A Sicilian Postscript
Apr 16th, 2023, 09:37 AM
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A Sicilian Postscript
Nice, France
We arrived a few hours ago in Sicily for the third time since last May when we did a very lengthy trip report on a month there. You can find that report at:
Ultimate Month in Sicily
When we ended that trip report, we mentioned we had been invited back in the Fall to assist our cousins, whom we had met for the first time in May, in the harvest their of grapes in the shadow of the northern side of Mt. Etna. This report will include details of the fall trip, as well as a one-day return in January to taste the finished product (new wine). First, let us back up a couple of days and talk about getting to Sicily this time.
Airfares had gone up a lot since last year, so we booked Delta to Nice (they were giving deals on that route) and then the less expensive EasyJet route Nice to Rome, where we were leasing a new car for two months (much better than a rental plus a new car with a second driver and full insurance as an added bonus).
We didn’t plan on it, but we spent most of our first day at the striking Nice airport after watching the sun rise as we approached Cannes. Paris is burning, and travel has been compromised. Our plane was coming from there. We knew when cheapskate EasyJet started giving out food vouchers after the first three-hour delay that we might not see our connected flight that day. By the way, the Nice airport has some great food. We had a spinach ravioli at Jamie Oliver’s Italian place that was so good, we almost decided to get a second glass of wine and dessert. The big board continued to say our flight was delayed with no new time. But we went to the gate to discover that we were the last to board a plane that had snuck in. We are thinking others missed it. Earlier, we had made an expensive insurance payment to book a WizzAir flight for later, just in case. Fortunately, we got an email advising their flight was cancelled, so we are entitled to a refund.
We arrived a few hours ago in Sicily for the third time since last May when we did a very lengthy trip report on a month there. You can find that report at:
Ultimate Month in Sicily
When we ended that trip report, we mentioned we had been invited back in the Fall to assist our cousins, whom we had met for the first time in May, in the harvest their of grapes in the shadow of the northern side of Mt. Etna. This report will include details of the fall trip, as well as a one-day return in January to taste the finished product (new wine). First, let us back up a couple of days and talk about getting to Sicily this time.
Airfares had gone up a lot since last year, so we booked Delta to Nice (they were giving deals on that route) and then the less expensive EasyJet route Nice to Rome, where we were leasing a new car for two months (much better than a rental plus a new car with a second driver and full insurance as an added bonus).
We didn’t plan on it, but we spent most of our first day at the striking Nice airport after watching the sun rise as we approached Cannes. Paris is burning, and travel has been compromised. Our plane was coming from there. We knew when cheapskate EasyJet started giving out food vouchers after the first three-hour delay that we might not see our connected flight that day. By the way, the Nice airport has some great food. We had a spinach ravioli at Jamie Oliver’s Italian place that was so good, we almost decided to get a second glass of wine and dessert. The big board continued to say our flight was delayed with no new time. But we went to the gate to discover that we were the last to board a plane that had snuck in. We are thinking others missed it. Earlier, we had made an expensive insurance payment to book a WizzAir flight for later, just in case. Fortunately, we got an email advising their flight was cancelled, so we are entitled to a refund.
Apr 16th, 2023, 11:39 AM
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Castel San Giorgio
The only problem with our long delay in Nice is that, once we picked up our brand new Renault Dacia, we had to sit in Rome’s rush hours (and we mean hours).
We arrived much later to gracious hosts at our BnB in Castel San Giorgio, a few hours south of Rome. It’s not a normal tourist spot, but we had plans to try to get a certified copy of my Grandmother’s birth certificate early on Friday. My late father 20 years ago talked about the possibility of dual passports with Italy, but, at that time, you could only claim through a male line. My Grandfather had naturalized (and renounced his Italian citizenship) three years before my Dad was born. So, that meant we would never become Italian citizens by blood. Or so we thought. About a dozen years ago, Italian courts said it was unconstitutional to deny citizenship via women. We are still exploring, but we have two Italian lawyers who believe we now CAN get dual passports, since it appears my Grandmother never renounced her Italian citizenship. She, at the time, automatically became a US citizen by virtue of her husband’s naturalization (i.e. she never formally renounced Italy).
