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2 weeks circuit in Sicily with a 6 year old

2 weeks circuit in Sicily with a 6 year old

Old Aug 14th, 2022, 04:45 PM
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2 weeks circuit in Sicily with a 6 year old

Sicily Itinerary

My husband, 6 year old son, and I recently returned from a 2+ week trip of Sicily. Our focus was primarily archeologic sites (my husband is a classicist) and historical sites with sides of food and beaches. We started in Catania, rented a car, and drove counterclockwise around the island, ending in Palermo. My husband is hardly a shy driver—we live outside Boston and he’s driven in many cities people say are “crazy” to drive in such as Athens and Rome—and Sicilian roads, even in the cities and small towns presented no problems for us at all. In fact, we felt that the drivers, while aggressive, were actually more polite and orderly than those in Boston by a longshot!

We overall really enjoyed Sicily and many of the sites are breathtaking. What makes Sicily so interesting is its history of conquest being smack in the Meditteranean: Greeks, Romans, Carthaginians, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans. We went to a variety of beaches, some of which were lovely and uncrowded and others packed in like sardines. We did not care for the constant petty grift; a restauranteur overcharging us by 20 euros, then making a big show of taking his glasses on and insisting that he read the bill at 80-something euros rather than 60-something euros, the folks who “help” you park on city streets and then expect a euro or two for their help and then “watch” the car, etc.

It was surprisingly not nearly as hot as we expected nor as hot as it was in mainland Italy at the same time; temps were low 30s Celsius and almost everywhere there was a pleasant breeze.

Except in Siracusa and Palermo, we chose to stay in agriturismos outside the cities and had good experiences. All of the hotels were booked as a triple room and had a bed for our son (often a divan style couch or fold out bed, but one spot had a loft accessed by a ladder which he loved) and plenty of space for all of us. We are not luxury travelers and generally prefer to spend ~$150 a night or so when we travel in Europe and tend to go for basic but friendly inns and the like; we are not a fan of corporate feeling or chain hotels.

We used the Rick Steves guidebook everywhere and essentially did his 2 week itinerary in reverse. We also had the Blue Guide which gave more detail on some off the beaten spots we randomly went to but it was largely unneccesary. We also always had swimsuits and towels in our car or daypack which was super handy and got lots of use!

Day 1

Arrive in Catania airport. We picked up our rental car from Centuro—easy pick up and great newer little car (Ford Puma) with just the right amount of space for us—though more on them at the end of this report. We drove to Catania with time enough to catch the end of the fish market. We had lunch at an outdoor restaurant next to the market as it was closing up, getting a fabulous grilled spigola. Then we walked around Catania for a little bit to see the buildings made from basalt. It was siesta time so pretty much everything was shut down, including the Duomo, but we enjoyed the piazza.

We hopped back to our rental car and went to our first hotel, Agriturismo San Cataldo way up in the mountains overlooking Mt Etna. This was definitely out of the way, at the end of a narrow switchback filled mountain road. It took about 12 minutes from the main road up the mountain to the hotel, so we definitely had drives everywhere from here. This was probably my son’s favorite spot that we stayed and was certainly great value. Super family friendly lots of families there from Malta when we were there. It was a working farm and he was able to milk the goats in the morning. They also had a few farm animals and a small playground and a lovely pool with stunning views. Each lodging was its own separate basic but good sized cabin facing Etna with a nice fence in front perfect for drying towels and swimsuits. Lots of kids and they would all play in a pack during dinner. We got the half board plan and ate dinner every night there which was an abundant multicourse feast (a huge tray of appetizers, followed by pasta, meat, and then dessert). They would serve kids a separate plain or Bolognese pasta and always made sure to bring that out first (our adventurous eater chose to eat what we had). Breakfast was much more basic, but was full of many different sweets and some amazing fruit from the farm.

Day 2

Day trip to Taormina, 45 min drive. Taormina is a beautiful spot perched up on a seaside cliff, but felt very touristy to me and not in a charming way. It would probably be better at night after the daytrippers (like me!) leave. We walked through town, especially enjoying the small theater hidden behind the church. Grabbed some swordfish and arancino for lunch at a little stand before heading up to the Greco-Roman theatre. The view is amazing, but it’s used during the summer so the stage is covered with a wooden stage and seats with modern seats which takes away from the impact. We then took the cable car down to the water and went to the Isola Bella beach. Very rocky—must have water shoes!—and cold water here. Nice atmosphere but the worst beach to actually swim at on our trip. I had wanted to drive up to Castelmola or to the beach at Giardini Naxos but it was late and my son was tired and cranky, so we headed back to the agriturismo for some time in the pool before dinner.

