Planning 12 Days in Australia??

Old Nov 6th, 2021, 12:37 AM
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Planning 12 Days in Australia??

I appreciate that some of these forums are as dead as the proverbial Dodo these days but here's hoping that someone is still looking here and can venture some opinions.

Itinerary
I have just booked flights from London to Sydney in September. we will be top and tailing our visit with time with family in Sydney which is the primary reason for our visit. In between we will have 12-14 days to play with for some form of “road trip”. After leaving Australia we will spending a week in Tokyo on the way back to London.

Background

We have visited several times before, usually for a month or two at a time and have seen a fair amount. The Red Centre, parts of Queens land and the Northern Territories , GBR for diving etc. Cities visited mainly Sydney, Melbourne, Darwin Cairns for a few days. Interests are wide and varied, cities, countryside, scenery, food , culture etc. Not interested in sitting on a beach though do love beachside towns, diving etc. Quite happy to travel at a reasonably fast pace, go off the beaten track. Have travelled extensively in New Zealand by camper van, mainly in winter spring.

Initial Thoughts

Rental car and hotels versus Motorhome plus campsites or "freedom camping”
In terms of routes, and this is where I am really struggling for inspiration:
  1. A round trip from Sydney - out coast, back inland.
  2. Sydney to Melbourne slowly
  3. Sydney-Melbourne- Adelaide a bit quicker
  4. Melbourne - Adelaide via Mornington, winelands, GOR etc (Kanagaroo Island?)
  5. Sydney - Brisbane/ Byron
I have discounted WA as just too far in the time we have.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated!


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Old Nov 6th, 2021, 08:04 PM
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Hi Crellston,
September is a lovely time to be in Australia.

Given what you’ve already done, I’d love to take you on a loop out through our wonderful NSW Central West, across to Canberra and back to Sydney via the South Coast.

I could see you spending a couple of weeks very pleasantly doing that in a car, staying in country motels, Airbnb’s, wineries and other interesting accommodation.

The motor home rental market here can be a bit hit & miss, from what we ( used to) see in comments. That said, by next September, there may be a whole new scenario with new units being added to the fleets.

Do you enjoy bushwalking? Friends are just now doing what looks like a fabulous walk in the Warrumbungles, near Coonabarabran, with Aboriginal Guides. The photos are sensational. I’ll dig up a link or three later on.

Going west, there’s a few options. I’m a bit torn between :

1) Bells Line of road over the Blue Mountains, stopping at Tutti Fruitti at Bilpin for morning tea. They were burnt out in the 2019/20 bushfires & have re-built, gathered themselves up & are still making the best pies, slices, cakes, preserves, jams and proper tea & coffee. Bilpin is a “Fruit Bowl”, with wonderful orchards.

Just up the road is the Royal Botanic Gardens at Mt Tomah. This is a glorious place and although some of it was also burnt in those fires, much was untouched. I was last there with a Scottish friend in 2019 ( before the fires) & we took the tour in the motorised buggy with one of the guides. Very worthwhile, takes about an hour. We were sorry not to have had an extra hour or so to wander. It’s a huge area, with undulating terrain, so I really recommend the buggy tour to see the best range of vegetation and also for the excellent commentary.

You might plan a picnic there if you’re thinking about lunch. Buy something for that at Tutti Fruitti. Unless they have picked up their game & opened the restaurant more often at the Botanic Gardens, the food options at the take away could be best be described as very average. Pity, because I’ve had some excellent meals in their restaurant in years past.

Continuing on towards Lithgow, there’s an interesting art gallery, cafe ( and good, clean toilets) on the left hand side. Details later.

Lithgow - Mudgee. This is a charming town in one of our good wine growing area. You might consider this as an overnight stop, either in town or at one of the wineries.
Have a look at the “ Visit NSW” website under Central West. Mudgee is a prosperous town , with substantial gold mining, grazing, farming and wine growing past, present & future. You’ll see the past in the wide streets, substantial buildings, mature European trees, beautiful homes & gardens, and the future in the innovative food that features local produce.