Our BnB hosts led the way to the local town office, where a clerk there pulled out an old book from 1895 off a shelf near her desk. She told us it would take an hour or so to prepare the document we needed. And, then she paused and asked us to wait in the lobby. In minutes, she handed us the certified copy with a big smile. And, no cost.
Maybe in a few years, instead of spending 90 out of 180 days in Europe, we can actually stay longer without worry.
On the way out of town, we saw the contrasts between two climates in southern Italy, a tropical one that, at least this year, has produced many trees really loaded with lemons and oranges; and a wintry one that was dropping new snow at the higher elevations just two days ago
.
We arrived much later to gracious hosts at our BnB in Castel San Giorgio, a few hours south of Rome. It’s not a normal tourist spot, but we had plans to try to get a certified copy of my Grandmother’s birth certificate early on Friday. My late father 20 years ago talked about the possibility of dual passports with Italy, but, at that time, you could only claim through a male line. My Grandfather had naturalized (and renounced his Italian citizenship) three years before my Dad was born. So, that meant we would never become Italian citizens by blood. Or so we thought. About a dozen years ago, Italian courts said it was unconstitutional to deny citizenship via women. We are still exploring, but we have two Italian lawyers who believe we now CAN get dual passports, since it appears my Grandmother never renounced her Italian citizenship. She, at the time, automatically became a US citizen by virtue of her husband’s naturalization (i.e. she never formally renounced Italy).
Our BnB hosts led the way to the local town office, where a clerk there pulled out an old book from 1895 off a shelf near her desk. She told us it would take an hour or so to prepare the document we needed. And, then she paused and asked us to wait in the lobby. In minutes, she handed us the certified copy with a big smile. And, no cost.
Maybe in a few years, instead of spending 90 out of 180 days in Europe, we can actually stay longer without worry.
On the way out of town, we saw the contrasts between two climates in southern Italy, a tropical one that, at least this year, has produced many trees really loaded with lemons and oranges; and a wintry one that was dropping new snow at the higher elevations just two days ago
.
Apr 16th, 2023, 01:42 PM
#3
Nice start, Whitehall, despite the problems in Nice - what a bonus to be able to get a certified copy of your grandmother's brith certificate in such a short time. A fellow student in the Italian course I attend here in Cornwall is in the process of trying to get Italian citizenship based on her father's birth in Sicily and the process so far has been tortuous. I wish you better luck.
Apr 16th, 2023, 03:21 PM
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Good luck with the citizenship. It took me about 10 years to confirm i was eligible, collect all the records needed from Italy and the US, get them translated, notarized, certified, and apostilled. Then came the hard part…. Getting an appointment with the Italian consulate covering my area. Fast forward to today… my citizenship application is now in the hands of the Italian government. They’ve said it could be until late 2024 until its finished.
If you need any detailed info or hints feel free to send me a private message.
If you need any detailed info or hints feel free to send me a private message.
Apr 17th, 2023, 12:17 AM
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Calabrian Coast
We drove a couple of hours through torrential rain, remembering what the guy from our car leasing center said about all the rain. “Sorry, but we need more” (due to the drought).
But, by the time, we reached the Calabrian coast, blue skies had broken through. We started in Pizzo, always on our list to explore. And, sadly still on that list. We just didn’t have time.
The storm that had passed through had kicked up winds that caused water to pound the coastline in spectacular fashion.
Soon, we spotted our next destination, the impressive Tropea.
But, by the time, we reached the Calabrian coast, blue skies had broken through. We started in Pizzo, always on our list to explore. And, sadly still on that list. We just didn’t have time.
The storm that had passed through had kicked up winds that caused water to pound the coastline in spectacular fashion.
Soon, we spotted our next destination, the impressive Tropea.
