Redlandsneen

Like us all, my plans for Italy were thwarted in 2020 and might not even be likely in 2022 from Australia. However, I'm looking at the bright side - plenty of time to drill down, perfect and fine-tune my itinerary.

The section I particularly need help with is: which is the nicest, most picturesque route to take from the coast (anywhere between Vasto and Francavilla al Mare) to get to Sulmona, ie SS650/San Salvo or SS652/Fossacesia or any other suggestions.

Originally we were going to stay the night in Castel di Sangro and then just stop for lunch in Sulmona on the way to Gran Sasso Park. But Castel di Sangro is basically a ski town and for the 30-40 minutes extra to arrive in Sulmona, I think that would be more worthwhile. From there, we intend to spend two nights in L'Aquila, exploring the area with a couple of short "tourist level" day walks to get the best vistas possible. So any insights and experiences regarding the tram etc would be appreciated. I am already using the national park site to explore walking tracks - Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga. It was suggested last year that visiting Gran Sasso from Ascoli Piceno might be nicer. But I've already been there and after L'Aquila, we are heading toward Siena, so pretty much want to stay on the western side of the mountains. TIA

Traveler_Nick

The SS are basically high speed roads. In spots you'll have great views but they exist so people can whiz by instead of taking all the curves of the older roads.

In other words you take those roads to save time not for any other reason.

SS650 is pretty boring IMHO until you get all the way west. Before that it's in the valley with all the towns high up above it.

Redlandsneen

Understood, thanks. Have you been to Sulmona? I'm just wondering if it might be better to come across further north up the coast and stay in the Teramo area. Then head out via the autostrada through the pass toward L'Aquila for Siena. Most of the driving itineraries seem to be on the west side of the range, although there is a nice drive from Sulmona along SS17 to Barisciano and Santo Stefano de Sessanio and Castel Monte on the way to L'Aquila. It's so hard to figure out what to do in a short period of time. Have you been through the park?

Traveler_Nick

I haven't been in a while.

I'm assuming you're using Google Maps or something similar to plot times. Pick the route with the least small road . Many of those smaller roads have a 90km/h official speed limit but at times you'll be lucky to hit 40. That messes up Google.

You want a route that's mostly SS until the very last minute.

Rocket79

Hi - We were there in 2018. You don't indicate where you're coming from; are you staying in a specific town on the coast? Sulmona isn't exactly "on the way" to L'Aquila from the coast unless you're farther south, I suppose. I could offer insight if you would provide a bit more info. (Did you specifically want to see Sulmona, or is that a pit stop, so to speak, etc.) It might be prettier (or just easier) to go north on the coast, then head inland from Pescara or something like that. If Gran Sasso, and those areas are really the target, there are many towns around there that are worth a visit. We planned to stay in Sulmona, but when we were there, it was full on rain, and I wanted to do photography, so we headed back to our airbnb in Fossacesia from our place in Calascio. Ahhh Abruzzo!

I'm sure a lot of others will weigh in, too. Good luck!

Redlandsneen

Hello Rocket79, thanks for your quick reply.

We are coming from Puglia (Polignare a Mare). I plan to use the autostrada to Vasto before heading to the coast for lunch on a trabucco. I have narrowed it down to a few recommended ones which are located between Marina di San Vito and Francavilla al Mare. After a relaxing lunch, we want to get close to Gran Sasso. Initially, we were going to overnight in Castel di Sangro (southeast of Sulmona) and then head to L'Aquila with a stop in Sulmona for lunch. According to Google Maps, which I know tends to underestimate drive times significantly, it should take around 40 minutes from there to Sulmona on the SS. So I thought why "waste" a night in Castel di Sangro if we could head straight there and have a morning in Sulmona before heading to L'Aquila via SS17, stopping at Barisciano and Santo Stefano di Sessanio and time allowing Castel del Monte.

Obviously, that is a big push just to see Sulmona, when it might be wiser to forego Sulmona and SS di Sessanio, and instead head further up the coast and across to the park from there (SS150 Roseto degli Aruzzi) and basing ourselves on the western side of the range. What I don't want to do is one night in one place and one night in another. It just all depends on which is the better "base" to see the highest massif peaks, whether the west side would be more dramatic for views, short walks, etc. The only draw to Sulmona was a program I saw with Silvia Colloca touring around Marche and Abruzzo when she went there. Mind you, I was in Ascoli Piceno in 2017 and sadly did not venture farther south toward the mountains.

So I am open to ideas that people can share from their experiences. At least if the weather is bad, like you had in Sulmona, the upside of staying in L'Aquila is there is enough to see in that city which is more than a ski resort.

Redlandsneen

Hello again. Just looking at Piazza Garibaldi, Sulmona, on Trip Advisor and the Wednesday and Saturday markets are something to behold, plus you are right at the base of the mountains - it looks gorgeous.

Rocket79

Hi - I hope some of the members who've traveled more in this area will chime in. From what you're telling us, it seems like where you decide to stay will depend on where you're coming from after lunch (you don't want to back track). Please make sure your trabocco of choice is open and that you don't need reservations. There are several roads into the inland. I would have loved to get to Sulmona and the surrounding villages, but it was a dayslong downpour situation.

L'Aquila isn't a bad spot to just base yourselves for Gran Sasso, so maybe you'd want to just push through and stay there for a night or two longer. You could do a day trip to Sulmona, as well; it's only a little over an hour from L'Aquila. We are the type who like to stay longer in one spot, rather than going for 2 nights here and 2 nights there. It all depends on how you like to travel. As far as Gran Sasso, I would plan on at least a day to do the area villages, like Santo Stefano, Castel del monte, Calascio, etc. They are small, and together can be done in a day. Then another day to drive through the park itself. It is stunning. Feel free to keep asking, my experiences are pretty limited, but we were in Abruzzo for 3 weeks and saw quite a bit. (Even went into Ascoli for a day!)

