Egypt Trip Report-October 2021

Old Oct 27th, 2021, 07:42 AM
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Egypt Trip Report-October 2021

Pre-departure
We planned this trip on shorter notice than usual, six months really. Egypt had not even been at the top of my travel list, but in looking for an international trip, we decided to go since they had been open for tourism since July of 2020. This made it seem unlikely to us, that they would suddenly close their borders. We are fully vaccinated and don't mind complying with mask requirements or taking of Covid tests. We did have a considerable amount of stress in that Egypt required a QR code on our PCR test and it seemed that our town did not have a testing site that gave a QR code. On the day of departure, we got our test results and lo and behold, there was a QR code on the test. This is absolutely what was needed. Our vax cards were never asked for. We were good to go!
Other factors that played into our decision and a few people I would like to thank. Ellen (from the blog, Two Boomers Abroad), Valerie (from the Rick Steves travel forum, blog is Travels with Valerie), Marie (from Rick Steves forum) and Bettany Hughes (British historian whose show The Nile got us dreaming of cruising down the Nile on a dahabiya). These people made Egypt seem possible as I have to admit, this trip was a bit more intimidating for us. We had never been to a primarily Muslim country before.
We watched Death On The Nile, and watched 48 lectures on Ancient Egypt from the Great Courses, that we got from our library. This really did give us a solid foundation in our knowledge of Ancient Egypt.

Our tour company: Go Luxor Tours & Djed Egypt Travel
Sites and Activities
Accomodations
Food
Final Thoughts
Costs


Tour Company
Go Luxor Tours & Djed. I got three quotes from different Egyptian based companies. We knew we wanted a private tour, not on a bus with other tourists, although I did look at Odyssey's Unlimited and OAT. But, I wanted to customize our itinerary and choose the hotels. Plus, the tour companies all used the big Nile cruise boats and we wanted the dahabiya sailboat.
So we went with Go Luxor Tours and are so glad we did. Michael communicated with us via WhatsApp and responded always, within an hour. I got to wondering if he even slept, as I asked a lot of questions! We also talked via WhatsApp as well, and his English is perfect, no heavy accent. Each day we had a driver and Egyptologist/guide in a private vehicle with AC. During the course of our trip, we saw the big busses with tourists and almost felt sorry for them, as our vehicle was just a regular car and we were able to pull up to all the entrances of the sites and be dropped off.
Djed-We booked our dahabiya with Djed, as they own four boats and guarantee that the boat will sail, no minimum. If your booked, your going! We did have a hiccup with them. We had our guide confirm our pick up at our hotel, the day before. On the morning of pick up, they did not show up. After calling them, we found out they had picked up another couple at our hotel, who said they were sailing on a dahabiya. Well, this was the wrong couple! They were on a different boat. An hour late, we were finally picked up and taken to Esna, where we boarded our dahabiya, Zakrayaat. But first, we took a walk through the local market at Esna. I found this to be absolutely fascinating and kinda weird to see backpacks with Disney characters on them.

Sites and Activities
Giza


With limited time, we decided not to do Cairo with the exception of the Egyptian Museum. So after arrival we headed to Giza and the following morning saw the Pyramids of Giza. While it was incredible to see, my experience was marred a bit, by seeeing so many hard working, skinny horses, stray dogs etc. Now, I have been to third world countries before, so this was not entirely new to me, but seemed to effect my psyche more this time. It's hard being an animal lover in third world countries. I also think that because of Covid and the drop in tourism, that things are harder right now for people and the animals.
We choose not to go inside the pyramid or have a camel ride, but did have lunch at the new restaurant 9 Pyramids. This was incredible to have lunch in an open air restaurant with a fantastic view of the pyramids. The food was good too!

Saqqara, Dashur & Memphis
The next day we visited Saqqara, Dashur and Memphis all great sites which we enjoyed. We had a whole day for these sites, but choose not to enter any of the pyramids.

Luxor (East Bank)
Karnak & Luxor Temples

We flew from Cairo to Luxor and on our arrival were met and taken to Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple. Incredible places and Karnak was a highlight. Those columns!