Apr 17th, 2023, 12:31 AM
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Nice start, Whitehall, despite the problems in Nice - what a bonus to be able to get a certified copy of your grandmother's brith certificate in such a short time. A fellow student in the Italian course I attend here in Cornwall is in the process of trying to get Italian citizenship based on her father's birth in Sicily and the process so far has been tortuous. I wish you better luck.
Good luck with the citizenship. It took me about 10 years to confirm i was eligible, collect all the records needed from Italy and the US, get them translated, notarized, certified, and apostilled. Then came the hard part…. Getting an appointment with the Italian consulate covering my area. Fast forward to today… my citizenship application is now in the hands of the Italian government. They’ve said it could be until late 2024 until its finished.
If you need any detailed info or hints feel free to send me a private message.
If you need any detailed info or hints feel free to send me a private message.
Apr 17th, 2023, 09:13 AM
#8
<<Until a few months ago, only the court in Rome has heard such cases, but now they must go through local courts. In some cases, once all the documents are collected, cases have been swift. But again not everywhere.>>
Whitehall, I think that the one thing you can rely upon is inconsistency. A friend [one time fodorite] who now has Italian citizenship by residence, seems to have had a relatively easy time, but she was on the spot and able to argue her case with the bureaucrats. It seems to be the documents which are the problems - different officials will ask for different ones and by the time you have complied the rules have changed or someone else has taken over your case. But at any rate you have made an auspicious start - good luck with the rest of the process.
Whitehall, I think that the one thing you can rely upon is inconsistency. A friend [one time fodorite] who now has Italian citizenship by residence, seems to have had a relatively easy time, but she was on the spot and able to argue her case with the bureaucrats. It seems to be the documents which are the problems - different officials will ask for different ones and by the time you have complied the rules have changed or someone else has taken over your case. But at any rate you have made an auspicious start - good luck with the rest of the process.
Apr 17th, 2023, 09:19 AM
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Tropea
One of our Covid cancellations was a trip to Calabria, and, a couple days ago, we had our brief chance to have a look. We spent this past Friday and Saturday in magnificent Tropea, with its clifftop old town. And, it has many specialties, including a unique variety of red onions that are so sweet, they can be used to make jam; and one gelato place even offers a red onion flavor. This area also offers a spreadable spicy sausage pate called Nduja that is slowly making its way onto menus of US restaurants. And, if you have a sweet tooth, they also offer a different take on gelato called Tartufo, cocoa covered multi-favored scoops of gelato with a gooey chocolate center.
Although the town is still getting ready for the upcoming summer season, many restaurants were open, and we had a tough time deciding. We were still a bit lagged from our trip, so we weren’t ready to test the tempting offerings in this obvious foodie town. There, in fact, were so many restaurants, we can only imagine the crush of summer business.
We settled for a little out of the way pizzeria that looked like the perfect place. And, it was. It is a tiny place (although there was a dining room, packed with locals, in the attached building next door), with one of three mammoth wood ovens fired up. And, the oven they normally use is so big that once it is fired up each year in January, the fire is kept going until October when they close for a couple months. It is a family business, with lots of family working, and kids coming in and out. This little spot was once a retail and wholesale baker, with all three ovens operating. Although the current family turned it into a pizzeria in 1935, they took a break in WWII to bake bread for the entire town, even allowing locals to bring their own bread dough, and even veggies to cook in the oven. One of the now elderly sons of this original operator was happy to show us around and tell us what we could understand with our limited Italian lessons on duolingo.
We tried the sausage, local onions and potatoes, quickly baked in the hot oven, with salad and a fresh puffy bread also from the oven. They cook pizza dough to make the bread and also cut it open, fill it with all sorts of stuff, put it back in the oven and call it their version of focaccia. We settled for their pizza as our second last course, followed by one of the best tiramisu dishes we have ever tasted.
Like many Italian towns, there are lots of churches and stories.
