Diane

I'm planning a two week trip in late May/early June that includes myself, two daughters (24 & 28 yrs old), a good friend of mine and her 24 year old daughter (5 total - 2 moms and 3 twenty somethings). We all know each other well and have traveled together before but not outside the U.S. and not for this length of time. I've been to Paris many times, and both of my girls have been a few times as well. My friend has has been to Europe only once, to Italy, and her daughter has never been to Europe. None of us have been to Milan or Lake Como. We're renting an apartment in Paris (I've confirmed it's a legitimate rental) and we're staying in hotels in Italy. Here's the schedule:

May 21: overnight flight from U.S. to Paris, arriving in Paris late morning the next day
May 22 - 29 (7 nights): Paris
May 29 - June 1 (3 nights): Bellagio, Lake Como (taking early morning flight from Paris to Milan Malpensa and hiring driver to take us to Bellagio, arriving mid-day)
June 1 - June 3 (2 nights): Milan (taking mid-day ferry from Bellagio to Como then train from Como to Milan Centrale, arriving late afternoon at hotel)
June 3: mid-morning flight back to U.S.

I've got most of the time we have in Paris planned, which will include some major sights (I don't mind seeing then again) and a few things that are off the beaten path, as well as plenty of unscheduled time. I'm also planning a day trip with just my two daughters. I was considering Provins, as it seems like an interesting village with lots of history and some unique sights. I'd welcome comments/suggestions on Provins from anyone who is familiar with it! Also, any suggestions for Paris nightlife that might be fun for the twenty-something daughters?
Since none of us have been to Lake Como, I'd welcome recommendations on places to eat and things to see in Bellagio, or perhaps nearby towns. I'm thinking that this will be the relaxing part of our trip (taking the ferry to visit a few towns around the lake, perhaps some hiking, and in general, slowing down).
In Milan, I am looking at taking the City Wonders best of Milan tour that includes The Last Supper, and the Duomo (inside only, not rooftop). Has anyone done this? We might also purchase a pass for rooftop access to the Duomo. We'll visit the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, as well. Any other "must-do's" in the short time we'll be there? Any restaurant recommendations?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Jean

Just FYI... The ferry dock in the town of Como is within walking distance of the Como Lago train station, and trains from there go to both Milano Centrale and Milano Cadorna. The Como S. Giovanni station is a taxi ride from the ferry dock, and the trains from there go to Milano Centrale. Depending on your hotel's location, Cadorna might be closer and/or within walking distance.

The plan of "slowing down" in Bellagio depends on what you want to see/do and what you're willing to skip. Getting around by ferry is very convenient but not fast, and your two days might not be as slow as you think. I like visiting villas and gardens like Balbianello, Carlotta, Melzi, Cipressi. The views from Castello Vezio above Varenna are stunning. Pre-Covid, there was a falconry at Vezio that released the birds on a schedule a couple of times a day. You'd have to find out if it's still there.

Restaurant recommendations are a bit tricky since I don't know what long-time favorites have survived Covid at the same level of quality. Over many trips, we've had several great meals at Bilacus in Bellagio and at Cavatappi in Varenna. In the past, many people have commented on great meals at Il Perlo Panorama, a 10-minute taxi ride south of Bellagio, and I've heard of a couple even farther south that are very good. Buscione, is one I think. If you leave the Bellagio area for dinner, make sure you know the time of the last ferry back.

Some hikes around Lake Como:

https://www.komoot.com/guide/172098/...ound-lake-como

FWIW, I think the roof of the Duomo is fascinating, not to mention the views. But not on a rainy day... too slippery for some areas. IMO, the Galleria is mildly interesting. There is a little museum in La Scala. Even if you're not into opera, the museum entry allows you to view the interior of the theater from one of the boxes. (Of course, this was pre-Covid...)

Diane

Jean, Thanks so much for the input. Really appreciate the detailed information about the train stations in Como, as well as providing a link to hikes in the area. I'll look into the restaurant recommendations - hopefully they survived through Covid. I can't believe I forgot to consider La Scala while in Milan. That's now on my list to see the interior!

