaurant gets a big atta boy like a Michelin Star. The town will be packed with folks coming from all of Spain to spend a few days. The Ruta Del Retinto is the same but obviously all tapa will be Retinto beef based. It’s from Oct 9-13th this year. Ms. Eks, the weather in Zahara the end of September into mid October is usually hot in the 80’s. In my experience in the last15 years during this period the water is warm and very enjoyable even at 8pm as you wade in the ocean and watch the famous sun set the town is famous for. Hundreds of people pack the beach bars from 6pm to 830. Watch the sunset and then leave.
The only issue is during September is you may fall victim to the notorious Levante wind on a few days , which makes even walking the beach a challenge. But being the foodie that you are I highly recommend the Ruta Del Retinto.
The only issue is during September is you may fall victim to the notorious Levante wind on a few days , which makes even walking the beach a challenge. But being the foodie that you are I highly recommend the Ruta Del Retinto.
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