While I think of it: Buy from the Bush is a great indicative to highlight the wonderful country produce of all manner from food, through textiles, clothing, homewares and more. I like to look up the Buy From the Bush shops on my routes and support them whenever I can.

Mudgee - Gulgong (gold rush town) - Dunedoo - ( The White Rose cafe is next to the newsagents, serves good coffee, and the good, clean public toilets are in the park across the street).

As an aside, you probably know this, but you can always use the toilets in puns in country towns, just buy a soft drink , chips or something. to say thanks, if you’re not having a meal.

Dunedoo - Mendoran- Coonabarabran. It’s only about 2 1/2 hrs Mudgee to Coonabarabran.
I’ll post some links later, but have a look on the Visit NSW website if you get to it before I do.

I could easily spend 2-3 full days in & around here.

There’s a couple of options for your next move.
1) Coonabarabran - Coonamble - Walgett - Lightning Ridge. 305kms & about 3 1/2 hrs.

Lightning Ridge is a fascinating place. Not only is it one of Australia​​​​’s main Opal mining areas, it’s a treasure trove of art,& artefacts, underground sculptures, indigenous heritage, and unique characters from all around the world. There is also a fabulous artesian spa centre - guaranteed to revive any travel weary bodies! I tend to take it a bit for granted as, for half of my life, this part of the country was part of my “ home turf “. I shouldn’t though, For many people, locals and overseas visitors alike, it’s been one of the highlights of their trip.

You'd need 2 nights here. There’s a couple of good motels.

Or (2)
Coonabarabran - Gilgandra - Dubbo.

You could also take (3) Coonabarabran - Lightning Ridge - Walgett - Coonamble - Gilgandra - Dubbo - Wellington - Orange.

This would allow you to include Lightning Ridge and if you got back to Dubbo just before dusk, when you don’t want to be in the road anyway, you could see the animals being fed, stay overnight & head off after having a good look around the next morning.


The Western Plains Zoo is fantastic and if you like, you could do an overnight there.https://Taronga.org.au/dubbo

https://taronga.org.au/dubbo-zoo/accommodation/savannah-cabins

Dubbo - Wellington - Orange. About 2 hours.


Orange is another prosperous, gold, grazing, farming, wine & food area. Current gold digging, too - big Cadia mine at Forest Reefs.


This is one of my favourite areas. Little villages like Canowindra, Millthorpe, Mandurama, Carcoar are charming & brimming with great sight seeing, eating & wine tasting.

I’d allow 3 full days here. You might stay in Orange , or in one of the villages. Last time, I was there for the Carcoar Show ( late October 2019) & stayed in Carcoar.

Orange - Canberra: It’s only about 3 1/2 hours straight through, but of course, you’ll want to stop here & there. Depending on where you’re starting from, ( Carcoar or Canowindra), you’ll take a route that ends up in Cowra. Interesting town, including the Japanese prisoner of war camp and Peace Gardens.

Cowra - Boorowa. I like Boorowa. There’s a couple of lovely shops, a charming old pub … nice country town. Beautiful fine-wool,growing country. Well cared for place.

I’ve built whole trips around a booking in a restaurant I wanted to visit, so don’t be surprised if I throw in a detour now & again. Can’t help myself.


There’s a great restaurant, Grazing, in the Royal Hotel at Gundaroo. www.grazing.com.au/

I’ve been there twice & promised myself next time it will be dinner and I’ll stay at one of the cottages nearby. If I can find the link, I’ll paste it, too.

So … Boorowa- Yass - Gundaroo - ( a bit over an hour ). You’ll be passing through Murrumbateman & there’s some good wineries in the area, which you may wish to visit. Give them a call to make sure they’re open to visitors.

I haven’t explored this area, except for grazing at Grazing, so can’t offer you more than you or others will know or find.

Gundaroo to Canberra. Allow 2-3 full days. So much to see & do. A couple of newish interesting places to stay, too. There’s always an interesting exhibition at the NGA & that’s just the start.