Valley of the Kings (West Bank)
Three tombs are included with admission and lucky for us, were all close together as this place is huge and wow, the sun here was kicking our butt! No words for how incredible and amazing this place is. We paid extra to visit Ramses and this was so worth it.

Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Valley Of The Workers & Colossi of Memnon
All incredible sites. We especially loved the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and Valley of the Workers, where the workers who built the royal tombs lived with their families. They were not allowed to leave. Later, they ended up being some of the thieves who robbed the tombs.

Valley of the Queens: Tomb of Nefertari
Totally worth the $89 US dollars extra to enter this tomb. It is not to be believed that it is over 2,000 years old. Looks like it was painted yesterday! So glad we did this, as it was the best tomb of the whole trip. A must IMHO.

Valley of the Nobles & Medinut Habu Temple
Enjoyed touring these sites.

Abydos and Dendera
Abydos and Dendera are a 3 hour drive each way north of Luxor. Two of the best preserved temples in Egypt, although I was surprised to see that they had black soot covering the ceiling and some of the side walls. Apparently, people used to live in these temples and the soot is from the fires that they had. What was really interesting to me, was the drive there. Watching the local Egyptian people go about their daily life really is turning out to be one of my favorite things. We passed through several tourism police check points. At one of them, they decided we needed to have an escort. So they went ahead of us with lights flashing and I said to my husband, I'm not sure I feel safer with them escorting us. Seems to me, they are drawing more attention to us, that we are foreign tourists. Without an escort, we look just like any other car on the road. And then, they must have decided they had gone far enough, because they stopped our escort and we continued on our own. If you have an extra day, you should go to these temples.

Dahabiya
The dahabiya cruise was one of the highlights of the trip. I had never heard of a dahabiya before, but we watched a show with Bettany Hughes cruising the Nile, and we knew we wanted to do this as well. There are tons of Nile cruise boats, but they can carry 100+ people and are just big and ugly. The dahabiya we were on holds a maximum of 12 people. There were only four of us. My husband and I, and a young couple from Seattle (my hometown). We had eight crew for the four of us! I loved sailing the Nile on this boat and watching local life pass by on the banks of the Nile. We did Edfu temple and Kom Ombo temple as our morning shore excursions and then relaxed on the boat for the rest of the afternoon. We were even served tea in the late afternoon. The only bummer is the winds were not in our favor and so the sails never were unfurled. A tugboat pulls the boat if it is not able to sail. We departed the boat in Aswan after 4 nights.

Aswan-Philae Temple
This temple is just so beautiful and the last one built under the Ptolomies. I have to admit though, that I was starting to feel a bit of temple burn out.

Abu Simbel
A 3 1/2 hour drive each way, this was the site I was looking forward to the most. The road was good and the scenery of the passing desert, was so cool. We had left early in the am to try to beat the heat and the crowds. This site was so awesome. I took the time to just sit in the shade and stare at it, knowing I would never get here again.

Egyptian Museum
After Aswan, we flew back to Cairo and went to the Egyptian Museum. The largest collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts anywhere and after hearing about King Tut's treasures for so long, I finally got to see them in person. Our guide showed us the highlights and masterpieces. It is in quite a state right now, as many of the exhibits are in the process of being moved to the new Grand Egyptian Museum, not open yet.

Accomodations

Cairo/Giza

Steigenberger Pyramids Hotel
I had requested a room with a balcony and a view of the Pyramids and this is what we had. We love to have a balcony to enjoy our coffee in the am and our wine in the pm. The hotel was very nice, with a great breakfast buffet that was included in the price. I would recommend this place and stay here again. Just be advised there is nothing else restaurant wise in the area, so we had dinner both nights at the hotel, which was fine. We were here 3 nights.
Le Passage Hotel & Casino
We had a very early morning flight, so we had a few hours for a freshen up and nap at this hotel, but did not actually spend the night. It was fine.

