phillyboy

After a 4-year hiatus, brought about by Covid and a number of personal issues, we are happily planning a 2-week trip to Europe with another couple, our good friends with whom we’ve traveled for 30+ years. The time frame will be mid-late September, and the general plan is to visit Southern Italy. The specific day-to-day itinerary is very rough at this point, and I’m looking for some help.

We have been to Italy quite a few times before, having visited Rome and many points north on multiple occasions. We’ve also spent time on the Amalfi coast, and have no interest in returning. We are targeting Puglia and Calabria. We are fairly comfortable with Puglia, and it seems to make sense to spend the bulk of our time there, maybe 9 -10 days, with 2 different bases – say 3 – 4 days somewhere in the Gargano Peninsula, and another 5 – 6 days in the south, near the Trulli district. We will have a car, and would stop for a day to see Matera at some point, possibly on the way to Calabria.

We are a bit fuzzier on where to go for 4 – 5 days in Calabria. Ideally, we would pick one base for that stay, as we dislike stays of less than 3 days. The obvious choices would be Tropea or Capo Vaticano, but we wouldn’t be spending all our time on the beach. We would have interest in exploring Pollino National Park, but are primarily looking to visit authentic Calabrese towns with a lively atmosphere and good food.

So at this point, the areas where we are looking for help are:

- Two good bases for Puglia, one each in the North and another in the South. Though we will obviously be near the water everywhere in this region, we don’t necessarily need to be right on the coast for the entire time. We do plan on visiting inland attractions like the Umbra Forest, Lecce, olive groves and vineyards of the Itria Valley.

- One good base in Calabria. Same strategy as Puglia – likely stay on/near the Tyrrhenian coast, but we will be driving inland to see the mountains, the Ionian coast, and any other ideas you have.

We are all in our early 70’s, in good enough health to do a reasonable amount of walking, but not looking for major hikes or other highly strenuous activities. Thanks for whatever help you can offer.

BowenLinda

I spent 5 nights in Lecce and 5 nights in Polignano a Mare and enjoyed both very much. Easy to do daytrips by train from both except to Matera (but you have a car if I remember correctly).

zebec

Yo PB,
Below is our TR (sorry no fotos yet). It could be useful.
Stanley Tucci showed Tropea during his recent episode and that too might inform your choices.
I am done. the end
Bella Puglia (also Basilicata and Rome)

phillyboy

BowenLinda - Thanks for your suggestions, we are especially interested in Polignano and Lecce.

zebec - Quite an entertaining and informative TR. You have a real talent. Some great information there, I may come back with some specific questions. Thanks very much.

yorkshire

The Gargano got nixed from both of my Puglia trips because it is a bit isolated--check drive times. It looks gorgeous, so if I was looking for beach and hiking only, that is where I would go. If you want options of other things to do, I would look at the central and southern areas for bases (Itria Valley and Lecce, for example).

HappyTrvlr

I would spend your two weeks in Puglia, so many places to see and enjoy.

phillyboy

Yorkshire - yes, I can see that the Gargano is a long way from Southern Puglia, hoping we can get there.

Happy - I’d happily stay in any one region of Italy for 2+ weeks, and we could possibly end up doing that. But at this point, we hope to get to Calabria for at least a few days.

HappyTrvlr

We stayed in Polignano a Mare for ten days and highly recommend it as a base.

phillyboy

Thanks Happy.

Abi_Calabria

As someone from the UK who has lived in Calabria (I know that is strange to hear!) I can happily advise on that part of your trip. I chose to live in Pizzo, as it's such a great base to explore a lot of the region from. On the Tyrrhenian Coast and easy to reach the gorgeous Tropea and beaches of that area, but much better connected to access main roads which will allow you to go up, down and also cross Calabria. Visit Scilla and the Violet Coast, Gerace, and explore some hilltop towns. There are many wonderful spots, and I would definitely suggest combining trips into the hills and medieval villages as you say - this is where you get the true experience of culture, traditions, food, nature etc. And mid-late September, you will also catch the grape harvest.

I know you've mentioned just one base, but if you would consider two during your time in Calabria, I would recommend it. Then you can have the true experience of the countryside and the coast (and also get a flavour of both coastlines, which are widely different). Also means you can enjoy vineyards without worrying about driving back! I would highly recommend Badolato or Altomonte for an authentic experience for a couple of days (and have friends in both regions I can put you in touch with to guide you more).

