traveljen730

Hello! I'll be heading to Poland in September 2023 for 10-12 days. Need some help with an itinerary. Flying from Chicago. We definitely plan Krakow, Zakopane and a small town outside of Zak to visit my husband's family. Just wondering if we should to Gdansk or Wroclaw. Proximity tells me that I should do Wroclaw. Flying direct from Chicago is only possible to Krakow. Any help on an itinerary would be incredibly helpful! I'm thinking land in Krakow, spend the night, 3 days in Wroclaw, train (or private driver) to Zakopane, stay for 3-4 days for hiking, family visit 1 day. Finish off with 3-4 days in Krakow. Thoughts? I really appreciate your help. Also, hotel or Airbnb? Top favorites in these cities. Thank you!

cdnyul

Before I launch into an anti-Zakopane rant, do you consider yourself a góral?

millie2112

Cdnyul, please rant away.. I would love to know what the issues are with Zakopane.

traveljen730

We're visiting family that live outside of Zakopane so I'm not really looking for a rant. I'm looking for helpful advice. Thanks!

bilboburgler

I prefered Wroclaw over Gdansk, but the Gdansk port area and the main square are also good

traveljen730

Ok...we're leaning towards Wroclaw for this trip. It looks like a beautiful city.

Michael

If you drive to Zakopane, stop by Lipnica Murowana and Rajbrot to visit the wooden churches with fold decorations:

https://flic.kr/p/cBLX5W https://flic.kr/p/cBM5Su

cdnyul

Take the bus to Zakopane.
https://dworzeconline.pl/rozklad-jaz...42507&to=52930

Kraków to Gdańsk is six hours by train, center of Old Town to center of Old Town.

If you decide to go and hire her:
https://www.przewodnicy.pl/czaykowsk...tarzyna-gdansk

A sample of her work:
https://www.przewodnicy.pl/czaykowsk...tarzyna-gdansk
She also speaks English, we grew up together in Apapa, Nigeria during the Biafran War.

Michael

Folk decorations

dk2022

Please visit Wroclaw, exquisitely renovated and atmospheric plus close to Zakopane.

Michael

Google indicates that the fastest way to go from Zakopane to Wroclaw is via Krakow.

shelemm

I spent three weeks in Malopolska, not venturing further north than Krakow. I adored Zakopane, BTW.
Here are my tips:

Oszypek is a smoked cheese you will see all over. It is very delicious, but if you can get it grilled it is truly fabulous. There are about a dozen smokehouse near Zakopane, and you can visit one.

The area is known for its wooden architecture, especially churches, but not exclusively. Zakopane has some great other examples, and there is a Zakopane style of villa. More info:
Szlak Architektury Drewnianej w Małopolsce
Search for Zakopane.

This is a great place to eat at night:
https://karczmazapiecek.pl/

We went with our two very young kids and my mother, so only two short hikes. One after we took the cable car to kasprowy wierch stacja gorna and hiked along the Slovakia border, you can make this hike as long as you want.
The other was to a waterfall and hike-in teahouse, wodospad siklawica.

The Wieliczka salt mines are totally worth it. Auschwitz, you should go.

In Krakow, stayed at Hotel Francuski. Great place, and reasonable considering it is luxurious.

thursdaysd

Agree with shelemm. Zakopane is touristy, but the scenery is so good it doesn't matter. I went south into Slovakia, but you may not have time.

Also agree that the salt mines are quite something. While Auschwitz is a must, it took me several days to recover - I could feel evil seeping out of the ground.

I didn't make it to Wroclaw, but would like to.

AnselmAdorne

I would have liked to heard cdnyul's rant about Zakopane. My wife, as a child living near Kielce in Poland, heard her parents talk longingly about Zakopane, so she wanted to visit while we were in Poland. Neither of us were really smitten, although, in fairness, I developed a horrible cough while were were there, which certainly coloured my view. We did enjoy the hiking, the Góraly folk music, and the food, including the oscypek cheese that shelemm mentions, above.

We truly enjoyed Wrocław. It's a fascinating city.

Christina

I liked both Wroclaw and Gdansk, I don't think either one is superior. They are obviously very different in terms of history and geography. I think both are great.

But if you are going in/out of Krakow, Wroclaw obviously makes more sense and I'd choose it since you haven't been there before. Especially if you are adding in Zakopane given it is south of Krakow. I am not sure what you mean about a small town outside of Zak, are you using Zak to mean Zakopane? It has a different meaning in Polish.

cdnyul

In Kraków, I like the Best Western Plus Stare Miasto
https://www.bwoldtown.pl/
I like it because It is a short walk to the Square as well as to Kazimierz.

Michael

small town outside of Zak

Chocholow perhaps?

https://flic.kr/p/cBN1SL

traveljen730

I look forward to enjoying it!

traveljen730

That looks beautiful! We will definitely make a stop to see these beautiful churches. Thank you.

PeterB

When in Wroclaw - do a day trip to Ksiaz Castle and smaller but also worth Bolkow Castle ... Both are near each other and about 40km+ from Wroclaw ... Both castles can be done on the same day - with Ksiaz needing extra time ( with all its history and secrets ) - and Bolkow probably 1 hour or less.
https://www.ksiazcastle.com/2/Ksiaz_Castle
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolk%C3%B3w_Castle
When in Zakopane maybe spend an extra time to visit Niedzica and Czorsztyn Castles
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Niedzica_Castle
In this area Pieniny mountains take a Dunajec river raft trip - Splyw Dunajcem -> https://flisacy.pl/languages/english