Luxor

Hilton Resort
We had a basic room booked here, but when we arrived and saw our room, we decided to pay for an upgrade to get a balcony with a Nile view. Unfortunately, we checked in on a Thursday and this night they had a DJ blast music until late at night. Ugh, we like quiet, but I get that there is no nightlife in Luxor so the hotel tries to provide some entertainment for their guests. It's just that we go to bed early and don't really do "nightlife". Then, the following night on Friday they also had loud music blasting till late in the night! When I spoke to the front desk manager, she was very nice and so ended up only charging us for two nights for our upgraded balcony room. Still, I would not stay at this hotel on a Thursday or Friday if you want quiet, as they do these events every week. The following two nights were fine and we loved the view we had of the Valley of the Kings lit up at night! Fantastic! Also, watching the hot air balloons take off in the early am on the west bank (we are early risers) was fantastic as well. These two things made up for the noise issues we had. We stayed a total of 4 nights here. The included breakfast buffet was excellent!

Aswan

Old Cataract
We think this may very well be the nicest hotel we have ever stayed at and historic too! Winston Churchill, Agatha Christie and Princess Di have all stayed here and we enjoyed a tour of the hotel. We had a huge room with the most incredible bathroom and a large balcony with an amazing Nile view! We do like our creature comforts! We stayed 2 nights here.

Food
Having done my research, I knew that Egypt was not considered a culinary destination. We found this to be true. While we enjoyed some of the food, I was not interested in eating most of the meat, so I was stuck to a mostly vegetarian diet while there. The best food was while we were on the dahabiya sailboat. I loved koshary and tahini, the lentil soup, falafel and Baba ghanoush.
We also love our nightly happy hour with our glass of red wine and while we tried the Egyptian wine, we found it not to be to our palate. I had packed a few bottles from home and we enjoyed those, especially since we celebrated a wedding anniversary while there. We also splurged and bought one bottle of imported wine.
We did both experience a bit of "mummy tummy", with my husband a bit worse than me. We got a bit stricter with our diet, no uncooked produce, eating yogurt at breakfast, bottled water only, no juices, etc.

Final Thoughts
We had an incredible trip! Egypt is just a fascinating place and the ancient wonders are not to be missed. We always felt safe and Go Luxor Tours took excellent care of us. We don't speak Arabic, so having a guide to tell us the history of the sites and be an interpreter for us, was so worth it.
The heat, as expected, was a bit of a challenge for us, especially being Alaskans. That sun is no joke! However, I had my arsenal of tools to deal with it. Hat and sunglasses of course, but I had a small spray bottle and wow, this was so great to have. Just a spritz and instant cooling. I also wore a buff around my neck, which I would get wet whenever I could and that helped keep me cool. Even with all this though, I was mostly dripping sweat all the time and was glad I packed a different outfit for every day, it was that bad. We also found that after a day of touring in the hot sun, we needed a rest at our hotel and would often take a nap.

The culture of course, is quite different from USA. This is what makes it fascinating for me, but I have to say that I have no desire to live here, unlike some other places I have visited. I'm going to venture to guess, that there is not a large, or maybe even small, expat population here like there are in some European/Latin American countries. We did see tourists, mostly at the sites, not so much walking around. We did take a few walks on our own, but did not explore as much on our own as we have in other places. Not because we were afraid, but the chaotic traffic and crossing the street looked like a skill that we did not possess. My husband who is a traffic engineer had never seen anything like it before. The Egyptian people were warm and friendly and strangers said "Welcome to Egypt" to us.

Costs
We used miles for airfare.
Dahabiya was $1,800 total (included all food and entrance to sites).
$3,234pp for 14 night hotels, entrance to sites + Nefertari tomb, 2 internal flights, private car/driver/Egyptologist guide and two lunches and bottled water while touring.
$600-$800 approximately for miscellaneous cash for tipping, food, wine splurge, upgraded hotel room at Hilton

Bottom line; Get Yourself to Egypt!!
tammyvig2975 is offline  
Old Oct 30th, 2021, 02:46 PM
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Thank you so much for posting such an interesting and fascinating TR, Tammy. I've long wanted to go to Egypt but something has always come up to stop me going. I'd love to do a tour like yours but as a solo traveler I don't really fancy doing that sort of thing by myself. But you've certainly given me a lot to think about.
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 12th, 2022, 04:05 PM
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Just came across this. Sounds like a great trip and we enjoyed ours a couple of years ago immensely as well. We also used Djed for the dahabiya cruise and it was the highlight of our trip.
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Old Jan 17th, 2022, 09:32 PM
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It sounds like an awesome trip--one I would love to do.
From what you wrote, I was expecting a much higher price tag.
Thanks for sharing.
Songdoc is offline  
Old Jan 22nd, 2022, 07:54 AM
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Where did you get your covid test from?