Day 3

Day trip to Mt. Etna with Go-Etna. We did the half day tour which was fabulous. Great guide. We saw some of the lava flows, went through a lava flow “cave,” and did a long walk on a crater. At the end of the day we stopped at a rifugio where we were able to get some lunch and beverages. Highly recommend, but definitely bring snacks! We didn’t get to the rifugio until close to 2.

We had considered adding a wine tour to this day, but are glad that we didn’t as it would have been way too long a day. Instead, back to the hotel for swimming before dinner.

Day 4

Check out of hotel and drive to Siracusa, 1.5 hour drive. Before going to our hotel, we went to the Parco Archeologico Neapolis which was fascinating. Most famous is the large Greek theater there, but again, covered in wooden seats so not impressive despite its size. We found the Roman amphitheater much more interesting as well as the quarry area. Signage wasn’t fabulous; we were glad we had Rick Steves with us! Prior to entering, we had a fabulous lunch at the Teatro Greco Cafè at the back entrance. We then walked a few uninteresting city blocks to the modern Basilica of the Madonna delle Lacrime which rises above Siracusa. Definitely recommended as a quick side stop.

Then drove to the island of Ortigia and checked into our hotel for the next few nights, Hotel Henry House. This was a splurge was SO WORTH IT (plus with the euro essentially at parity, it felt like I was getting a 20% discount from the time we booked). This is a little boutique hotel at the end of the island with a fabulous terrace overlooking the bay where you can have cocktails and eat breakfast. The breakfast was amazing and abundant. Front desk staff gave us great dining suggestions. We were sad that we stayed only 2 nights. After having appertivos on the terrace, we caught sunset over the harbor and, even more stunningly, moonrise over the water on the quieter southeastern part of the island. Dinner was at a fabulous fish spot tucked in a small side street that was recommended by our hotel. The type of spot that is quintessentially Mediterranean to me. Loved it.

Day 5

Exploration of Ortigia, wandering the streets and the market (using Rick Steves as our guide). We went to Santa Lucia alla Badia on the Duomo piazza to see the Caravaggio Burial of St. Lucy but the painting has been moved and it’s unclear where it is. We wanted to get to the archeologic museum back on the mainland, so drove over there for a few hours (excellent, but a massive collection and could stand a lot of editing; of the three museums we went to, I’d skip this one unless you are super into archeology or will not be going to Agrigento and/or Palermo), then rushed back for a boat tour. It was super windy, so we stayed in the inner harbor. It was nice to be out on the water, but it wasn’t anything special. We did get to go under the bridges linking Ortigia to the mainland which involved everyone on the boat ducking which was fun. When we returned, we swam at the tiny little pocket beach near Arethusa Spring. The island of Ortigia has a number of other cool swimming areas all easily accessible on the east and southeast part of the island which we sadly didn’t make it to. Dinner was along the pedestrian mall on the island’s west side and while it was good for the sunset—what I wanted that night--and we had a great table because the hotel made us the reservation, it was only okay. We should have gone to the Ortigia Fish Bar instead (also recommended by our hotel).

Day 6

Last day in Siracusa (sob!). We loved it here and wished we had 2 more days! We went to the Duomo in the morning which was well worth the small cost of admission as you can see the history of the many manifestations of this building over the centuries—you should check out the exterior wall on the left side as you face the church where this is also apparent. Watch the short video showing them parading of the Santa Lucia sculpture through town if it’s playing in the rear of the church.

Into the car for a quick trip to Noto, 40 min drive. Noto as a town was “meh” though I understand why it’s on the tourist loop. The best thing that we did was have gelato and granita at Caffè Sicilia (featured on Chef’s Table) and go up to the roof at San Carlo al Corso. We wish we had more time for the Val di Noto in general. I would have loved to have checked out Ragusa and some of the smaller towns here, but we just couldn’t make it work. (The original plan was to do this day 5, but we were so charmed by Ortigia that we couldn’t leave and it was also nice not to have a driving day!)