Down by the beach, below the beachfront cliffs, but up on its own seafront pedestal, is the Sanctuary of Santa Maria d’Isola, the symbol of the town. It has been there in one form or other for more than 1,000 years, but two major earthquakes in the last 200 years have caused major rebuilds. It was a former bishop’s home. The local legend is that a wooden Madonna washed ashore here, When they attempted to saw her legs to fit into a rock grotto, the carpenter was paralyzed and the mayor and bishop, were struck dead. And then there were miracles attributed to the Madonna. Every year, a Madonna (not sure what happened to the original one) is brought by boat and hoisted on the shoulders of locals who climb the steep steps.
The main Cathedral is named after the Blessed Virgin Mary of Romania, the country where the wooden Madonna came from. Prayer to this patron saint over the years, locals believed, wrought less damage from strong earthquakes and even protected them from Allied bombing in 1943. Two of those bombs did not explode and still sit in the back of the cathedral.
For many visitors, the beach below the cliffs is the big draw. Although we were there during exceptional high tides, the beach is wide and large, compared to many Italian beaches.
Although the town is still getting ready for the upcoming summer season, many restaurants were open, and we had a tough time deciding. We were still a bit lagged from our trip, so we weren’t ready to test the tempting offerings in this obvious foodie town. There, in fact, were so many restaurants, we can only imagine the crush of summer business.
We settled for a little out of the way pizzeria that looked like the perfect place. And, it was. It is a tiny place (although there was a dining room, packed with locals, in the attached building next door), with one of three mammoth wood ovens fired up. And, the oven they normally use is so big that once it is fired up each year in January, the fire is kept going until October when they close for a couple months. It is a family business, with lots of family working, and kids coming in and out. This little spot was once a retail and wholesale baker, with all three ovens operating. Although the current family turned it into a pizzeria in 1935, they took a break in WWII to bake bread for the entire town, even allowing locals to bring their own bread dough, and even veggies to cook in the oven. One of the now elderly sons of this original operator was happy to show us around and tell us what we could understand with our limited Italian lessons on duolingo.
We tried the sausage, local onions and potatoes, quickly baked in the hot oven, with salad and a fresh puffy bread also from the oven. They cook pizza dough to make the bread and also cut it open, fill it with all sorts of stuff, put it back in the oven and call it their version of focaccia. We settled for their pizza as our second last course, followed by one of the best tiramisu dishes we have ever tasted.
Like many Italian towns, there are lots of churches and stories.
Down by the beach, below the beachfront cliffs, but up on its own seafront pedestal, is the Sanctuary of Santa Maria d’Isola, the symbol of the town. It has been there in one form or other for more than 1,000 years, but two major earthquakes in the last 200 years have caused major rebuilds. It was a former bishop’s home. The local legend is that a wooden Madonna washed ashore here, When they attempted to saw her legs to fit into a rock grotto, the carpenter was paralyzed and the mayor and bishop, were struck dead. And then there were miracles attributed to the Madonna. Every year, a Madonna (not sure what happened to the original one) is brought by boat and hoisted on the shoulders of locals who climb the steep steps.
The main Cathedral is named after the Blessed Virgin Mary of Romania, the country where the wooden Madonna came from. Prayer to this patron saint over the years, locals believed, wrought less damage from strong earthquakes and even protected them from Allied bombing in 1943. Two of those bombs did not explode and still sit in the back of the cathedral.
For many visitors, the beach below the cliffs is the big draw. Although we were there during exceptional high tides, the beach is wide and large, compared to many Italian beaches.
Apr 17th, 2023, 09:29 AM
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<<Until a few months ago, only the court in Rome has heard such cases, but now they must go through local courts. In some cases, once all the documents are collected, cases have been swift. But again not everywhere.>>
Whitehall, I think that the one thing you can rely upon is inconsistency. A friend [one time fodorite] who now has Italian citizenship by residence, seems to have had a relatively easy time, but she was on the spot and able to argue her case with the bureaucrats. It seems to be the documents which are the problems - different officials will ask for different ones and by the time you have complied the rules have changed or someone else has taken over your case. But at any rate you have made an auspicious start - good luck with the rest of the process.