Originally Posted by tammyvig2975 View Post
Pre-departure
We planned this trip on shorter notice than usual, six months really. Egypt had not even been at the top of my travel list, but in looking for an international trip, we decided to go since they had been open for tourism since July of 2020. This made it seem unlikely to us, that they would suddenly close their borders. We are fully vaccinated and don't mind complying with mask requirements or taking of Covid tests. We did have a considerable amount of stress in that Egypt required a QR code on our PCR test and it seemed that our town did not have a testing site that gave a QR code. On the day of departure, we got our test results and lo and behold, there was a QR code on the test. This is absolutely what was needed. Our vax cards were never asked for. We were good to go!
Other factors that played into our decision and a few people I would like to thank. Ellen (from the blog, Two Boomers Abroad), Valerie (from the Rick Steves travel forum, blog is Travels with Valerie), Marie (from Rick Steves forum) and Bettany Hughes (British historian whose show The Nile got us dreaming of cruising down the Nile on a dahabiya). These people made Egypt seem possible as I have to admit, this trip was a bit more intimidating for us. We had never been to a primarily Muslim country before.
We watched Death On The Nile, and watched 48 lectures on Ancient Egypt from the Great Courses, that we got from our library. This really did give us a solid foundation in our knowledge of Ancient Egypt.

Our tour company: Go Luxor Tours & Djed Egypt Travel
Sites and Activities
Accomodations
Food
Final Thoughts
Costs


Tour Company
Go Luxor Tours & Djed. I got three quotes from different Egyptian based companies. We knew we wanted a private tour, not on a bus with other tourists, although I did look at Odyssey's Unlimited and OAT. But, I wanted to customize our itinerary and choose the hotels. Plus, the tour companies all used the big Nile cruise boats and we wanted the dahabiya sailboat.
So we went with Go Luxor Tours and are so glad we did. Michael communicated with us via WhatsApp and responded always, within an hour. I got to wondering if he even slept, as I asked a lot of questions! We also talked via WhatsApp as well, and his English is perfect, no heavy accent. Each day we had a driver and Egyptologist/guide in a private vehicle with AC. During the course of our trip, we saw the big busses with tourists and almost felt sorry for them, as our vehicle was just a regular car and we were able to pull up to all the entrances of the sites and be dropped off.
Djed-We booked our dahabiya with Djed, as they own four boats and guarantee that the boat will sail, no minimum. If your booked, your going! We did have a hiccup with them. We had our guide confirm our pick up at our hotel, the day before. On the morning of pick up, they did not show up. After calling them, we found out they had picked up another couple at our hotel, who said they were sailing on a dahabiya. Well, this was the wrong couple! They were on a different boat. An hour late, we were finally picked up and taken to Esna, where we boarded our dahabiya, Zakrayaat. But first, we took a walk through the local market at Esna. I found this to be absolutely fascinating and kinda weird to see backpacks with Disney characters on them.

Sites and Activities
Giza


With limited time, we decided not to do Cairo with the exception of the Egyptian Museum. So after arrival we headed to Giza and the following morning saw the Pyramids of Giza. While it was incredible to see, my experience was marred a bit, by seeeing so many hard working, skinny horses, stray dogs etc. Now, I have been to third world countries before, so this was not entirely new to me, but seemed to effect my psyche more this time. It's hard being an animal lover in third world countries. I also think that because of Covid and the drop in tourism, that things are harder right now for people and the animals.
We choose not to go inside the pyramid or have a camel ride, but did have lunch at the new restaurant 9 Pyramids. This was incredible to have lunch in an open air restaurant with a fantastic view of the pyramids. The food was good too!

Saqqara, Dashur & Memphis
The next day we visited Saqqara, Dashur and Memphis all great sites which we enjoyed. We had a whole day for these sites, but choose not to enter any of the pyramids.