Lovely to hear you're venturing to this still little-known region and not just sticking to Puglia. I may be biased but I always say it's the 'real' Italy!

Abi

rosetravels

We spent a few nights in Calabria, based at an agriturismo outside of Altomonte. We visited various hilltowns like Acquaformosa and Morano Calabro and it was all really fascinating. Beautiful towns with no other tourists. The food was exceptional. We had been on the Cilento Coast before Calabria and from there drove to Basilicata. Great trip.

ekscrunchy

Rose would you mind naming the agriturismo in Altamonte? I had planned to stay in one after flying into Lamezia but ended up in Amantea, instead. Just curious, for a future trip..thank you.

mila0229

We spent 8 nights last September in Puglia. 4 nights we spent in Masseria right outside Locorotondo. It was so beautiful and peaceful and very good location-wise. Franceska is the owner, restored old fam with love and passion. We had a trullo room with a beautiful backyard. Very good breakfast.
Pietra Pesara
S.c.190 C.da Sant’Elia,9
70010 Locorotondo (BA)
+39 3204161516
This place was one of the best places we stayed during our 3-week vacation. Another 4 nights we spend in Lecce. At
B&B PALAZZO BIGNAMI,
Via Lombardia, 6 73100 LECCE
tel +393393454805, www.palazzobignami.com.
This place by far exceeded our expectations. It is an instead boutique hotel than B &B tastefully decorated (owners used to be designers), with large rooms, plentiful breakfast, beautiful terrace on the roof with a breathtaking view of the old city. The old city is within a 5-minute walk. You can email Liana and she will reply to you.
We also went to Calabria and stayed in a nice place outside of Tropea. Residence Porto Ulisse, you can look it up on Booking.com. It is a very nice place with the shuttle going to Tropea and the beach if needed. We had a car and we did not need a shuttle. But our friend used it after we left.

ekscrunchy

I wrote (I think) 2 trip reports about Puglia, a region we visited about 4 times. See if you can find t hem with a search. On one trip we included Matera.

Calabria is far away. I did like Amantea, though, and it was a good base for a few day trips. The town is near the sea but not on it..

Have you considered Maratea, in Basilicata, on the sea?

phillyboy

Thank you Abi, rose, and eks. And thanks also to mila for your recommendations. As our plans developed, we ultimately decided to spend our entire two weeks in Puglia. There were a number of factors that steered us to this outcome, not the least of which was advice from a cousin of mine who lived in Italy for years, and whose husband is a Pugliese. Hopefully, we will have an opportunity to see Calabria on another trip.

In the past, we have stayed at Agriturismo/Masseria lodgings, and though they have been lovely, there is one drawback for us - we love to have wine with our dinner, sometimes a lot of wine. Since these farmhouse inns are invariably located in a country-type setting ... and barring having dinner at the hotel every night ...we would be required to either drive, or pay for a cab or Uber, to get into town for dinner. We much prefer to stay within a small town, so that we can walk to and from restaurants without concern for all the issues related to over-imbibing.

We settled on 3 different bases, Central, Southern, and Northern Puglia. Here is our itinerary -

DOGANA RESORT
Banchina Seminario, 3, 70056 Molfetta (BA) https://doganaresort.it/en/ We will be here for the first 5 Nights. Molfetta is around 24 miles north of Bari.

Est Hotel
Via Pola 16/A, 73020 Santa Cesarea Terme Est Hotel 4 Star Hotel Salento Santa Cesarea Terme, Hotel 4 Stelle Vista Mare Santa Cesarea, Ufficial Web Site We will spend the next 5 nights here. Santa Cesarea Terme is a small town about 10 miles south of Otranto.

gli Orti di Malva
Via le Ripe, 122, 71010 Peschici FG https://gliortidimalva.com/ Four nights here, before our final night at FCO Airport. This is on the Gargano Peninsula, 30 minutes from Vieste.

We'll be well-located to see much of this very long region. We will have a car throughout, and look forward to this being a truly relaxing vacation.

