whitehall

This report is part of 37 days we spent in Europe (Greece, Italy, Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia between September 5-October 12). We initially booked, with credit card miles, flights in and out of Athens without any fixed itinerary. Then, we were invited to a family grape harvest in Sicily. Eventually, Athens airport became our base, and we went through there seven times. This created an opportunity for multiple distinct trips. This is one of them.

Day One: Drive Athens to Meteora

Our flight home to the US was scheduled from Athens airport, but we had a few extra days to spend in Greece. We began this trip nearly a month earlier in the islands, but decided to end our trip on the mainland. We picked two places of interest and a circle of sorts that included about 12 hours of total driving in four days.

We arrived from Sicily well into the evening and picked up a rental car and found a hotel within sight of the 2004 Olympic village. In fact, it was an odd neighborhood, with the Olympic village and other urban stuff out one window and a rural looking equestrian facility out the other window,

We thought about visiting the Olympic venue, but our itinerary already was quite ambitious. Our first of many, many toll booths, this one near the Athens airport, was comedic when we couldn’t figure out where the power window buttons were on an unfamiliar car. The first of many super friendly toll collectors helped us find the buttons on the center console (not near the door). And, not only were the dozens of toll collectors we encountered over the next several days friendly and polite, but my wife and I both added “attractive.” The only downside is Greece has one toll station after the next on its major motorway. The tolls to drive the four plus hours to Meteora were over $40 and even higher for the shorter return drive to Nafplio. Traffic, however, was extremely light, and the great roads and scenery, even with lots of tunnels, made the drive worthwhile, at least for us.

Extras included very clean restrooms and decent food, fresh o.j. and panini, at the many uncrowded gas/rest stops. Once off the main motorways, we passed nice fall displays reminding us that it was October. But the real surprise (not sure why) was going through an area, where cotton was blowing all along the sides of the road. Then we spotted fields and trucks and then what looked like a large processing facility. Not something we usually associate with Greece. A little research (very little) states that 85% of European cotton comes from Greece.

There is some rail service from Athens to Meteora, and, with the large number of buses we saw, there have to be multiple options that way as well.


Athens

Debbielynn

Looking forward to hearing and seeing more. I have been to both and am interested in what you might have experienced.

Heimdall

Whitehall, I don’t think you missed much by not seeing the 2004 Athens Olympic site. I was in Athens twice in 2004, once before the Olympics and once after, but never got on the main site, which was developed from the old Hellenikon Airport. Some of the venues were along the main road between the new airport and Piraeus. Most of the facilities were unusable after the Olympics, except the soccer stadium, and were left to deteriorate. Now the site is being redeveloped again, but 10 years after the Olympics it was a sorry sight.

https://www.theguardian.com/sport/ga...on-in-pictures

KarenWoo

Heimdall, I looked at the photos of the 2004 Olympic site. So sad! Do you know what the redevelopment will be?

whitehall

Thanks for sharing, Heimdall . Looks like we didn't miss anything. Not completely surprised, Olympic facilities are not only costly to build but even more costly to maintain. We saw the Barcelona site in various levels of degradation at times, but, over the years, they have seemed to largely keep up and use most of that facility. Hopefully, the re-energized Greek economy will make better use of that site.

whitehall

Meteora is simply a “wow” place. Nothing along the way prepares you for your arrival in Kalambaka, one of two places where you can stay when visiting Meteora.

The amazing rock formations provide a simply breathtaking and incredible backdrop for what almost feels a little bit like a western town in the US.

About 1200 years ago, many monks had climbed the massive pillars of rock scattered over this wide area. The top of these pillars provided an ideal spot for prayer, reflection and solitude on top of the world, closer to the heavens. Eventually, these Orthodox monks constructed monasteries on about two dozen of these pillars. It would be a massive under-statement to say that these were no simple tasks. Today, six monasteries survive and are open to the public.

We went there to visit the monasteries; if we had more time, we probably would have tried some of the extensive hiking trails. We also enjoyed the the Kalambaka evening street vibe.



Kalambaka/Meteora

Heimdall

I haven’t been following the story of the Olympic site for several years, but remembered the story in The Guardian which I linked. My first flight or two to Athens was at the old Hellenikon Airport, so was interested when they chose it for the Olympics. The airport was near the Piraeus ferry docks, and it was quick to get from a flight to a ferry. Strangely, the domestic terminal was on the other side of the runway from the international terminal. The Hellenikon site is in an ideal location for development, and I just checked to see what is happening there. The news is good if you like modern developments.

https://www.businessinsider.com/phot...-greece-2022-8

Heimdall

Whitehall, I’m enjoying your photos of the mainland. I once passed up an opportunity to visit Meteora, and have regretted it ever since, so I’m glad you were there to share it with us. My daughter and son-in-law arrived at night in Kalambaka as part of an overland trip. When they woke up the next morning they couldn’t believe their eyes. Strange things are happening on my iPad as I write this. I had to edit the previous post because it was corrupted, and am now seeing a different font from before.