Whitehall, I think that the one thing you can rely upon is inconsistency. A friend [one time fodorite] who now has Italian citizenship by residence, seems to have had a relatively easy time, but she was on the spot and able to argue her case with the bureaucrats. It seems to be the documents which are the problems - different officials will ask for different ones and by the time you have complied the rules have changed or someone else has taken over your case. But at any rate you have made an auspicious start - good luck with the rest of the process.
Apr 17th, 2023, 02:32 PM
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I am glad you made it! We spent 5 days in Tropea last September, and of course, it was not enough. I wish I could bring the onion back to the US! I hope you will have enough time to go to Scilla with its breathtaking views. Enjoy!
Apr 17th, 2023, 03:09 PM
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Thanks ever so much for the report on Tropea. I've alwys been interested, due to the beauty shown in photos such as yours, but put off by the thought that this is a long way to travel to stay in a town dedicated to tourism; but your photos of the off/shoulder season have awakened new interest for me.
I've twice flown into Lamezia Terme, once as a departure point for Amantea and (turning away from the coast, to Castrovillari both in Calabria), and on to Maratea, Basilicata, where I enjoyed one of the best sea swims of my life.
Another trip, we flew into Lamezia and drove towards Bernalda, also in Basilicata. So I never did get to Tropea, nor to the Riviera del Cedro or the "hot red pepper" town of Diamante. I did read that Scalea, in Cozenza province, has become a big lure for UK expats drawn to the weather and decent prices.
One stretch that seems to never make into any trip report I've ever read here, and I do not think anywhere else online in English, is the eastern/southern coast of Italy's toe...Crotone, Catanzaro, etc. I became interested after reading Mark Rotella's book: STOLEN FIGS. Among the only in depth reports of travels in Calabria, in English. Available on Amazon. I've heard many times that development has been out of control along this coast, so that is probably why it is not much visited by foreigners save those in search of their "roots."
I'm devouring your reports and, especially your photos, of Sicily and now, Tropea..thanks so much for taking all the time to leave your mark here!!
We hope to spend most of May in Sicily, beginning in Trapani and traveling more or less in a clockwise direction...ending with Salina and Taormina.
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 17th, 2023 at 03:13 PM.
Apr 17th, 2023, 09:32 PM
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Yes. Scilla is another beauty. We will post that stop later today.
Apr 17th, 2023, 09:41 PM
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Thanks ever so much for the report on Tropea. I've alwys been interested, due to the beauty shown in photos such as yours, but put off by the thought that this is a long way to travel to stay in a town dedicated to tourism; but your photos of the off/shoulder season have awakened new interest for me.
I've twice flown into Lamezia Terme, once as a departure point for Amantea and (turning away from the coast, to Castrovillari both in Calabria), and on to Maratea, Basilicata, where I enjoyed one of the best sea swims of my life.
Another trip, we flew into Lamezia and drove towards Bernalda, also in Basilicata. So I never did get to Tropea, nor to the Riviera del Cedro or the "hot red pepper" town of Diamante. I did read that Scalea, in Cozenza province, has become a big lure for UK expats drawn to the weather and decent prices.
One stretch that seems to never make into any trip report I've ever read here, and I do not think anywhere else online in English, is the eastern/southern coast of Italy's toe...Crotone, Catanzaro, etc. I became interested after reading Mark Rotella's book: STOLEN FIGS. Among the only in depth reports of travels in Calabria, in English. Available on Amazon. I've heard many times that development has been out of control along this coast, so that is probably why it is not much visited by foreigners save those in search of their "roots."
I'm devouring your reports and, especially your photos, of Sicily and now, Tropea..thanks so much for taking all the time to leave your mark here!!
We hope to spend most of May in Sicily, beginning in Trapani and traveling more or less in a clockwise direction...ending with Salina and Taormina.
