maitaitom

Now that I can walk (sort of), I start to need thinking about where in Lisbon to stay. Would appreciate your favorites. If possible, would like to make it $200 a night or cheaper, but could go a little more if you have a "special place." Thanks, now back to knee extensions.

EYWandBTV

maitaitom: bust your budget, let your last check bounce...and stay at the Memmo Alfama. But, as always, it depends on the kind of place you prefer. Here's a link to my recent TR for our first trip ever to Portugal (loved it)...a little about Memmo at the beginning and lots on Lisbon and Memmo at the end:

Trip Report: Sintra, Evora, and Lisbon late Oct-early Nov

Maribel

Our very special place: the Heritage Britânia, the Art Deco gem (designed in 1940) of the Heritage boutique group, on a quiet street just off the leafy Avenida da Liberdade and near a metro stop, taxi stand around the corner and easy walk down to Rossio square.

We love it because of the kindness/helpfulness of the staff, the plentiful breakfast buffet every morning included in our seniors' room rate, late afternoon/early evening tea spread with pastéis de nata, the complimentary carafe of port awaiting us in our very quiet room (along with tea/coffee making facilities, slippers, bathrobes, Moulton Brown toiletries) with its original cork floor, plus evening port or ginjinha in the British style library bar (barman also makes great gin tonics).
The English bar also serves a light sandwich menu at night for those who don't wish to go out. We like tiny Sr. Lisboa just down the street for updated traditional fare. The Britânia gets very solid reviews on Booking/ TA. It only has 32 rooms and feels somewhat like a private club. Lots of "old world charm".
It gets a loyal, repeat clientele.

That said....we usually stay in early November when rates drop dramatically. Our Golden Age (55+) rate last year was €140/night. Rates will be significantly higher, though, in September. I checked a few dates in early September and the Golden Age rate was 217 euros, but it does include breakfast & late afternoon tea and free entrance into 20 museums (you pay for admission, keep the tickets, turn them into the desk staff and get reimbursed.

The other member of the Lisbon Heritage group that we like is the Lisboa Plaza, just off the Avenida da Liberdade on the other side, slightly closer to the Baixa.

TPAYT

We had a very nice stay at The International Design Hotel on Rossio Square in Lisbon.
excellent location to walk to many sites.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Re..._Portugal.html

A modern property, comfortable beds, excellent breakfast, and again we liked walking out the door right onto the Square.

Rossio Square, Lisbon

MoBro

We loved the Hotel Avenida Palace. It's gorgeous. Most amazing breakfast/brunch in its classy dining room. Excellent customer service. Great location next to Rossio Station. Lending library of travel books.
Contact the hotel directly for the best price.
https://www.hotelavenidapalace.pt/
P.S. Be very careful on the slippery granite sidewalks of Lisbon.

danon

Lisbon is VERY hilly...the cobblestone streets can be slippery .
A comfortable pair of shoes is recommended.

maitaitom

"free entrance into 20 museums (you pay for admission, keep the tickets, turn them into the desk staff and get reimbursed."

Only 20 ... what will we do on the second day?

Thanks for info everyone. Maribel, any idea on which museums? I see they say the guide is at the desk. I'll try and google.

Maribel

Yes, mai tai, the wonderful front desk manager, Diogo Laranjo, gave me the list. No need to google
(*for me=special, *****=don't miss)

*****Calouste Gulbenkian. (one of the most exquisite museums on the Iberian peninsula)
*Casa-Museu Medeiros e Almeida (within easy walking distance in a lovely mansion, fantastic private collection, easy see)
Museu Antoniano
*Museu Arqueológico do Carmo
Museu da Água
Museu da Cidade
*Museu da Marinha (vast, fascinating history of the Portuguese maritime exploration, lots of ship models, in Belém)
Museu da Marioneta
*Museu das Artes Decorativas (lots of Indo-Portuguese furnishings, ceramics, but not as impressive to me as Medeiros e Almeida)
Museu de Ciència da Universidad de Lisboa
Museu do Chiado
Museu do Design e da Moda
*Museu do Fado e da Guitarra (if you like fado--like the great Amália; we recently saw Maritza and Ana Moura on tour)
*Museu Fundação Oriente
Museu Militar de Lisboa
Museu Nacional de Arqueología (attached to Jeronómios Monastery in Belém in the west wing--can purchase Jerónimos tickets at the booths or ticket machines there)
*Museu Nacional de Arte Antigua (in Santos--Portugal's National Gallery--gorgeous ceramics collection--nice café--takes time, very well worth the short taxi ride)
*****Museu Nacional do Azulejo (short taxi ride---extraordinary collection of 5 centuries of tile making---exquisite chapel--nice café-a "please don't miss!)
Museu Nacional do Traje