Debbielynn

I have been to Meteora several times as it is not too far from where my husband grew up and where some of his family members live in Trikala. I always feel the arrival to Kalambaka in so dramatic. You come from the plains and suddenly see the massive granite monoliths. It is quite a sight!

whitehall

We had a choice of staying in Kastraki, which is a bit closer, by a few minutes, to some of the monasteries on the north side of town. But, for the most part, Kastraki is a series of disconnected businesses. Kalambaka, where we stayed, has a long main street, connected by three town squares, and is fairly lively at night. Bakeries and sweet shops too. There were free parking areas in various areas just off the main street.

A few weeks ago, we were in Switzerland, and it was pricey as usual. Even here in Florida, where we are now, it seems that simple lunches, with an alcoholic beverage, can be $50- 75 for two.

We smiled every moment in Kalambaka. Nice lodging and enjoyable dinners, and very low prices. We booked the best top floor room in our main street hotel, with a great view of the stunning rock pillars from a private deck.Good service, and it included a simple buffet breakfast. $77.50 per night including all taxes and fees. Our dinners with wine for the two of us were $20-30.

PegS

Thank you! We are hoping to get to Greece, including to Meteora, on one of our next few trips!

KarenWoo

Meteora looks fascinating! If we make it back to Greece, I will definitely add it to my itinerary. We will probably need 2 months. There are so many places I want to visit in Greece!

Did you drive your car to the top? Or take a bus or taxi? is there lots of walking?

Debbielynn

Very nice pictures. Have never been in the town.

whitehall

When we first saw photos of the monasteries, we expected long hikes and climbs, or special elevators needed to get to them. In fact, further in this report, we will explore the challenges that the monks and their suppliers had many years ago.

We were relieved to discover that there are a series of roads that encircle the monasteries. Good for private cars and for the many tour buses, some from far away and some that can be hired by those without cars. Depending on the monastery, there is a moderate to an extensive amount of walking to reach each of them. At least in early October, there was sufficient parking in lots, on pull-offs and along the road. Sundays crowds and those jockeying to watch sunsets do make things a bit tricky.

All the monasteries had admission fees, a few euros each as I recall.

Rules regarding dress codes varied in enforcement from monastery to monastery. To be safe: men should wear long pants and no sleeveless shirts, and women need to cover shoulders and wear long skirts. It seems they generally liked to cover women's pants. In my case, it was a warm day, and I had a pair of shorts that reached my knees. I tugged them down a bit at the one place that was being tough on shorts. I was not pleased when I was called out in front of a group of waiting tourists when someone complained to an inspector that her husband was asked to cover up when I had not been. As we recollect, one or two monasteries had some wraps to loan, but otherwise for a couple of euros, they were ready to sell wraps. The fussiest (and I don’t mean to be disrespectful) place even sold inexpensive pant coverings for men. I think this was the one monastery that currently is a convent. We have seen tourist guides that talk about some people being turned away for wearing jeans or other dress code violations; we didn’t see that at all.

whitehall

As you will see above, we drove to each monastery and still did a fair amount of walking. Some of the monasteries require less walking, and those, understandably, get more buses and therefore more visitors.

whitehall

Our biggest challenge was how to see all six monasteries in little more than one full day. There are plenty of websites that suggest going to a few of the “best” monasteries, but we came a long way and wanted to see them all. Hours do vary, and some of the monasteries close certain days. Fortunately, it was the week-end, and all were open; and we still have good legs, and frankly we DID enjoy them all.

After getting some guidance from the front desk person at our hotel after we arrived mid-afternoon, we decided to visit the two monasteries at the south end, maybe 10 minutes or so drive from there.

The Holy Trinity Monastery is known to many people, since it was featured in the James Bond film “For Your Eyes Only.” Because it has a very long winding path, it is probably the least busy of the monasteries. It has great views of Kalambaka and the valley below as well as views of three of the monasteries to the north.

The monastery, constructed in the 14th century, had access only via rope ladders for 600 years. Many of its treasures were looted in WWII. Each monastery has an ornate Orthodox Church, and generally visitors are discouraged from photographing them.



Holy Trinity Monastery

joannyc

Loved Meteora! Thanks very much for your TR!

starrs

What a wonderful report! Thank you!
Meteora is at the top of my list for a return visit. This is great information - and a fun read!

whitehall

This Monastery of St. Stephan, on the southern end of the Meteora peaks, is one of two monasteries inhabited by nuns. Some of the several dozen nuns at the two nunneries work in the gift shops here. It is larger than Holy trinity and much more accessible and therefore a bit more crowded. And, it has the best views of Kalambaka below. The Orthodox Church is simply spectacular.

whitehall

PegS Debbielynn joannyc starrs Thank you!!!