Redlandsneen

Thanks for this. I might have other questions later, but when you say "Drive through the park" what exactly do you mean? The autostrada cuts through to the Teramo side. Can you give me some examples of driving routes. As mentioned, the official park website has 16 driving itineraries, mostly around Teramo or at either end of the park.

Rocket79

So I have attached a really primitive screenshot that shows where we were. We didn't have time to drive the length and breadth of the park; it's huge. You really don't want to miss Campo Imperatore, though.

Not great at this but hope it gives you an idea.

Redlandsneen

Thanks! That's really helpful. Even the comment about not missing Campo Imperatore is important because even though I've read about it, I wasn't sure what the views are like. If I don't get a clear view of the tallest massif from any vantage point, I've missed my objective. The drive from Sulmona could encompass the route you took. I thought about Sulmona as a day trip from L'Aquila for a minute, but I think the push from Puglia should end there so we can use the evening for a lovely meal and the morning hopefully to experience the market if we could somehow arrive on a Tuesday or Friday night. This is what my current thinking is anyway. So on the full day in L'Aquila, I thought we could cross the range on the A24 and spend the day in that area which I believe encompasses Campo Imperatore as well.

bvlenci

SS stands for Strada Statale, which means state road. Some of them are limited access high ways for part or all of the distance, but others are just 2-lane roads.

The SS650 is in most places a 2-lane road with a limit of 90 km per hour, which is not particularly speedy. However, it is a limited access road, so many drivers will be exceeding the speed limit.
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Redlandsneen

Hello bvlenci, nice to hear from you again!

Currently, I am of the mind to take the route of high speed roads from Pescara, or further south Francavilla al Mare, via Chieti to Popoli/Sulmona. They look a bit intimidating though because of the way they intersect and Google Maps' directions seem confusing. Of course, I'll be relying on GPS to guide me the best way. Do you reckon this makes sense? Do you have any advice on how to avoid getting lost ?

From Polignare a Mare, as stated, we're only going to the coast to have a relaxing lunch on a trabucco and then head inland to visit Gran Sasso. If we can arrive in Sulmona by 5pm, that would be fine. Google Maps estimates less than 2 hours, but that might be a little conservative.

I'd appreciate any further insight on this aspect of the driving portion of our trip.

Thanks.

Redlandsneen

Hi all. Whilst my armchair travel outside of Australia continues, so evolves my proposed itinerary of Southern Italy. From Polignare a Mare, I'm thinking of heading inland to Matera for one night before heading north to Sulmona via the Abruzzo coast but that is way too long for one day. According to google, it's about 4 hours from Matera to Vasto. I just wanted to have lunch on a trabocco and head to Sulmona via Pescara but I think it needs to be broken up. Not sure I want to spend the night on the coast though. Is there anywhere worth visiting between Matera and Vasto to spend the night? TIA

Redlandsneen

Hello again. I have now revamped this part of my trip (next May). Rather than the mad dash to Firenze, I want to terminate this part of the trip in Roma. So, coming from Polignare a Mare for 3 nights, I want to stay overnight in Vasto so we can have a leisurely lunch on the trabocco there. The whole point of this trip was to see Gran Sasso Park. We will have about 3 or 4 more nights in Abruzzo. I'd like to see Sulmona and am open to suggestions on where to base ourselves with the best opportunities to do a little (easy) tramping. It can be 2 nights and 2 nights or 3/4 in one place. S.S. di Sessanio looks lovely. I am interested in the most scenic routes to take from Vasto. TIA.

bilboburgler

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trabucco questi?

Traveler_Nick

Google claims the "fast" route from Vasto is two hours. The scenic route if you're lucky might triple that. You likely won't find it that scenic either.

All the routes are fighting geography. Hills, mountains, rivers and gorges. Most (All?) of the older towns are away from the coast to avoid the worst of the raiders.

Rocket79

Capestrano or Navelli might be nice options to base yourselves in, if you want to see both Gran Sasso and Sulmona and be based in one spot. Santo Stefano, in my view, is more a place to walk around a bit, but there is not a lot there - at least in 2018 they were still doing a lot of construction, and it's quite small.

Redlandsneen

Hi again. I started to look at accommodation to see what there was in Capestrano, Navelli and Calascio and there was nothing available for next May! I wonder if this is the case because it's too far out.

Anyway, I'm thinking you are right to do Sulmona as a day trip (hopefully on market day, Wed or Sat) from one base around Gran Sasso. It looks like heading up the coast from Vasto to Pescara is the way to turn inland. I think earlier you said L'Aquila wouldn't be a bad base as it's only about an hour to Sulmona. That was in my original plan, seeing as we were next heading to Assisi. Since then, we've decided that ending in Florence is way too much for the 12 days my friend from Tennessee has, and the plan is now to head to Rome for 1 night where she will depart back to the States and I will stay on. I will need to figure out where we can drop off the car to avoid driving in Rome. I am thinking maybe Tivoli. But there seems to be a decent road L'Aquila to the Tivoli/Rome area.

Any other thoughts? Thanks!

bvlenci

It's surely too early to make reservations for next spring.

As far as dropping off the car, you might want to drop it at the airport. Your friend could get an airport hotel, or she could take the train into central Rome if she prefers. I think it would be more convenient than dropping the car at some other town. I don't know if they still do, but the airport rental agencies used to let you drop the car right at the terminal, very convenient to the train station.