From Noto, we drove inland to the Villa Romana di Casale, 2 hour drive. In my mind this is one of the top sites in Sicily. It’s a large Roman villa that was covered in a mudslide so has perfectly preserved mosaic floors. They are absolutely stunning, detailed, and SUPER extensive. We got there late in the day (around 4) which was PERFECT because we basically had the place to ourselves. There were maybe 10 other people there throughout our extensive visit. For a place heavily featured on the tour bus circuit, it was amazing to be essentially alone there and really be able to linger over all the details. Signage was excellent.

More driving, just over a hour, to land in our next agriturismo, Terre di Zaccanello near Agrigento. This is a Instagram style place. Our room was quite small but had a loft for our son. The grounds and the pool were very lovely and manicured. The owners were a little whifty/casual for us. We wanted to do an olive oil tasting of their products, but it never happened because though we had set something up one afternoon, they just weren’t around to do it. We let them know we had to check out early the night before our departure as we had a tour lined up, but at breakfast, there was no one to be seen. We were literally twiddling our thumbs anxiously for 30 minutes before someone showed up who then took her time about the check out (more grift and attempts to overcharge…and they DID charge us $65 euros for laundry service!) They made us a fabulous dinner one night which is not a usual thing. Though billed as “just something simple” it was not simple at all and after our overtired child fell asleep on the cough kmidway through and therefore stopped whining, it was lovely. We chose the spot because it was very convenient for Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples.

We drove up and over the hill to the village of Ralcalmeto for dinner at Il Carretto, a great place for steak (owned by a butcher) which also had excellent pizza. The village was celebrating a saint’s feast day, so there were lots of people out and lights everywhere which was fun.

Day 7

Quiet “rest” day. We had a private cooking class lined up with Annalisa Pompeo of goSicily. She was fabulous and great with our son. She was so gracious when we were running late as well. We stuffed cannoli, stopped in her uncle’s shop where my son was offered free gelato, and went to her home where, in her own kitchen (!) we made pasta, involtini di pesce spade (my son had requested something with fish and was thrilled by this), and candied almonds for dessert. It was not a cheap experience, but we all loved it. Afterward, back to the hotel where we swam, napped, and read before dinner at the hotel.

Day 8

Day trip to Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples, 15 min drive. Upon planning this trip, I thought that my son would be more engaged if we had tour guides. Mistake. He was way worth when he was with the guide than with us. And our tour guide here was not a good fit. She had an excellent knowledge base, but was super dry and didn’t really engage any of us—just the facts, ma’am. Pro tip: if your child is melting down in a museum, give him a camera or cell phone to take photos. He loved it. We started out at the museum which was small but wonderful and then went to the site. I’d recommend doing it this way because you can get a sense of the scale of the statues designed to support the roof of the temple to Zeus (Telamone dell'Olympeion) before you get there.

Then to the Valley of the Temples which can’t be missed. I’ve seen a lot of temples in my day and some of the ones here are showstoppers for sure.

We had a surprisingly good lunch at Trattoria dei Templi Ristorante. We ended up here because it was near the archeologic site and it was about 2 when we left there, when everything basically shuts totally down. So we saw an open restaurant and went for it. My fried shrimp were incredible. Fancier than we were expecting. Past Michelin stars, apparently!

Then it was beach time. My husband really wanted to go to Scala dei Turchi (white cliffs) in this region, so off we went. The rocky cliff area is off limits currently, but you can park up along the road (we ended up just beyond the allowable area so got a parking ticket which our next hotel had to help us pay because the online payment center gave us error message when we tried to use credit cards, so she paid with her personal bank account and we then reimbursed her directly) and walk down a bunch of steps. It’s a lovely beach with shallow warm water and some even warmer areas where the water would get trapped and hold in the heat.

I developed a migraine this night, so we had a quick take out meal from a nondescript spot in Ralcalmeto.

Day 9

Disaster of a morning (see check out experience above, followed by my son vomiting in the car after watching his iPad and a sudden stop/acceleration by my husband who was trying to make up time to get us to our appointment), but we made it to Selinunte (1.5 hour drive) where our guide Mimmo Salvo graciously waited for us for about 45 minutes. He was fabulous and made this site come alive. It is only partially excavated and the Acropolis areas especially is a bit tricky to get your head around. The other temples are fun because you can walk inside Temple E and the massive remains of Temple G are something to behold all tumbled about. We also loved going off path with Mimmo for fresh raspberries and he showed us some caper bushes as well and explained how the capers grow and are harvested. Lunch at a small café right outside the site with fine panini.