Luxor (East Bank)
Karnak & Luxor Temples

We flew from Cairo to Luxor and on our arrival were met and taken to Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple. Incredible places and Karnak was a highlight. Those columns!

Valley of the Kings (West Bank)
Three tombs are included with admission and lucky for us, were all close together as this place is huge and wow, the sun here was kicking our butt! No words for how incredible and amazing this place is. We paid extra to visit Ramses and this was so worth it.

Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Valley Of The Workers & Colossi of Memnon
All incredible sites. We especially loved the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut and Valley of the Workers, where the workers who built the royal tombs lived with their families. They were not allowed to leave. Later, they ended up being some of the thieves who robbed the tombs.

Valley of the Queens: Tomb of Nefertari
Totally worth the $89 US dollars extra to enter this tomb. It is not to be believed that it is over 2,000 years old. Looks like it was painted yesterday! So glad we did this, as it was the best tomb of the whole trip. A must IMHO.

Valley of the Nobles & Medinut Habu Temple
Enjoyed touring these sites.

Abydos and Dendera
Abydos and Dendera are a 3 hour drive each way north of Luxor. Two of the best preserved temples in Egypt, although I was surprised to see that they had black soot covering the ceiling and some of the side walls. Apparently, people used to live in these temples and the soot is from the fires that they had. What was really interesting to me, was the drive there. Watching the local Egyptian people go about their daily life really is turning out to be one of my favorite things. We passed through several tourism police check points. At one of them, they decided we needed to have an escort. So they went ahead of us with lights flashing and I said to my husband, I'm not sure I feel safer with them escorting us. Seems to me, they are drawing more attention to us, that we are foreign tourists. Without an escort, we look just like any other car on the road. And then, they must have decided they had gone far enough, because they stopped our escort and we continued on our own. If you have an extra day, you should go to these temples.

Dahabiya
The dahabiya cruise was one of the highlights of the trip. I had never heard of a dahabiya before, but we watched a show with Bettany Hughes cruising the Nile, and we knew we wanted to do this as well. There are tons of Nile cruise boats, but they can carry 100+ people and are just big and ugly. The dahabiya we were on holds a maximum of 12 people. There were only four of us. My husband and I, and a young couple from Seattle (my hometown). We had eight crew for the four of us! I loved sailing the Nile on this boat and watching local life pass by on the banks of the Nile. We did Edfu temple and Kom Ombo temple as our morning shore excursions and then relaxed on the boat for the rest of the afternoon. We were even served tea in the late afternoon. The only bummer is the winds were not in our favor and so the sails never were unfurled. A tugboat pulls the boat if it is not able to sail. We departed the boat in Aswan after 4 nights.

Aswan-Philae Temple
This temple is just so beautiful and the last one built under the Ptolomies. I have to admit though, that I was starting to feel a bit of temple burn out.

Abu Simbel
A 3 1/2 hour drive each way, this was the site I was looking forward to the most. The road was good and the scenery of the passing desert, was so cool. We had left early in the am to try to beat the heat and the crowds. This site was so awesome. I took the time to just sit in the shade and stare at it, knowing I would never get here again.

Egyptian Museum
After Aswan, we flew back to Cairo and went to the Egyptian Museum. The largest collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts anywhere and after hearing about King Tut's treasures for so long, I finally got to see them in person. Our guide showed us the highlights and masterpieces. It is in quite a state right now, as many of the exhibits are in the process of being moved to the new Grand Egyptian Museum, not open yet.

Accomodations

Cairo/Giza

Steigenberger Pyramids Hotel
I had requested a room with a balcony and a view of the Pyramids and this is what we had. We love to have a balcony to enjoy our coffee in the am and our wine in the pm. The hotel was very nice, with a great breakfast buffet that was included in the price. I would recommend this place and stay here again. Just be advised there is nothing else restaurant wise in the area, so we had dinner both nights at the hotel, which was fine. We were here 3 nights.
Le Passage Hotel & Casino
We had a very early morning flight, so we had a few hours for a freshen up and nap at this hotel, but did not actually spend the night. It was fine.