I had my palms slapped down with a border closure earlier this year and was soooo disappointed! I had Gallery, accommodation, new Japanese restaurant bookings all made. I’ll find the restaurant for you later.

By now, you’ve been inland for a week or so. Let’s head to the South Coast.

Canberra - Batemans Bay. Two hours + stops. Interesting spots along the way, Bungendore, Braidwood.

Others will know the coastal South Coast much better than I do, but there’s myriad gorgeous places to stay & play. If you like seafood, the Fishermen’s Co-op for some oysters is a good start.

Have a look at that Visit NSW website. Suffice to say, this is an area where the water is clear, although it might be a bit too cool to swim in September without a wetsuit, there’s some wonderful food, wineries and interesting things to see & do in & just inland from the coast.

Getting back to Sydney: You could either just go straight up the highway, along the coast - or up through Kangaroo Valley to the Southern Highlands & back via the Hume Highway. Either woukd be a good option. It really depends on what you fancy when. You’ve done some research - and of course, on your available time.

That’s a start. Hopefully others will chime in soon.

it’s so nice to be able to talk travel again,

I will do some links foe you later. I’m postin on my iPhone & it’s a bit tricky doing the links.

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Old Nov 6th, 2021, 08:24 PM
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Here’s a Trip Report I did on a bit of the Central West a decade ago.


A Quick trip to NSW's Central West - an old brown dog, a grapefruit & a
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Old Nov 6th, 2021, 10:54 PM
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Wow! Wonderfully detailed suggestion, Bokhara. That's be a fabulous trip.

I'd also recommend Grazing, at Gundaroo. Bloody good food and not stuffy. Accommodation around there is expensive for what you get. 25km to Gunning is a good deal.

Instead of the restaurant at Mt Tomah Botanic Garden, let me suggest High Hopes, the new-ish restaurant / roadhouse by Sean Moran in Bilpin. He used to do the gardens restaurant when it was good.
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Old Nov 6th, 2021, 11:33 PM
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Thanks for the incredibly detailed response Bokhara2. Exceptionally helpful! All on an iPhone too! I am impressed

I should have mentioned that, in addition to the other places we have been, we did visit the Blue Mountains on our last trip and MAY head that way again as a long weekend from Sydney (depending, I suppose on how the new addition to the family is settling in!! This is largely why I was considering the Adelaide & Melbourne options. How would you say those compare with NSW?

i will have a look at those links and your trip report. The option of sticking with NSW does have certain attractions- we have limited time; it doesn’t involve flying and we can pick up and drop off car or motorhome in Sydney rather than having to worry about or spend on one way fees, flights etc. One or two of the places you mentioned were on my radar from comments by other Aussie friends. Will add those into my Google map favourites and see how they map out and fit into a round trip (though it is already looking like a bad case of chickenpox!).

Interesting comments re motorhome v car rental & hotel. We have spent a lot of time in motorhome in NZ and a couple of shorter trips in Australia. We love the freedom a motorhome allows to stop where and when we want. My initial research suggests that motorhome will likely be the cheaper option and we do like the ability to cook our own food but still have the option to eat in restaurants etc. We have had good and not so good experiences with motorhome in terms of service, quality of vehicle etc. mostly though , they have been excellent. A difficult choice which fortunately, I have plenty of time to make.





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Old Nov 7th, 2021, 12:18 AM
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If you’ve happily used motorhome here in the past, I absolutely wouldn’t try to dissuade you from doing it again, Crellston. You have the contacts, know the product , etc. You’re right about it being a cost saving in terms of self catering - but, and this is an important but - there really isn’t any “ Free camping” here. During Covid, it seems “ every man & his dog” has taken to the road in caravans, motor homes, etc., and the caravan parks & rural towns have been full of Australians seeing their own country & State. You may also find the fees are fairly hefty - but you know this stuff, you’ve done it here before.