We randomly stopped into the town of Mazara del Vallo (30 min) and wandered the harbor and streets of the Casbah district during the middle of the day during siesta, stumbling on a ornithology museum full of stuffed birds and a museum featuring a stunning dancing satyr statue fished up on a fishing boat. The North Africa feel of the western part of Sicily was much more apparent here than where we had been.

After a further hour long drive on sometimes sketchy quality and deserted tertiary roads through vineyards, we arrived at Agriturismo Don Carlo, which was a much more simple accommodation than the last two spots. My son and husband swam and I went to work cleaning up the clothing and other items from the vomit earlier in the day (I made my husband clean up the car). We had dinner at the hotel—3 courses, but much simpler than we had previously. We loved the ease of being able to eat in our accommodation since dinners in Sicily are late, usually 8 or 9 for a starting time!

Day 10

First stop was the Museo del Sale near Trapani. This area harvests salt from the sea and this museum was dedicated to the process. It’s small with just three rooms and a guided tour through them for everyone. Very worthwhile!

Then we were to Donnafugata in Marsala for a wine lunch. There was a tour, but I would so much rather just do my wine tasting. This is a big international brand and a slick process as a result but we had a dedicated guide for our family and she was excellent as was the wine.

From there we drove north and took a ferry to the island of Mozia/Motya where there was a Carthaginian settlement. This was the private archeologic project of an English exporter of Marsala wine, Joseph Whitaker and there’s a small museum here with many of his finds including the amazing marble statue, the Youth of Mozia. We walked a path on the island to the sacred pool with good views of the Egadi Islands. Pleasant overall, but unless you’re a real archeologic fan (we are and my husband and I probably could have wandered all the island pathways happily), you can probably skip this. There are boat tours around the island and of the lagoon that might be worthwhile.

Back to the hotel for dinner.

Day 11

We started our day exploring the town of Trapani, 20 minutes from our hotel. It didn’t have a ton to recommend it. The best thing there was the Chiesa del Purgatorio not because of the church, but because it houses a collection of life-sized statues depicting the passion and death of Christ. At Easter time they are carried in procession throughout the town. Each local trade group maintains and carries one of the statuary groupings.

From there we took the cable car up to the hilltop town of Erice. This was a very pleasant way to make the ascent and was faster than driving. Erice is a lovely, atmospheric, medieval town with stunning views. Great place for a wander, if touristy. Surprisingly good lunch meal at Il Rifugio di Enea where my son got the fish couscous this region is known for and I had a great seafood pasta dish.

We headed north (45 min) to the beach town of San Vito lo Capo. My husband made us stop along the way at the monument commemorating the spot where Anchises (Aeneas's father) was put ashore and buried after her died on the way to Italy following the Trojan War. This was essentially a deserted parking lot with an obiliesk. Do not go out of your way. My husband loved the whole thing. Sigh. The beach was super crowded when we got there around 4, but gradually emptied and we hand some lovely time there in the afternoon. A pizza for dinner just down the street from the beach—super crowded which you know means it’s good!—supplemented by some amazing fresh peaches and plums from the farmstand across the street and catching a sunset over the ocean with Erice looming up above made a lovely ending to the day. It was a quick 45 minutes back to our hotel.

Day 12

We checked out and went to the archeologic site of Segesta, 15 minutes. This was probably my favorite, even though it had only two parts: a temple and a theatre. The theatre was set perched up on the top of a hill with beautiful views and was left in its natural state—no modern seats—and was pretty stunning. You can probably do this site in a little more than an hour or so (depending on the timing of the shuttle bus up to the theatre) but it took us most of the morning because that’s how we ride.

Another beach side trip, this time to Castellammare del Golfo, about 20 minutes. I had originally wanted to go to the Zingaro Nature Preserve from there, but we scrapped that plan and just sat on the beach and swam. The beach entry was a little rocky, but this was our favorite beach—parking was easy, it was basically empty, and the water was clear and lovely. Fabulous. Very cute town too!

Then it was off to city life in Palermo, 1 hour away. We checked into our hotel, Hotel Politeama. Our room was gigantic and the hotel was perfectly located just on the edge of the pedestrian district. Not much character, because it is a big city hotel, but I would still recommend and it was a great deal. We joined in the passagiata after showering and found a place just off Via Ruggiero Settimo for dinner that clearly catered to tourists, but food was fine.