TDudette

Most of our Paris trips occurred before I joined Fodors, but we often booked day trips. Versailles on our own, with tour groups, Loire Valley chateaux, Bruges, Paris by night with dinner at Eiffel Tower. I went on solo trip by train to Giverny and Bayeux.

Here's my latest Paris TR. Go to post #47 for Giverny; #172 for Bayeux:

April in Paris...with a Side of Bordeaux

There's another current thread about Como you can check. Here's what I wrote:
"If you scroll down to post #15, you'll find the Bellagio portion of our trip. Maybe it will give you some ideas. Such a gorgeous area. If you are interested in textiles, Como city has a Silk Museum to check out. We never got there, darn it.

Turin, Spoleto, Bologna and Bellagio TR"

Please report back about what will be a wonderful time. Oh, no help with night life from this fogey!

Diane

TDudette - Thanks for sharing the link to your Paris TR. Visiting Bayeux to see the tapestry is a great suggestion. Also appreciate the info on Bellagio/Como.

I'll be sure to write a trip report upon my return!

MaineGG

We enjoyed a day in Provins, and the train ticket is included in the Zone 1-5 Navigo pass. It's a very picturesque town and easy to visit on a daytrip. We were there on a market day and the lower town was busy. After walking through the commercial area, we found ourselves at the foot of a pretty steep hill and decided to walk up to the upper town. Quite challenging for me! Once at the top, walking around was easy. We had lunch in one of the little crêpe places and just wandered taking pictures until we arrived at the Tourist Office. Nearby is a bus stop where you can get a bus back down to the station. If I had planned better, I would have reversed the order and taken a bus from the station to the Tourist Office in the upper town, then either walk down or take the bus again to visit the lower town. Hindsight is 20/20!

Have you seen this great report from kerouac?
Provins as a day trip from Paris

Other favorite daytrips for us were to Auvers-sur-Oise for the Van Gogh sites and to Chartres for the cathedral and the older part of the town along the river.

Diane

MaineGG, thanks for the information on your visit to Provins, as well as the link to kerouac's report. Very helpful!

bakerstreet

A few years ago we took a trip that included a few days staying in Bellagio, with two couples and our daughters in their 20s. We had hired a guide through a very good company (IC Bellagio -- I highly recommend it) and though it was expensive we found it very much worth the cost. The guide arrived in a nice boat with a captain and we spent the day on Lake Como, going from one great spot to another. the guide disembarked at each location with us, showing us and teaching us so much more about the towns and the area that we otherwise would not have known or seen.

Among our meals at Lake Como, the one that stands out in memory was on an island that serves groups at tables outside, under the trees by the water. The views and ambiance are lovely. The food is simple, but fresh; not a "foodie" experience, just bowls of simple things like cooked carrots and fresh fish -- maybe 10 things -- passed around family style. There is a cheesy "story" performed toward the end that, if I remember right, involves the history of the island, and it is not a fine dining experience and would disappoint if that were the expectation, but we found it to be a delightful afternoon on the lake and we all, including the girls, enjoyed it very much. It lasts several hours, and being outside on the lake on that beautiful day was a perfect way to enjoy Lake Como.

I think it was called Locanda dell Isola Comacina.

Diane

Bakerstreet,
Thanks for the recommendations! I'll check them both out!
For the special meal on the island, sounds wonderful if the weather cooperates. Do you know if there is an indoor option if the weather is rainy?

frenchaucoeur

You might take a look at Vaux-le-Vicomte, far and away my favorite chateau in France. It's got a fascinating history, the most glorious gardens by Le Notre, and an interior that will fire your imagination.Vaux was a dress rehearsal for Versailles (the architect is Le Vau, who later worked on Versailles), but its scale is more manageable, and it has more true elegance.

If you're willing to rent a car or hire a driver, you can combine it with a stop at Provins. We did this and it worked out fine (we're very comfortable driving in France).

Or you can just take the train to Melun and then a taxi (or the shuttle bus if they're running it--Covid changed everything!) to the chateau.