Note on list: "Please buy the tickets at museums and hand them to the Hotel reception staff to be reimbursed"

We just kept our tickets and gave them to Diogo upon checking out. Saved a surprising amount!
The Britânia also has a small lending library of travel books in the cozy British style library/lounge.
We've stayed there on our own, with friends (our version of your "Kim and Mary") and have sent friends there.

maitaitom

Thanks Maribel!!

Maribel

You're very welcome! I warned Inés and Erica at Quinta do Pego that the infamous CA gang of 4 was coming in September! They're prepared!

maitaitom

"I warned Inés and Erica at Quinta do Pego that the infamous CA gang of 4 was coming in September!"

Have them make sure the signal is working. I'd hate to drive Tracy, Mary and Kim off a cliff

Gwendolynn

The Gulbenkian should definitely be on your list.

Maribel

Hi maitai,
When we went up to Quinta do Pego to purchase wine and warn the lovely ladies of the "upcoming incoming", the traffic signal was working.
We have a good friend from Canada who's heading there about the same time as you, and we'll send Filipe Jesus an email to make sure it's still working for the gang of 4.

maitaitom

Gwen ... yes, on our list. Thanks.

Maribel ... Great news. We're there the first three nights of October, and just in case, I've been driving on the shoulder of all the roads to get ready. So excited about Portugal!

KarenWoo

Glad to hear the Gulbenkian is on your list. It is an amazing museum, and one of the highlights of our trip to Lisbon. We loved both the Founders Collection and the Modern Collection. I am not a fan of modern art, but the Modern Collection is very, very interesting and varied. Be sure to go downstairs to see a very informative historical collection, giving a historical timeline of Portugal, using photos and news articles. The Abolition of the Hood art piece is very eerie and spooky.

How long is your trip and where are you going? We only had time for Lisbon and Sintra, and would love to return to see more of Portugal. I am already looking forward to your trip report!!

If you are looking for restaurant tips, I can recommend the Time Out Market, Bonjardim Restaurante, and Cervejaria Ramiro (delicious fresh seafood), frequented by the late Anthony Bourdain.

Maribel

maitaitom,
Oops! I forgot that you were going in October rather than September. That will be an even better time to be in the Douro when it isn't so hot and not quite as busy.

In the Douro we can highly recommend a meal at the charming, cozy Tasca da Quinta in downtown Régua, on a pedestrian street right behind the Douro Museum, owned by the folks of the winery Quinta de Tourais. It's tiny (6 or 7 tables, seating about 25 diners), so one must reserve. It's comfort food at its finest in a whimsical, vintage setting (mismatched furniture, vintage radios, accordions on the wall).
You pick your wine from a large, old fashioned cabinet rather than from a formal wine list, and the owner, Guilherme, couldn't be nicer or more helpful. He takes a great deal of time with his guests to explain the menu actually hand written in a little notebook.

Incredibly delicious, updated trad cuisine prepared in a tiny open kitchen (pork shank and the homemade desserts, like the apple tart, are outstanding). It was a new one for us, as we usually have lunch at Castas e Pratos in a stylishly reconverted former rail warehouse, but we lucked out because it was a Saturday. During the week it only opens for dinner. We reserved 2 days ahead in Nov.
Because we complimented Guilherme on his uncle's wines (Fernando Coelho, the winemaker at Quinta do Tourais), he arranged for his uncle to meet us and give us a complimentary quick tour of the ancient stone lagares and a tasting in the shop after lunch (5-min. drive across the river in Cambres, next to Quinta da Pacheca). His small production red Miura, is outstanding.