Day 13

We had a walking tour of Palermo this day. Our guide Cetty Spoto was excellent though our son was melting down constantly. She took us Theatro Massimo, then to the to the Mercado del Capo, and the major sites (like the Duomo) . It was a bit of a whirlwind tour for sure. One of my favorite spots which would not have been on my list was the Chiesa Del Gesu, heavily and ornately decorated in Baroque style. We also got a peak into a back room at the workshop of Angela Tripi where there is an amazing extensive Nativity. We also loved the church of Martorana with beautiful Byzantine mosaics.

After recharging with a light lunch and gelato at Casa Stagnitta, we went to the Church and Monastery of Santa Caterina d'Alessandria. Mostly we were interested in going up to the roof which was a great way to experience the bird’s eye view of the city. There are many places in the city you can do this, but our guide had recommended this one. There’s also a dolce shop here dating back from the time when the cloistered nuns would make candies to support themselves.

We went back to the hotel for a rest, after a second gelato of the day—and shower and then headed out for appertivo hour. We LOVED doing this in Palermo. Buy a drink at a café and you get some snacks, often quite heavy ones! We ended up at Enoteca Butticè which was full of locals and had a great time. Dinner was at I Sapori del Mare (lots of seafood on this trip as my son is a fish loving monster!) which was good but not a standout.

Day 14

We started the day in the fantastic Salinas Regional Archaeology Museum of Palermo which is considered the most important museum in Sicily. This holds the finds from Selinunte and is impressive to say the least, especially for a relatively small museum (only the first floor is currently open). Signage is dry but very informative.

We went to the Vuccario street market for lunch. All the food vendors are in one piazza. I was dying to try manga e bevi which may be one of the best things I’ve eaten in my life. Thin strips of fatty bacon wrapped around scallions and then grilled—heavenly. My husband had the stigghiola (grilled lamb intestines wrapped around a stick) which tasted okay but was chewy and not nearly as good as my mangio e bevi. We also had panelle (chickpea fritters) and crocche (potato fritters) which were delicious. We had previously had sfincione (something between pizza and bread) which was also a good snack.

After a quick stop at the creepy Capuchin crypt—a must only if you’re into old bodies—we drove up to Monreale, 20 min, to go to the cathedral. Monreale Cathedral is incredibly impressive and a must visit stop in Sicily. It’s one of the most impressive churches I’ve visited in my life. The mosaics are simply stunning and it’s fun to “read” the Bible stories on the walls. Again, we were there in the late afternoon and though there were some tourists, it was pretty empty. There was also a wedding that started while we were there which was fun. We also really enjoyed the visit to the Benedictine cloisters to see the impressive carvings on the columns there (though the garden needs upkeep).

Dinner was at a very nondescript pizza spot near the archeologic museum which I wouldn’t recommended. We were lured by the smell of grilled meat and though the restaurant we were at proclaimed “kebob” on their sign, it was actually available at the restaurant next door. Sad.

Day 15

Last day. We drove out of town to Cefalu for a day trip to the beach, 1 hour away. We had a quick lunch at one of the restaurants along the beach, then enjoyed the water. Beautiful beach, water, and setting as the town is perched waterside and the mountain La Rocca rises above it but another one that was super crowded. Our original plan was to rent chairs for the day, but we were turned away (with claims that the chairs were all full—they were not). After a few hours on the beach, we did a walking tour of town (highlights were the medieval laundry area which is fed by a natural spring and ) and ending at the Norman church famous for its mosaic Christ Pantocrator above the altar with the help of our guidebook and then headed back to Palermo. Cefalu was a charming city that would be lovely to overnight in. You can hike La Rocca up to ruins of the old wall and a Temple of Diana. Wish we had the time!

Dinner was at fish restaurant Osteria Mercede (reservations required, but a casual spot) which we loved. Changing menu on a chalkboard. We had crudo, fresh fish of the day, and linguine alle vongole and it was all amazing.

Palermo was fabulous. I wish we had been able to do a tour of the Teatro Masimo or see a performance there. If we had more time I would have gone to the Ballero market and pilgrimage church of Santuario di Santa Rosalia as well as spend some time at the waterfront.