Because we drove, I don't have the specifics on which train to take, but I'll bet it's on the website!

aliced

As to accommodations in Bellagio, do look at Hotel du Lac, directly on the lake, and 2 minute walk to ferry to other points on Lk Como or over to Lugano. It was ideal, and the restaurant and bar were very good (had a Manhattan there comparable to any bar in NYC!). Reasonable room rates, not luxurious, but we'd stay there again in a heartbeat.

Diane

frenchaucoeur, I've never been to Vaux-le-Vicomte - thanks for the suggestion. I may consider it as a second day trip in addition to Provins!

Diane

Aliced, thanks for the Hotel du Lac recommendation. We have our accommodations already in Bellagio but I will add the Hotel du Lac restaurant/bar to my list of places to eat or have a drink!

jan47ete

I was in provins in Nov. It was delightful, qauint, historic, walkable so please go, you won't be sorry.

Diane

Jan47ete - good to know that you enjoyed Provins. I'm looking forward to the visit and keeping my fingers crossed for good weather!

maitaitom

In 2016 we combined a day trip by bus from Paris to Vaux-le-Vicomte with Château de Fontainebleau. (report with plenty of photos in link below)

https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/cha...x-marveilleux/

In 2018, we spent three great days in Milan. Check out Chapters Two - Four on what we did in link below (also lots of photos). Be sure and get timed tickets for the Duomo rooftop (it is spectacular ... photo below). Have fun!
https://travelswithmaitaitom.com/italy-2018/

shelemm

Le Motel in Paris is a really good venue for indie music.

https://lemotel.fr/
.

Diane

Maitaitom, Thanks for the recommendations. Your trip reports are a joy to read and the photos of your time in MIlan and the Duomo rooftop are fantastic! I'll definitely be getting tickets to the rooftop.
Diane

Diane

shelemm,
Le Motel looks really interesting. I've added this to my list of possible places to visit in Paris. I think my daughters would enjoy it!

flygirl

I have been to Lake Como four times, the first visit in 2007 and the last visit in 2012. The link below is a thread I started where I would collect things I found to do...

I did a fair bit of research back then, which at the time most of the stuff you would find on the books was the basic stuff that was already fairly obvious. I wanted to dig and find things to do that weren't in the books, for example (which were mostly geared for people who stayed a few days, wanted to have a few nice meals, go shopping, ride the ferries, and move on).

On my last (fourth) trip I did a dawn walk up the mountain to a UNESCO World Heritage site - a nice and very interesting walk and quite easy from our hotel in Lenno. On one of our trips we did a seaplane ride. There are so many villas - try to see as many as you can. Our favorite little village was Lenno, and on two of our trips we stayed in Varenna high above the town in a nice little hotel called Eremo Gaudio. It is worth it to have a meal there, it is one of the highest hotel/restaurants on the lake with just stunning views.

We had a car on all of the visits. At times we took it out to explore, for example, there is a cycling museum high above Bellagio - maybe a 35 minute ride up the mountains? Gorgeous drive. Another time my Mom and I did an excursion which took us into a slice of Switzerland then up and over the mountains heading back down to the main road along the western side of the lake. On yet ANOTHER trip I had just picked up my new BMW in Munich and so we really saw a lot of mountain driving before getting to Lake Como.

I just remembered another tidbit - around this time I was entranced by the movie A Month by the Lake with Vanessa Redgrave (and Uma Thurman, Edward Fox, etc). There was a scene in the movie that I just had to find - it was driving me crazy, despite three visits I still had no clue exactly where it was. We had already seen so much of the lake area on our three visits (which were typically 5-6 days long for each visit) and I never came across it. Finally I managed to figure out where they filmed it and I found it near the end of our last visit. It was a vantage point I hadn't seen before, in a tiny little town that did not (at the time) seem to get a lot of tourist traffic - it seemed like the sort of place Germans/Swiss would rent their holiday homes for weeks/months and actually live there, not just dine and move on.

The link I wrote up:

Third time visitor to Lake Como seeks new things to do and see.