I don’t think you can successfully compare one State to another. Each has its own characteristics, geographical & climate differences. I’ve lived in Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth (for 6 months ) and know the other Capitals reasonably well. This rids me of the nonsensical “ Sydney/Melbourne is best/awful and Canberra is full of nothing but public servants” rhetoric. I’ve done a reasonable amount of travel domestically, grew up inhe country, so am used to and like long drives.

I don’t honestly think you could go wrong spending a couple of weeks out of any of our Capitals.

I suppose I’m favouring NSW, because we’ve had so many sudden border closings and you’d be starting & finishing in Sydney. And, having lost count of the trips I’ve cancelled in the last 2 years, I’m a tad “ gun shy”. Hopefully, all that will be gone by next September. There is also the point you made well about Interstate drop off fees.

If you have specific dates in mind, it would be helpful to know so we can advise you of any events/ festivals etc., that you ,say like to know about. A good source of that info is the “ Time Out” & Weekend notes” online for the various capitals . Rural & regional areas usually have an active FB Page and / or website & advertise what son in their area.

it’s a delicious dilemma to have - but time is on your side!

Last edited by Bokhara2; Nov 7th, 2021 at 12:20 AM.
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Old Nov 7th, 2021, 01:03 AM
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Yes I have noticed the "“ Sydney/Melbourne is best/awful and Canberra is full of nothing but public servants” I used to work with a bunch of Aussies in London before I retired. According to the guy from Adelaide it was far superior to Melbourne. Most were from Sydney and felt superior to those from Melbourne. My PA was a very forthright woman from Camberra who told me they were all wrong and not to miss the ACT!! Same with visitors to the UK except with us it is usually re England v Scotland v Wales v Northern Island - ridiculous really, everyone knows England is the place to visit .

You make a very good point re sudden border crossings! Son is a doctor in one of the Sydney hospitals and has access to more info than most re covid issues I suppose and, speaking to him I know that he feels/or at least felt that state border closures might be bigger issue than international borders. Seem perverse that it might be possible to travel to the UK but not between states at some point!

As you say, it is a delicious dilemma to have! Pre pandemic we had been travelling the world pretty much full time since 2008 with a few breaks here and there. Two years lockdown in the UK and my travel planning skills need some re-honing!

Thanks for the tips on sources of info especially useful as I have just heard that the New Australia Guide I ordered will not be forthcoming due to “communication issues in the warehouse’ who knew that global supply chain issues had hit the guide book industry??

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Old Nov 7th, 2021, 02:57 AM
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You may find the Australian Forum on Trip Advisor more lively than this one. There is a good range of people, Australians & Internationals, with good experience & a helpful attitude. Sadly, the Fodors Australian forum has withered somewhat in the last few years. Several of us post on both.

I think your son’s thoughts reflect the jumpiness most of us feel about the uncertainty of interstate travel just now. I moved from Sydney just prior to Covid hitting & Qld has not had the lengthy lockdowns, or the case numbers they & Melbourne have had, so I’ve been very lucky. My business isn’t greatly affected by border closures, it’s mainly just leisure plans which have been disrupted for me. I hope he weathered the Sydney lockdowns ok - that wouldn’t have been easy & especially so as a medico in one of our hospitals, I imagine.







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Old Nov 8th, 2021, 03:19 PM
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Another resource is the Fauxdor Friends FB page. I see you there sometimes!
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Old Nov 8th, 2021, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by margo_oz
Another resource is the Fauxdor Friends FB page. I see you there sometimes!
indeed you do Margot! My problem is that I am a little bit hopeless when it comes to Facebook. I keep "losing" stuff! I started asking about our trip to California trip in January. I got some great info their and then, went I tried to return to it, couldn’t find it. Some one there told me how to save it and even then I still had issues. I think the problem s that I just don’t use it enough to familiarise myself with it, but you are right, I will give it a go!
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Old Nov 8th, 2021, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Bokhara2
You may find the Australian Forum on Trip Advisor more lively than this one. There is a good range of people, Australians & Internationals, with good experience & a helpful attitude. Sadly, the Fodors Australian forum has withered somewhat in the last few years. Several of us post on both.