Luxor

Hilton Resort
We had a basic room booked here, but when we arrived and saw our room, we decided to pay for an upgrade to get a balcony with a Nile view. Unfortunately, we checked in on a Thursday and this night they had a DJ blast music until late at night. Ugh, we like quiet, but I get that there is no nightlife in Luxor so the hotel tries to provide some entertainment for their guests. It's just that we go to bed early and don't really do "nightlife". Then, the following night on Friday they also had loud music blasting till late in the night! When I spoke to the front desk manager, she was very nice and so ended up only charging us for two nights for our upgraded balcony room. Still, I would not stay at this hotel on a Thursday or Friday if you want quiet, as they do these events every week. The following two nights were fine and we loved the view we had of the Valley of the Kings lit up at night! Fantastic! Also, watching the hot air balloons take off in the early am on the west bank (we are early risers) was fantastic as well. These two things made up for the noise issues we had. We stayed a total of 4 nights here. The included breakfast buffet was excellent!

Aswan

Old Cataract
We think this may very well be the nicest hotel we have ever stayed at and historic too! Winston Churchill, Agatha Christie and Princess Di have all stayed here and we enjoyed a tour of the hotel. We had a huge room with the most incredible bathroom and a large balcony with an amazing Nile view! We do like our creature comforts! We stayed 2 nights here.

Food
Having done my research, I knew that Egypt was not considered a culinary destination. We found this to be true. While we enjoyed some of the food, I was not interested in eating most of the meat, so I was stuck to a mostly vegetarian diet while there. The best food was while we were on the dahabiya sailboat. I loved koshary and tahini, the lentil soup, falafel and Baba ghanoush.
We also love our nightly happy hour with our glass of red wine and while we tried the Egyptian wine, we found it not to be to our palate. I had packed a few bottles from home and we enjoyed those, especially since we celebrated a wedding anniversary while there. We also splurged and bought one bottle of imported wine.
We did both experience a bit of "mummy tummy", with my husband a bit worse than me. We got a bit stricter with our diet, no uncooked produce, eating yogurt at breakfast, bottled water only, no juices, etc.

Final Thoughts
We had an incredible trip! Egypt is just a fascinating place and the ancient wonders are not to be missed. We always felt safe and Go Luxor Tours took excellent care of us. We don't speak Arabic, so having a guide to tell us the history of the sites and be an interpreter for us, was so worth it.
The heat, as expected, was a bit of a challenge for us, especially being Alaskans. That sun is no joke! However, I had my arsenal of tools to deal with it. Hat and sunglasses of course, but I had a small spray bottle and wow, this was so great to have. Just a spritz and instant cooling. I also wore a buff around my neck, which I would get wet whenever I could and that helped keep me cool. Even with all this though, I was mostly dripping sweat all the time and was glad I packed a different outfit for every day, it was that bad. We also found that after a day of touring in the hot sun, we needed a rest at our hotel and would often take a nap.

The culture of course, is quite different from USA. This is what makes it fascinating for me, but I have to say that I have no desire to live here, unlike some other places I have visited. I'm going to venture to guess, that there is not a large, or maybe even small, expat population here like there are in some European/Latin American countries. We did see tourists, mostly at the sites, not so much walking around. We did take a few walks on our own, but did not explore as much on our own as we have in other places. Not because we were afraid, but the chaotic traffic and crossing the street looked like a skill that we did not possess. My husband who is a traffic engineer had never seen anything like it before. The Egyptian people were warm and friendly and strangers said "Welcome to Egypt" to us.

Costs
We used miles for airfare.
Dahabiya was $1,800 total (included all food and entrance to sites).
$3,234pp for 14 night hotels, entrance to sites + Nefertari tomb, 2 internal flights, private car/driver/Egyptologist guide and two lunches and bottled water while touring.
$600-$800 approximately for miscellaneous cash for tipping, food, wine splurge, upgraded hotel room at Hilton

Bottom line; Get Yourself to Egypt!!
Where did you get your covid test from that provided a QR code in their results?
tylerpansa0485 is offline  
Old Mar 25th, 2022, 03:01 PM
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Thanks for this great TR! I gather you recommend your travel company?
yestravel is offline  
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