I've twice flown into Lamezia Terme, once as a departure point for Amantea and (turning away from the coast, to Castrovillari both in Calabria), and on to Maratea, Basilicata, where I enjoyed one of the best sea swims of my life.
Another trip, we flew into Lamezia and drove towards Bernalda, also in Basilicata. So I never did get to Tropea, nor to the Riviera del Cedro or the "hot red pepper" town of Diamante. I did read that Scalea, in Cozenza province, has become a big lure for UK expats drawn to the weather and decent prices.
One stretch that seems to never make into any trip report I've ever read here, and I do not think anywhere else online in English, is the eastern/southern coast of Italy's toe...Crotone, Catanzaro, etc. I became interested after reading Mark Rotella's book: STOLEN FIGS. Among the only in depth reports of travels in Calabria, in English. Available on Amazon. I've heard many times that development has been out of control along this coast, so that is probably why it is not much visited by foreigners save those in search of their "roots."
I'm devouring your reports and, especially your photos, of Sicily and now, Tropea..thanks so much for taking all the time to leave your mark here!!
We hope to spend most of May in Sicily, beginning in Trapani and traveling more or less in a clockwise direction...ending with Salina and Taormina.
If our report on our month of May in Sicily from last year is any indication, expect a gorgeous month. We were in Taormina for lunch yesterday, and the crowds already are back there. With some popular recent TV series and movies set in Sicily, this year is going to bring even larger crowds here.
Apr 18th, 2023, 12:29 AM
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On the Way to Scilla
We left Tropea on Sunday in heavy rain and thick fog. We eventually regretted taking the pot-hole filled slow coastal road, because the low clouds and fog left nothing to see. We did pass a massive port seemingly out in nowhere. There were so many containers, we thought we were in New Jersey. We checked, and the Gioia Tauro harbor is the largest port in Italy in terms of container shipments and one of the biggest in all of Europe.
It was designed as a way to create jobs and energize the economy in Calabria, but it soon became a base for Ndrangheta mafia operations and the main gateway for Columbian cocaine coming into Europe. Most of the references to these issues date back at least 5 or 10 years (when the FBI set down a Gambino family NYC connection to this place), so I’m not sure the current statu ; but, by this time, we were ready to get back on the autostrade. We went through one tunnel after another. We were joking that some were so long that maybe downpours on one side might yield to sunshine on the other side. And, then, miraculously, it did.
It was designed as a way to create jobs and energize the economy in Calabria, but it soon became a base for Ndrangheta mafia operations and the main gateway for Columbian cocaine coming into Europe. Most of the references to these issues date back at least 5 or 10 years (when the FBI set down a Gambino family NYC connection to this place), so I’m not sure the current statu ; but, by this time, we were ready to get back on the autostrade. We went through one tunnel after another. We were joking that some were so long that maybe downpours on one side might yield to sunshine on the other side. And, then, miraculously, it did.
Apr 18th, 2023, 12:33 AM
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Live from Sicily
This report is a few days behind and eventually I will go back to last fall and winter, but I felt a need to go live for just one photo of Mt. Etna this morning, from Giardini Naxos, with what looks like a new coat of snow.
Apr 18th, 2023, 04:07 AM
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Scilla
Scilla (sounds like shee-la) is just across the strait of Messina and Sicily and offered a great view of the smoke belching volcanic island of Stromboli.
Unlike Tropea, Scilla did not seem as touristy, although the town’s Marina Grande Beach and promenade undoubtedly will be packed with tourists for the summer.
The old town itself had a more residential feel. We hardly saw any commercial activity, and all the restaurants, most closed now, are in the beach area. Swordfish is their main offering.
The Ruffo castle provides a dramatic cliff-like presence and much of the town’s history. It has had an active history as a fortress dating back to hundreds of years BC. But, with many attacks and multiple damaging earthquakes, it has been rebuilt many times. It was a private home in the 1500’s and a youth hostel in more recent years. Now, it’s a cultural center.