I think your son’s thoughts reflect the jumpiness most of us feel about the uncertainty of interstate travel just now. I moved from Sydney just prior to Covid hitting & Qld has not had the lengthy lockdowns, or the case numbers they & Melbourne have had, so I’ve been very lucky. My business isn’t greatly affected by border closures, it’s mainly just leisure plans which have been disrupted for me. I hope he weathered the Sydney lockdowns ok - that wouldn’t have been easy & especially so as a medico in one of our hospitals, I imagine.
I think our son was just glad he wasn’t back in the NHS in London where things were much, much worse! As it was he was at the sharp end during the height of pandemic in Sydney and didn’t see the massive numbers we did here. That said, day after day of working in full PPE day after day was very hard. Fortunately Australia had the foresight and ability to close its borders thus avoiding the worst of it. Though, from what I gather the draconian lockdown measures caused problems in other areas. Anyway enough of covid - wouldn’t want this place to end up like many TA forums ;-)

Thanks for the suggestion of posting on TA. I am quite active there, mostly in South America and Asia. I did ask this question there when a trip first became a possibility and got some great suggestions. Many were in the same vein as yours i.e. stay in NSW! Spoke with son and DIL on Sunday and they were very much of the same opinion. The owners of the cottage we are housesitting at the moment got stranded in Kiama on a visit to family. That was two years ago! They again suggest sticking with NSW. I think the world is trying to tell me something!!

Decision made, we will stick with NSW. I think I may have an old guidebook in my BILs attic so, rather than wait for the new LP guide, I will hunt that out and start cramming it with post it notes using the suggestions here and teh websites you suggested (v.helpful btw) and elsewhere. I will return for a critique/ reality check once I have cobbled an outline together.

Finally, I tried posting here as I much preferred the layout functionality of Fodors as well as the people.It would be great to see it get back to its former glory. Have made and met a lot of friends on Fodors over the years and have met up with many over the years all over the world. Indeed, hoping to arrange a meet up with a couple of friends in LA when we visit California.
Although I am a DE on Tripadvisor, I do find a huge variation in the quality, helpfulness and friendliness of forums . I also dislike intensely the way just about every question ends up with someone turning it around to covid at every opportunity! If I ask a question about quarantine great! If I ask a question about visiting the Eiffel Tower, I don’t need 20 people telling me I shouldn’t go ;-)


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Old Nov 9th, 2021, 03:10 PM
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Come and visit us Crellston ! We’re about 1.5 hours drive from Ballina or Byron. Great hikes in the Border Ranges NP and several others in the area. Plenty of room for your motor home here too.

You could meander up the coastal route and return via the New England Hwy route taking in Tenterfield (birthplace of Peter Allan), Glen Innes, Armidale, and Tamworth. Then detour off to the Mudgee area as described by others above.

We’ve hired motor homes a couple of times and like you, enjoy the freedom they allow.
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Old Nov 10th, 2021, 07:33 AM
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Hi Sartoric, fancy seeing you here! Be very careful what you wish for! We have a habit of accepting such invitations I shall add those places into the mix. Chatting with the family over the weekend DIL was suggesting we head south from Sydney DIL north . I feel a circular trip from Sydney coming on…
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Old Nov 12th, 2021, 02:31 AM
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There's so much of Australia I haven't seen yet since moving here. Bokhara and others have such a wealth of knowledge to share.

I just wanted to say that in going back and forth between Sydney and Melbourne (home), I've become a bit smitten with the Southern Highlands area. Berry, Fitzroy Falls, Nowra area. So leafy and green, waterfalls and pretty bush walks. I think if I could pick some part of Australia to live without worry of family ties and work, it would be around here.

I'm not a beach person either but if you keep going just a short way past Nowra there's Hyams Beach... oh, my.... what views of the "whitest sand beach in the world" (I don't know if they're right but it sure is easy to believe looking at it).

From here, there's a fork in the road. You're a reasonable striking distance to Canberra to catch some monuments and museums (Science in particular). It's actually not a bad town for a day or two and those politicians rarely come over to introduce themselves We've been a couple of times.