Ditto to Ramiro in Lisbon (one can reserve by email and not have to stand in line). Because the Time Out Market was a mob scene, we took refuge upstairs for a more relaxed, quiet sit down meal at Pap'Açorda.
https://www.timeoutmarket.com/lisboa...k/papa-acorda/

Another recent discovery: Restaurante Prado, a contemporary farm-to-table (housed in a reconverted factory), rated #5 in Portugal by the leading gastro blog, Mesa Marcada. It's near the Cathedral, moderately priced. Cool design and excellent small plates.
https://www.wallpaper.com/travel/ger...ch/hotels/purs

maitaitom

Maribel, should we ever meet, I'm buying you the best dinner! Thanks for everything.

OK, I made a decision n Lisbon. As our leader on this one (Mary's a tough act to follow after her great Canadian lodging choices), I decided on Altis Prata hotel. It's in our price range (as a semi-retired guy I'm trying to stay within means ... saving more money for vino). It's at Rua da Prata, 199. Our hotels are usually just a place to sleep and get changed and this looked good (also has a kitchenette and we can do some laundry so don't have to pack as much). Our only exception on this trip is Quinta do Pego (letting the group relax a bit before our last few days in Porto ... looks like a great place to unwind ... except for my driving). Hope I made a good choice in Lisbon. We shall see.

Trip is now:
London - 2 nights
Lisbon - 5 nights
Sintra - 3 nights
Tomar - 2 nights
Somewhere between Tomar & Douro Valley - 1 night
Douro Valley - 3 nights
Porto - 3 nights
Train to Lisbon ... stay near airport - 1 night
Head back home to relax and plan trip to Southern Italy or Norway (or both)

Maribel

maitaitom,
We'll definitely meet some day for dinner. I have Pasadena on my "must do" list!

I like the Altis group...I only personally have experienced the Altis Belém, but the Altis Prata has an easier location for those who have had knee surgery, right in the heart of the flat Baixa. It's around the corner from the Brown's, which I was going to recommend. I've hesitated about staying in the Alfama because of the constant climbing entailed, although it makes for a good cardio vascular workout.

Good idea to have plenty of time for Sintra and the coast (Cascais/Estoril) because it's a mad house these days with all the bus tours, traffic restrictions, huge crowds, even in October. We've used the very pretty Casa Miradouro guest house there, and friends, a family of 5, have used the Be Guest Sintra living apartments for the laundry/kitchen, which is near the rail station where private vehicles can still park (private vehicle traffic is now prohibited in the historical center and on the road to Pena Palace/Moors Castle).

In Tomar for kitchen and laundry, you might like the Flattered to be in Tomar apartments. We stayed at the Hotel Templarios (my friend the polar bear, my "Mary", needed a pool) but I like the Flattered group.

Between Tomar and Douro Valley I would choose either historic Coimbra (closer to Tomar) for the University, the wonderful, newly expanded Museu Machado de Castro and Roman ruins & Roman museum of Conímbriga, or the very attractive & prosperous Viseu for one night. We stayed in Coimbra but stopped at the Pousada in Viseu for a walk around this lovely town before heading to Lamego and the Douro. We wanted to spend more time in Viseu.
https://juliedawnfox.com/things-to-do-coimbra/
https://juliedawnfox.com/see-and-do-viseu/


There are so very many lodging options in Porto..we just looked, believe it or not, at least a dozen brand new places (business hazard). The serviced apartments that I liked best are the Myo Design House ones on pedestrian Rua das Flores, an excellent location for touring this vertical city. This is where poster jpie will be staying.

Dining tip in Porto, similar in comfort food style as Tasca da Quinta: Tasca dos Mercadores in the Ribeira, wonderful food and wine, teeny, tiny place, moderate prices, must reserve, charming service, unforgettable cuisine.

Have fun planning!

xyz99

Maribel, I took lots and lots of notes, thank you!!!

maitaitom, we'll be on a very similar itinerary in September:
Lisbon - 4 n
Sintra - 3 n (with a day trip to Cascais and Cabo da Roca)
Obidos - 4 n (with day trips to Tomar and Berlenga island)
Coimbra - 3 n (with a day trip to Aveiro)
Douro Valley - 2 n
Guimaraes - 2 n (to avoid Porto parking for Guimaraes and Braga visits)
Porto - 3 n

Who would've thought that 3 weeks in Portugal will only scratch the surface? We're not even there yet and thinking of a 2nd trip...

Happy planning and I think I'll be stalking you here some more

lauramsgarden

We loved As Janeles Verdes - a little outside of the main squares, but really nice room, great rooftop view of the river, lovely staff and awesome room.