Day 16

7 am early morning flight to Rome from Palermo airport (about 45 minutes out of town). Easy flight back to Rome and then on to Boston. We even arrived early!

Favorite hotel: Henry’s House in Ortigia

Favorite cities: Ortigia in Siracusa, Palermo, Cefalu

Favorite sites: Villa Romana di Casale, Segesta, Monreale Cathedral

Favorite restaurants: the random place in Catania’s fish market (possibly Osteria Antica Marina), Osteria Mercede in Palermo, street food in Palermo especially the mangia e bevi

Things we wanted to do but couldn’t make time for: wine tasting around Mt. Etna, the Aolian islands, the whole Val di Noto region (except Noto itself)
AlisaAAM is offline  
Old Aug 14th, 2022, 04:46 PM
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Sorry for the formatting wackiness! Font size and formatting was fine in my Word document.
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Old Aug 15th, 2022, 08:15 AM
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Thanks for posting this - I thoroughly enjoyed reading it. Sounds like a great trip, even with the hiccups.
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Old Aug 15th, 2022, 06:58 PM
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I have enjoyed reading your trip report. We had almost the same itinerary and loved Segesta and Ortigia the most of the places we visited.
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Old Aug 16th, 2022, 06:01 AM
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Wonderful trip report! We were in many of the places you were and enjoyed reading your experiences, especially with your son. He is awesome! Despite the occasional meltdown (who doesn’t melt down during a trip at times?), he sounds like a great traveler. And he eats fish, too! I’m impressed.
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Old Aug 20th, 2022, 10:44 AM
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Loved reading your TR and reliving some of our Sicilian experiences from 5 years ago through your eyes. We had only 10 days and therefore chose to concentrate on the east of the island so I am impressed that you managed to see so much in 2 weeks. Also a very good idea to stay in agriturismi with your son, who seems to have been a real star, BTW. We had slightly difference experiences from you - we seemed to hit the most difficult roads imaginable with pot holes and obstacles galore, not to mention the interminable switchbacks [you did well to miss Ragusa and Castelmola from that POV]. We were also lucky not to encounter so many scammers as you [or so we thought!] except ironically in the Duomo in Ortigia where the girl on the ticket office tried to give us change for a €10, when we had handed her a €20. It was on our first day and it put us on our guard for the rest of the trip which was probably a good thing! Like you we loved Ortigia and luckily we had 3 nights there which still wasn't enough but gave us a bit more time to explore and enjoy it. If you go again, especially with your son, I can thoroughly recommend the puppet theatre which uses marionettes to perform ancient stories of ladies, knights and villains. Great fun.

We also enjoyed the Villa Casale and spent 2 nights in a B&B in nearby Piazza Almerina [a medieval town and therefore a nice change from the Baroque of Ragusa, Modica and Noto] which gave us the chance to visit the two other attractions on the same ticket - a greco roman settlement at Morgantina and a rather quaint museum at Aidone.

Having read your report I should certainly like to explore the west of the island so thanks very much for all your info and tips, as well as a very entertaining TR.
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Old Sep 15th, 2022, 10:37 AM
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Sicily Bible

Alisa, thank you SO much for writing this trip report. I'm planning to visit Sicily in May of 2023, and I am going to use your glorious and informative report as my Bible for planning our trip! It's funny because I almost didn't read your piece as I thought the emphasis was going to be more on traveling with a 6-year-old. Your take on things and sense of humor are just my speed. I would like to say that I will play if forward by writing up my future trip report but know that it would be a poor facsimile of yours. Ciao!
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Old Sep 15th, 2022, 11:55 AM
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Brava, AlisaAAM! Super TR. How fun for your son to swim and milk goats. Monreale is an absolute must see. When you return, I hope you get to Ravenna....mosaics for comparison and mosaic art classes.

In terms of scams we had the exact opposite situation when I left my duffle bag on the bus from the Palermo airport. My toiletries and digital camera accessories were in it. It was turned in to the bus driver who took it to the bus office. Our hotel folks called a cabbie who knew just what to do to get the storage room unlocked. Nothing was missing. We ended up hiring the taxi driver for the rest of our few days there. Every Sicilian we met strenuously warned us about pick pockets in the Naples train station (our next stop after Siracusa). Naturally there were more police there than criminals. 😁

Thank you for sharing your wonderful trip.

Last edited by TDudette; Sep 15th, 2022 at 12:16 PM.
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