Or you can head down through the coastal towns, which are generally pleasant and not so touristed. Historic fishing towns etc and not all about beaches, though Pebbley Beach does have the advantage of kangaroos that hang around and venture into the water (Never saw one surf, despite the stories) In Merimbula, September is start of whale watching season as humpbacks are passing on their way to Antarctica. Several regular group boats go out so no need to charter one.

IMO, it does get a little less memorable once you cross into Victoria at that point and though I haven't been this year due to covid lockdowns, that area was ravaged by the well known bushfires. Likely to look pretty damaged for awhile yet (but I'm sure highly appreciative of any visitors). Whether you take the coast or come via the ACT, IMO it's worth heading back into the high country, this time on the Great Alpine Road, to visit Beechworld, Myrtlesford and Bright.

Otherwise, I couldn't blame you for wanting to get on to Melbourne area and beyond. Not sure what you've already seen in our immediate area but you can't go wrong with Phillip Island, the Sorrento and Point Nepean areas of the Mornington Peninsula and then ferry on to Queenscliff as you head to Torquay and the start of the Great Ocean Road.

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Old Nov 12th, 2021, 09:08 PM
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what a fab trip Bokhara makes me want to visit NSW and those areas.

Amazing whom I see on this page lol.

Sounds like Crellston you have decided to stay in NSW but if you want to follow up on CC's suggestions we can give you more help.
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Old Feb 12th, 2022, 01:15 AM
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Hi,

I think its going to be a very busy 12 days.
My initial thoughts on some of the other posts.
1. Canberra - I'm from Adelaide and it has a bad reputation for home of public servants etc etc when I went there I thought it was a nice place. Pretty cold in winter but nothing that you won't be used to. If I had a choice of travelling along the coast of Vic/NSW or Canberra I'd go the coast way but in your time period you might be better to go via Canberra to save time.
2. Kangaroo Island - its bigger than you think has been gutted by bushfires in the last 18 months normally I'd say its a must do just at the moment its marginal
3. Getting from Adelaide back to Sydney -2 days minimum and you will probably want a day in The Grampians or elsewhere.

September is a great time of year to travel to the places that you have nominated.



Last edited by Moderator1; Feb 13th, 2022 at 11:35 AM. Reason: deleted travel trade comment
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Old Feb 12th, 2022, 02:33 AM
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Originally Posted by northie
what a fab trip Bokhara makes me want to visit NSW and those areas.

Amazing whom I see on this page lol.

Sounds like Crellston you have decided to stay in NSW but if you want to follow up on CC's suggestions we can give you more help.
Just returned from a trip to California and have also bought a house (finally time to settle down in one place after 14 years of travelling the globe!) and yes, I think we have decided to settle on staying in NSW. Although heading north to Byron Bay could also be an option.

I have probably decided against a Campervan trip on the grounds of cost. Much as I love that mode of travel, it was working out very expensive. Will probably rent a car and stay in B&Bs /hotels/lodges on campsites etc. once I have worked out a basic outline where I will come back for more suggestions. Not going to bother with a guidebook as the LP one I bought for California was next to useless! Most useful were teh suggestions I got on the USA forum here. (Am in the middle of a trip report there if anyone is interested) .

Anyway, time to unpack more boxes/hang pictures/ screw things to walls etc..,.
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Old Feb 12th, 2022, 04:13 AM
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I wouldn’t bother with a guide book either. The only hard copy thing I would buy is a decent paper map.

For everything else, you will get the most current information, suggestions & conditions for road & weather online.

The Visit Australia website is pretty good and if you drill down to the various States, their Regional info is excellent.

Once you have some dates in mind, let us know & we can probably give you a few tips on festivals, markets, art exhibitions etc.. which you might like to attend. Or at least be aware of & book your accommodations in advance.

Many of our Caravan/ Holiday parks have onsite cabins, some in superb locations. These can be very good value.

Good luck with the unpacking!
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