After the skies cleared on Sunday, the main square was busy, with mostly local men. The adjacent coffee shop was also busy, and we took advantage of our second sugary breakfast of the morning. Hot chocolates, mineral water and cannolis, all for 7 euro.
We did run into a young woman, who waved to us from the castle ramparts. She sat next to us for dinner at a Tropea pizzeria, 90 minutes north, the night before. She is from Mexico and is an interior design intern in Rome. She speaks fluent Spanish, English and Italian, and we were envious.
Unlike Tropea, Scilla did not seem as touristy, although the town’s Marina Grande Beach and promenade undoubtedly will be packed with tourists for the summer.
The old town itself had a more residential feel. We hardly saw any commercial activity, and all the restaurants, most closed now, are in the beach area. Swordfish is their main offering.
The Ruffo castle provides a dramatic cliff-like presence and much of the town’s history. It has had an active history as a fortress dating back to hundreds of years BC. But, with many attacks and multiple damaging earthquakes, it has been rebuilt many times. It was a private home in the 1500’s and a youth hostel in more recent years. Now, it’s a cultural center.
After the skies cleared on Sunday, the main square was busy, with mostly local men. The adjacent coffee shop was also busy, and we took advantage of our second sugary breakfast of the morning. Hot chocolates, mineral water and cannolis, all for 7 euro.
We did run into a young woman, who waved to us from the castle ramparts. She sat next to us for dinner at a Tropea pizzeria, 90 minutes north, the night before. She is from Mexico and is an interior design intern in Rome. She speaks fluent Spanish, English and Italian, and we were envious.
Apr 18th, 2023, 04:49 AM
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What a wonderful report and photos! We spent a week in Rome and a day in Florence back in the 1970's!!! We definitely want to return to Italy, and Sicily is on my list, along with the Amalfi Coast, Tuscany and Venice, and Lake Como. Will probably need to spend 2 months in Italy! So many places to see but not enough time. Will enjoy your TR and photos in the meantime!
Apr 18th, 2023, 06:39 AM
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What a wonderful report and photos! We spent a week in Rome and a day in Florence back in the 1970's!!! We definitely want to return to Italy, and Sicily is on my list, along with the Amalfi Coast, Tuscany and Venice, and Lake Como. Will probably need to spend 2 months in Italy! So many places to see but not enough time. Will enjoy your TR and photos in the meantime!
Hi KarenWoo! Two months!? I think we might extend that to 2 years! I keep returning to Italy and each time, I discover new regions and new places, some of which I'd never even heard of! For example, just before COVID, we spent 2 weeks in Le Marche and Abruzzo and had only time to cover a few of the more famous towns!! I do hope that you can return soon..you have a lot of catching up to do!!! Very best, ek.
As I mentioned, somewhere above, Whitehall deserves tremendous credit for compiling this report, and the previous one, and for the marvelous photos. I also love that he adds related non-travel tidbits, as in the N'Drangheta's involvement in the port. These are the types of things not often discussed in the average trip report (and this one is far from "average!")
I'm going to re-read STOLEN FIGS. And if anyone has suggestions for personal accounts of traveling or living in Italy (in English), I'd love to hear them...I adore reading these types of books!
One I just found in the library (not the memoir-type book I asked about, above, but interesting, is ALWAYS ITALY by Frances Mayes, of UNDER THE TUSCAN SUN fame, and Ondine Cohane, who often writes about Italy for the NYTimes. This book (published a few years ago but new to me) touches on all of the regions of the country and has excellent photos and some good tips about the various destinations, with lots of food and wine information. IT's not exactly filled with tips on finding out-of-the way restaurants, for example; she covers most of the more tried and true and often, on the high side, price-wise. But it's very worthwhile borrowing from the library, if not for buying. The one to buy in my opinion, is the Fred Plotkin guide to food in Italy. I wish he would update it, though. Please recommend..I'm always looking for books about traveling or living in Italy (or Spain).
STOLEN FIGS
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 18th, 2023 at 06:41 AM.