Thanks again for all of your help.

rosetravels

I LOVE this new itinerary. And you've found amazing places. I'm planning a two week trip to Puglia with another couple for late August, early September. gli Orti di Malva looks perfect for us and we may stay there too! We've landed on 3 nights at Masseria Incantalupi (with dinners & wine), 3 nights in Salve at Palazzo Frangipane (small town near both coasts, we can walk to dinner), 3 nights in Lecce, on to Matera, and then perhaps the Gargano peninsula. I love your focus on three places though and so will have more conversation with our friends.

rosetravels

EKS - first, I have to share that my daughter took her grandmother to Puglia about five years ago and sent me her detailed itinerary to help with my plans. One of her notes says, "A Casa Tu Martinu: EKS says "do not miss."" Made me smile to see you quoted.

We stayed at Agriturismo Le Farnie outside of Altamonte. We really enjoyed the hill towns in the area and found driving around interesting. The towns were settled by Albanians in the 1600's and signs still have both languages. Altomonte and San Donato di Ninea were beautiful and friendly. At the latter the ladies were cleaning the church and had my husband help them move statues. Monte Calabrio was gorgeous and I wanted more time there.

phillyboy

Hi rosetravels - Best of luck on your trip planning. We will be in Italy from September 20 - October 4, so just a short time after you. Regarding gli Orti di Malva, it is a small B&B, and I believe there are just two suites on the property, so I'd encourage you make an inquiry regarding availability as quickly as possible. We originally planned to schedule our stay here as our first stop, but due to availability, we had to re-sequence our trip route to put it third.

phillyboy

Well, life got in the way, and we ended up cancelling this trip just 5 days before we were to leave, due to health issues involving one member of our traveling party. Fortunately, those issues have been favorably resolved, and we have been able to plug everything back in for late April - early May - same itinerary and hotels. We recovered all of our pre-paid costs through travel insurance. It was a bit shocking to see that the cost of airfare and hotels has gone up significantly in just over 6 months, but we are all in our early 70's and fairly well-off financially, so we are anxiously looking forward to getting back on the road.

Still open to suggestions on things to do, day trips, etc.

ekscrunchy

So glad you are going to Gargano. You will be coming from the south, as we did. Unless we did something wrong, and I don't think we did, prepare for some really dilapidated, unpaved roads on the way. This is true both coming from the south, and from the north (we came from south and exited Gargano from Peschici driving southwest. At one point we ended up on an unpaved path in the middle of an olive grove!

I have a recommendation for you; it is an agriturismo inland from Vieste but reachable from Peschici. I wrote about it, here:

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/gargano-peninsula-vieste/36074/2

If you have the time, I'd recommend a visit to Vieste, at night when the marble-block-paved streets shine under the electric lights. It's astonishingly beautiful and if still on exhibit there, see the parade of hands sculpture "Building Bridges," their n ywork of Lorenzo Quinn, the son of Anthony Quinn.


On your last night, In Fiumicino, you must have dinner at PASCIUCCI AL PORTO, which I think is among the best seafood restaurants in italy nd a delightful experience! Book ahead. I still cannot get over the anchovy butter! And the spaghetti with Vongole!!!!

https://www.hungryonion.org/t/fiumicino-coastal-town-near-main-roma-airport-two-dinners/36213/2

Where are you staying in Fiumicino? I strongly recommend staying IN the town, near the Tiber canal, so you can take advantage of the lively atmosphere at night, with all the restaurants packed nd everyone out strolling with gelato cups! I'd stay there even if NOT going into Rome. DO NOT STAY at any of the large hotels lined up between the airport and the town, unless you are prepared to take taxis into town for meals. There's a line of hulking, tall, concrete chain hotels that you pass when arriving from the airport. NO!!! WE've stayed at HOTEL SECCY, perfectly placed in the town and walkable to all places to eat. The rooms vary a lot from tiny to vast, 3-bedded ones. After a night in the tiny, standard room years ago, we book the better room classes. It's a cozy family-run hotel and service is lovely. It's no longer "cheap," but then, neither are those large chain hotels which will keep you isolated from all the joys of the town itself. The Seccy can arrange a shuttle/taxi.
If you do not feel like plashing out for Pasciucci, there are loads of pizza places--nice ones, like the one I wrote bout in my report, CLEMENTINA.